McCullough

When clicking on "View New Content" I get the error message: Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 134217728 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 5816403 bytes) in /home/renntech/public_html/forums/ips_kernel/classDb.php on line 1475 I was last logged on last night. I have cleared cookies, cleared browser cache, closed down and logged in again, all to no avail; I keep getting the same message. My profile setting is "Show me all new content since my last visit." Any ideas? Thanks. --- Tom

Try this site. Page down for the wiring info. http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/trailer/ --- Tom

When you have a p/n with an M-code in the "Model" column, simply right-click and select M-Pages. That'll bring up a complete list of all the codes. --- Tom

Try out the wheel offset calculator at http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp. --- Tom

Front trunk light not working on my '99. Bulb, fuse, and light socket all check out OK (swapped socket with rear trunk). Before I tear into the wiring harness, I'd like to rule out the switch itself. Anyone know where the "turn on the front trunk light" switch is located? I don't see anything obvious that would trigger the light when opening the trunk. --- Tom

The car is a '99 986 Boxster but it's got a '99 911 3.4L motor (non-egas). Heavily tracked. I've got a list of all the DME Setpoints for the motor but I don't understand what the values for "Spec. Air Mass" and "Spec. Air Adaption" are. What is "Spec." an abberviation for? "Special?" "Specification?" --- Tom

I'm just starting to use the Durametric to diagnose some occasional rich running conditions (strong exhaust smell). Can someone help me understand what "Spec. Air Mass" and "Spec. Air Adaption" are? (What is "Spec.?") I'm getting somewhat high readings on "Mass Air Flow" and "Spec. Air Mass." I'm currently suspecting a slightly cracked oil fill tube. -- Tom

Try this: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/trailer/ ---Tom

Hi Anthony, I see you're in NYC so you may want to look into joining the Metro New York Region of the Porsche Club of America (PCA). See our Web site at http://www.metronypca.org/ We've got a New Members meeting taking place in Jericho, Long Island on Thursday evening, Feb. 28. You'll have an opportunity to learn all about our Driver Education program and all the other activities that we host during the coming year. --- Tom

Where does one acquire the mentioned "Porsche OBD II 5.2.2 Service Manual?" --- Tom

Check out http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/ --- Tom

The last couple of times I bled the clutch, I simply pumped up the Motive Power bleeder and opened the bleeder valve for a few seconds, just like the brakes. I'm now looking to do it the "right" way. In the "Brake/Clutch Fluid Change and Bleeding Instructions" DIY, I'm a bit confused about the clutch bleeding sequence. IIUC, the clutch pedal is held down (with a piece of wood), the bleeder valve is opened for at least 30 seconds, the wood is removed, the pedal is pumped slowly for 60 seconds, pedal is left at the top of it's movement, wait 90 seconds, then close the bleeder valve, pull up the pedal, then pump slowly a few times. Does the bleeder valve actually stay open during all the pumping and waiting? Is the the Motive Power bleeder supposed to stay pressurized during this entire process? Thanks! --- Tom

Jeff, as usual, you're the MAN! Many thanks. --- Tom

Need to replace my door lock module. What size Torx (I assume it's a Torx) is required for the screws that hold the module in (accessible from the door jamb part of the open door). Bigger than anything I have which means a trip to Sears tomorrow. I'm thinking T-40 or T-45. Thanks. --- Tom

Thanks, Loren. That's the first thing I thought of. But would a failed microswitch precipitate the other faults I'm seeing? (e.g, alarm error double-beep when locking an open door). The handle switch *seems* to work OK since the window drops when I pull it and the window goes back up when I release it. The ringer is that the system doesn't appear to know that the door is actually open so the window should stay down. Is one of the functions of this microswitch (key #5 in your diagram) to know if the door is open or closed? If so, then I agree with you and I'll get a new switch. Thanks. --- Tom

I'm having a problem with the driver-side door electronics on my US '99. Passenger side is OK. Everything seems to point to the fact that the alarm system seems to think that the door is closed at all times, even when it's actually open (except when I actually am pulling on the inside or outside door handle). When I lift the door handle on the inside or the outside, the window drops a few millimeters as it's supposed to, but if I oprn the door and release the handle, the window goes back up (as if the door was closed). In addition, if the key is in the ignition, and I open the door, the warning gong sounds when I lift the door handle, but stops immediately when I release the handle, even if the door remains open; if I pull up on the handle with the door open the warning gong starts sounding again until I release the handle. Everything else seems to work OK: windows work OK with the inside switches, open and close when holding the key in the door, open a couple of inches when releasing the convertible top latch, etc. One other symptom I encountered while testing: if the door is open and I press the key to remotely lock the car, I can hear both doors lock, then immediately unlock and I get two beeps from the alarm rather than the single I would expect. Seems to indicate that the system thinks the door is closed, sets the lock, then realizes that the door didn't lock so unlocks and sounds two beeps indicating an error. I've removed/reset the appropriate fuses, disconnected the battery for an hour or so, and opened and reset the door wiring connector box in the 'A' piller after spraying both sides with contact cleaner. Is there some kind of switch or sensor that tells the alarm system that the door is open or closed? The wiring diagram shows switches for "door contact," "lock," and "safe contact" (what is that?), but I don't see any PET parts listings for any door switches other than the handle microswitch. Could that be the one? Any other tests I can try or ideas about how to fix? Thanks. --- Tom

What kiind of pump are you using for this? Where did you get it? --- Tom

Here is the definitive Boxster brake DIY: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/ I get all my OEM brake parts from Sunset in Oregon. --- Tom

Who would you recommend out of the three <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I primarily use DeMan. All three are very capable independents. --- Tom

Thia mod seems to activate the main beams (second position of light switch). Anyone know how to only activate the parking beams (first position of light switch)? --- Tom

Three that I've used: DeMan Motorsport in Nyack, NY Farnbacher-Loles in Danbury, CT Rennwerke in Elmsford, NY --- Tom

When I bought my '99, my dealer -- per my request -- set up the doors so that they lock automatically at about 4 MPH. Since I now track the car pretty regularly, I'd like to have that changed to not lock the doors at all. My independent shop has a PST2 but doesn't know the sequence of commands/keypresses to make that change. Can anyone help with the correct command/key sequence? --- Tom

The 9mm hex on my clutch bleed nipple ('99 Boxster / 5-speed) is beginning to get a bit rounded (boy that puppy's tough to get at cleanly!). Does anyone have the part number for this piece? I tried p/n 996.301.071.00 (bleeder), but the part that my local parts dept delivered was a trans oil widget and didn't look like a bleed nipple (more like a very small PCV (though the p/n was correct as above). --- Tom

If they *do* disappear, check out the neighborhood kids' bikes. :-) --- Tom

Isn't the Boxster Aerokit I bumper completely different? I've seen them going for pretty cheap. The Aero II bumper is very similar/identical to the early GT-3 bumper however. --- Tom