Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

CV boots and rear brake shoe


Recommended Posts

Folks,

While the body shop is working on my 2000 Boxster S with 59,000 miles for the accident that happened last month, they found out the CV boots are bad on the driver's side and the rear brake pads are thin.

All 4 shocks had been removed already for the body repair, therefore, the CV joints are right there and only connecting with the transmission/engine at this moment.

Questions:

1) It looks pretty simple to remove the cv joints and intalled the new boots myself. I am planning to remove the 6 bolts that connection the transmission with the cv joints and put the new cv boots. Is there anything I should be aware? special tools? Please advise what to do.

2) Do I need to buy the shoes for the rear brake pads? No tracking or hard driving, 1st to change since new. 59,000 miles.

Thank you for reading.

Edited by Crystal Shine
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replacing the CV boots is not a terrible job, but messy, and involves disassembling the CV joint, cleaning it, and repacking. The only special tools would be a set of cv boot pliers (for re-fitting the boot clamps) and whatever special bit is required to fit the cv joint bolts (can't remember the shape, off the top of my head). There are at least 2 decent sets of instructions for rebuilding cv joints available online...

But maybe you can clear something up for me - the car is still at the body shop? Are you able to work on it there? Because if you are, you'll need to figure out a way to counter-torque the axle when you're removing the cv joint bolts. If you're going to do this after you get the car back, then just be aware that getting the axle out is a little involved...

As for the "brake shoes" - do you mean for the parking brake? Unless I'm misunderstanding how the rear brakes work, you should only have to replace the pads.

Edited by sleepy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Replacing the CV boots is not a terrible job, but messy, and involves disassembling the CV joint, cleaning it, and repacking. The only special tools would be a set of cv boot pliers (for re-fitting the boot clamps) and whatever special bit is required to fit the cv joint bolts (can't remember the shape, off the top of my head). There are at least 2 decent sets of instructions for rebuilding cv joints available online...

where can I find instructions on cv joint rebuilds?

thanks

Tommy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Volkswagen factory manuals have an excellent section on CV joint disassembly and boot replacement. It should be similar, if not identical, for the Porsche joints. I have been refurbishing the original joints on my 87 GLI for 240,000 miles. They go through front boots about every 100k, but sometimes I do them if I have the axel(s) out, even if they are good.

CV joints are self-correcting for wear. If you clean and replace boot soon after boot damage, and prevent galling from lack of grease, they can last for 00's of 000's of miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.