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far972

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About far972

  • Birthday 10/16/1972

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  • From
    Boston, MA
  • Porsche Club
    Other
  • Present cars
    2000 Boxster S, Chrysler 300M
  • Future cars
    Lexus IS350
  • Former cars
    Mazda MX6 V6

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  1. If you want to narrow things down a bit, make a direct copy of your CD and try the backup disc. During the backup process if your PC has trouble reading certain tracks (the ones that pop) it will either error out or really slow down during the rip. However, if the CD copies with no errors, pop it in your car and see if it pops in the same place. It really does sound like an amp/stereo problem, but maybe this will help you "prove it" to the dealer.
  2. By way of an update, I took a look at the engine on Friday figuring I would check out the throttle body, look for any obstructions, check for oil in the AOS line, etc. Before I had a chance to get too far into anything, I noticed that a hose clamp had been left untightened (by who I have no idea) on what I can only guess is some kind of vacuum line... after reseating the line/hose and tightening up the hose clamp, all was back to normal. A $0 and screwdriver fix!
  3. I actually ran out after I posted to read the codes, there are none. Car is a 2000 BoxsterS with 33K miles. I bought it early spring with 25K miles on it (yes I have been enjoying my summer =-) The previous owner obviously did not drive it all that much, 25K in 5+ years, and I have no idea how long it may have sat in a garage before I bought it.
  4. I've developed some major problems with my engine at idle and starting over the past few days and I'm hoping for some help in diagnosing... Here are the symptoms/history... Two months ago the car became difficult to start on every 4th or 5th attempt, felt like I had to give it gas to get it to turn over. Shortly after this started I get a CEL that was MAF related, I don't remember the code. After I replaced the MAF the CEL went away, the engine ran smoother, accelerated better, etc, however I still had the hard starting problem. This lasted for about three weeks. Last week when trying to start the car, I got a pop/backfire and smoke for about 10 seconds. No CEL. Last Friday I changed the oil and filter, it wasn't low, and then added a bottle of techron to an empty tank trying to deal with the hard starting (cleaning the fuel injectors). The car ran fine all weekend up until last night. At this point I was running on fumes, the last of the tank with the techron additive and as I pulled into the gas station the car started to sputter and seemed like it was about to stall. I figure, "Eh, I was just running the tank dry" I figured wrong, now the car does not want to idle at all, RPM's are super low, and giving it gas causes some shuddering and a few pops... When I come to a stop I need to over rev the engine to prevent it from stalling, which it has done a few times already. Still no CEL I am thinking I wanted to change the AOS/sparks/fuel filter as I am sure I could use all three, but I am not sure what the culprit may be... Any words of advice/insight appreciated.
  5. I hope and pray that is all it was ;-) The only question I have about that is that the backfire came from the passenger side vent, the airbox is on the drivers side, where the actual intake is.
  6. When I started my car this afternoon I heard a fairly loud pop and white smoke poured out of the passenger side vent/intake for about 20 seconds. After the smoke was gone I tried to start it again, and it fired up and is driving normaly. However I am worried that the head gasket may have gone, or worse a cylinder problem. Has anyone had this happen before, or do they have any idea what that problem may be? FYI the engine temp is normal and it "seems" to be driving as normal. TIA, ~Mike
  7. What you *might* try is removing the translator from the mix for testing, and creating your own RCA inputs by cutting a set of RCA cables in half, then splicing them onto the stock amp inputs. If you still get the same level of feedback, then it has to be a problem with where you ran your power/ground to the amp, poorly shielded RCA's, or something to that effect... this seems like it might be the problem as once you added another 12v power draw with the radar detector and the problem got worse. On the other hand, if it goes away, you know it is the translator. It's a cheap and fairly quick test and it will narrow down your problem.
  8. Yesterday while I was driving home the drivers side wiper stopped working, luckily the passengers side wiper clear enough of a view for me to get home semi-safely... Has anyone had this issue before? Are the two arms on seperate motors/servo's? Or might it be a simpler repair... TIA
  9. Hi All, I am preparing to upgrade the factory system in my Boxster, I already installed new speakers in the front, as well as a new head unit. My car came with the factory amplifier mounted in the front trunk and my hope is to tie into the factory speaker wiring that runs from it. I read on a few boards that this will save a lot of headache as opposed to running new wiring, especially to the doors. Has anyone ever done this? Any tips or gotchas to look out for? What about the power and ground connections to the aftermarket amp, is it a straight forward install? TIA ~Mike
  10. Ok I swear that I have little gremlins living under the seats in my Boxster that like to come out at night and set off my alarm. The thing is, there seems to be no rhyme or reason to the alarm going off. I have tried to reproduce the problem by setting the alarm then banging on the windows, to no avail. I know that there are some factory options you can set for the alarm, and I notice that the horn will beep when I set the alarm if I leave the arm rest console open. The thing is, I have tried locking it, or keeping it open, and still 3-4 times per week my alarm starts going off.... I am worried that one of these days I will park it for the weekend, the alarm will start going off, and it will drain my battery (is this even possible?) Any ideas?
  11. My gas gauge in my Boxster S seems to be the opposite, it moves up to 4/4 with no problems, but when it gets below half, the gauge seems to drop MUCH faster... probably just my perception as my miles per tank seems about right. As far as the slightly sluggish performance, you might want to look into cleaning your MAF. I would be surprised if it is already gone at 12K miles, but these things are very tempermental in the Boxsters. I noticed the same problem for a few weeks, and last weekend my CEL came on, the code points to the MAF. MAF problems can also cause a rough idle, as the air/fuel ratio is all wonked out... With a good OBD II reader, you can check the levels on the MAF, but the dealer should be able to do the same.
  12. How did you clean the MAF sensor? I just cleaned mine the other day, there is a post on it in the DIY forums for the Boxster, but all you really need is some electrical cleaner, CRC is the brand that most auto parts stores will sell.
  13. I don't know of one, but I'd like to find out as well, I am also in NE Mass. Not sure if Pass and Weisz in Burlington has a better reputation or not.
  14. Wow, thanks for the pics, that will help a ton! As far as mounting is concerned, I found that anyplace I put the S50 seemed to be in the way of something, or ran the risk of being knocked around by someones leg. So I actually mounted it inside the little compartment below the stereo, it completely obscures the mounting bracket, and only the S50 unit itself is exposed. I am planning on building a little plastic cover that I will use to cover the slot, cutting a small hole in it to allow the mounting arm to pass through. Finally I am planning to "hardwire" the S50 to a new accessory switch, I just need to find a good place to tap in for power... By the way, where are you in Boston Stumpjumper, and what color is your Boxster so I can wave when I see you ;-) Hmm... looks like you may have already done that looking at your mounting pic... how did you run the power?
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