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Found 2 results

  1. I need some advice on what further tests to do before I start disassembling the camshaft. The code is "1341 = Camshaft adjustment Bank 1 below limit value." But I think this is misleading. Normally , this would be just a failed Solenoid or Variocam actuator. Btw ,these comments apply equally to a Bank 2 fault. But if you look at the Durametric data below ,there is a hint of a cheaper but much more stupid error. I recently rebuilt the engine. It runs beautifully. But has only run a few hours because I can't get rid of the 11341 fault code to get a Smog Test. The Actual Values alone are clear but not when you look at the Deviation, not so much. All values are with a warmed up engine(fans kicked in several times) 1, Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 1, 0.3 to 0.8 deg. At 3000 rpm only 2 degrees ! Bank 1 solenoid measures 13 ohms(perfect) but will not activate with Durametric , nor with the Ahsai 12v battery test. 2. Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 2, 0.02- 0.2 deg . At 3000 rpm 20 degrees - perfect. Bank 2 solenoid can be activated by Durametric or by the external 12v source. 3, Deviation Position 1 at idle is 14.9 deg and stable - it should be +/- 6 deg ! 4. Deviation Position 2 at idle is zero and stable- 0.00 ,nada . Please check my logic/knowledge here because I need help. My theory is that I must have failed to time Bank 1 correctly. It is so far out that the Camshaft Advance will not activate ? The stable deviation is because of new chains,IMSB , chain rail pads and tensioners. So I need to re-time Bank 1. If it seems to be perfectly timed - look for a Camshaft Position Sensor problem ? I'll bench test Bank 1 Actuator to see if it has a firm 1/16" 'jump' .If it is doubtful I'll replace it because of the time involved. Fortunately I have the cam tools and Insite's helpful classic post on timing the M96. Before I start dismantling , what else to test? Maybe connect between the Bank 2 harness and Bank 1 to try to activate the camshaft advance (Jake Raby suggested this in a related Thread) I get no reading on the Multimeter when I connect to the Bank 1 harness but do get the correct voltage (10V) on Bank 2 . No, I did not connect to chassis ground(thanks Ahsai!) This is an interesting example of needing to use 2 different(but related) readings from Durametric to make an accurate(??) diagnosis. If I had just fitted a new Actuator +solenoid($1000 ! ) ,the basic fault may still be present.And I would have to repeat all that dismantling again ! So thanks for any suggestions of more diagnostic tests.
  2. Recently I replace the Variocam Ramps on my 2002 boxster S. Reassembly went well but I have a timing problem for the cams afterwards, trying to figure out the fix. Bank one at Idle actual cam angle is about 6, deviation is blank. Once the car warms up to 180, the actual angle goes to close to zero, and the deviation is about 5 to 6. Bank 2 is as you would expect, actual angle around zero at cold idle, deviation around zero at warm idle. My recollection is that before disassembly the Durametric showed that actual angle at idle when cold was close to zero On bank one. I read that actual angle may not represent what I think it does, I read somewhere that it represents the amount of Variocam influence on the cams, not the actual timing. Can someone possibly explain what the actual angle means? Bonus points if someone can explain to me what exactly is wrong with my car, my best guess is either I have a bad variocam actuator problem or I assembled things with intake cam one tooth off. Regards, silber
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