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Question re: Brake/Clutch Bleeding DIY

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The last couple of times I bled the clutch, I simply pumped up the Motive Power bleeder and opened the bleeder valve for a few seconds, just like the brakes. I'm now looking to do it the "right" way.

In the "Brake/Clutch Fluid Change and Bleeding Instructions" DIY, I'm a bit confused about the clutch bleeding sequence. IIUC, the clutch pedal is held down (with a piece of wood), the bleeder valve is opened for at least 30 seconds, the wood is removed, the pedal is pumped slowly for 60 seconds, pedal is left at the top of it's movement, wait 90 seconds, then close the bleeder valve, pull up the pedal, then pump slowly a few times.

Does the bleeder valve actually stay open during all the pumping and waiting? Is the the Motive Power bleeder supposed to stay pressurized during this entire process?


--- Tom

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  • 4 years later...

Hi Loren!

A month ago, the clutch master on my MY99 996 10Tmiles started leaking.

Since the Clutch Master Cylinder (996.423.171.06) & the Clutch Operating Cylinder (997.116.237.04) work hand in hand, i ordered & replaced both from the US.

Upon installation of both new cylinders my mechanic could NOT bleed the system properly.

The usual pedal feel "with pressure" is not there.

I am reading the DIYs in Renn Tech & it's quite confusing.

Can you lead me to the page where i can get some info on how to bleed my clutch system without the "Motive" equipment?

My 996 has been in the lift for 2 days now. :help:

More power!

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  • 1 month later...

A power bleeder is very easy to make. All you need is a 1 gal garden sprayer (about $10 from Lowes/Home Depot) and some 1/4" plumbing parts and a pressure gauge. Here's a writeup I did on the one I made for my Toyota 4X4. For the Porsche, I *should* need only another replacement cap for the porsche master or clutch cylinder reservoir, another 1/4" quick disconnect, and some glue to seal the fitting onto the cap. I need to find a dismantler who will sell me a used cap to butcher.

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