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60K Maintenance


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I'm new to the forum, but the information on the site is fantastic. I plan to do as much of the maintenance and repairs as possible and will be processing a Durametric Code reader.

I recently purchased a 99 Carrera Coupe, Tiptonic, 52,000 miles from a private party. I don't have a book that has the maintenance recommendations but I have the receipts from the prior owner for the last 25,000 miles of service. What is the recommended maintenance at 60K miles? The dealer says, oh that is a "major" service costing around $2,400. They also recommend pulleys and rollers need to be changed. Am I missing something? I have never heard of this on any vehicle I've owned and maintained. I would appreciate a listing of the required/recommended maintenance at 60K or point me to it on the website.

The only problem I've had is what appears to be a problem for others is the ABC/TC lights turning on and off. Hopefully the code reader will help find the problem.

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I'm new to the forum, but the information on the site is fantastic. I plan to do as much of the maintenance and repairs as possible and will be processing a Durametric Code reader.

I recently purchased a 99 Carrera Coupe, Tiptonic, 52,000 miles from a private party. I don't have a book that has the maintenance recommendations but I have the receipts from the prior owner for the last 25,000 miles of service. What is the recommended maintenance at 60K miles? The dealer says, oh that is a "major" service costing around $2,400. They also recommend pulleys and rollers need to be changed. Am I missing something? I have never heard of this on any vehicle I've owned and maintained. I would appreciate a listing of the required/recommended maintenance at 60K or point me to it on the website.

The only problem I've had is what appears to be a problem for others is the ABC/TC lights turning on and off. Hopefully the code reader will help find the problem.

I am also new to theforum, and agree that the information shared here is GREAT!!! Anyway, i purchased a '99 Cab with 55k miles and drove it for a bit then had the 60k service done here in Orange County. The local PCA recommended shop (Nardi, Game Face Motorsports) did plugs, oil change (with all filters- fuel, oil, air) belt, inspection, brake fluid flush, and some corresponding adjustments. They also found a oil drip around the sparkplug wire seal and replaced the set. Car ran even better than when i brought it in...which i found to be amazing since i thought it ran good before the service. Anyway it ran me $900. I am no authority by any stretch, but he cam recommended and i was happy with the service he did.

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There is a maintenance checklist on this site. Here is a shortcut

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...code=maint_menu

IMO $2,400 is way too much for the 60,000 service. I had it done not too long ago and paid about $650. I saved a lot by change the filters and the oil myself. The remainder of the service is a thorough inspection and sparkplug change, which I will go myself from now on.

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I just did this today for $1150 at the Sacramento Dealer. This was the 60K service, Plus Brake Fluid change. It included stuff like Plugs, Filters, and Belt along with a thorough inspection. Altho their service was excellent, I don't plan on doing this again at a dealer. I had 3 more days on a 3rd party warranty and figured they'd give my new baby the best once-over.

Edited by DiscobayJoe
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I've got 57,000 on it now, and I planning on doing it myself. I've worked on a lot of cars but this is my first Porsche. Reading all the post has been a great help.

Does anyone have any recommendation for parts suppliers?

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I'd also recommend doing a lot of the 60k service yourself, but I'm DIY type. I simply enjoy doing it, and changing the oil and spark plugs yourself can save some real money.

Mine is coming up, and I plan on having the dealer do some of the 60k servcie for me. I'll have them flush the brake fluid, replace the serpentine belt, read out the fault codes, and maybe some other checks/adjustments.

But I don't need the dealer to replace my pollen filter, or change my oil or plugs. That stuff is very easy, especially with a good set of ramps and an angled driveway to get the car horizontal for the oil change.

BTW, I just purchased FOUR of the charcoal-type pollen filters from www.drivewire.com for only $13 each. The paper standard pollen filters are like $11 and change, and made by Mahle. The dealer charges $75 for the charcoal one, and almost $40 for the standard one.

DP

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Steve, nothing difficult about it other than sticking your hands up in there. I did mine with engine in place. I got lucky and borrowed a lift but could have done it just as well with jackstands. Need a 10mm socket and a 5mm(?) allen head to get the heat shields off and the coil packs out. Then unplug the coil packs and remove. Put in a spark plug wrench and unscrew. Apply some anti-sieze to the new plugs threads, insert and tighten. Replace the coil pack, tighten down and plug back in. One down, 5 more to go. The only thing you have to be careful about is making sure you don't mix up the wiring on the coil packs ( can do one at a time to avoid this problem ) and making sure that you plug the pack back in completely. I'd also suggest that you wear some latex gloves.

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I found this

There are probably two reasons to NOT use anti-seize compounds:

(1) Some experienced mechanics feel that it is then easy to overtorque and pull threads.....my answer is that one should be using a torque wrench, AND lowering the official torque (which is usually for use withOUT antiseize compound).

(2) Since the use of popular antiseize compounds acts like a lubricant, the applied torque MUST be reduced...about a 1/3 reduction is roughly correct. SOME manufacturer's are concerned.......with HEAT conduction....probably feeling that the heat range of the spark plug is changed by the use of the compound. I have NOT seen this in real life situations. I have always used some sort of antiseize compound on my own spark plugs...and I have close to 530,000 miles on airheads. I've NEVER 'pulled' spark plug threads out of a cylinder head.

Antiseize compounds vary in characteristics, but I have found NONE that are NOT OK at the spark plugs. ONE thing you do NOT want to do is use OIL!!!...and that includes WD40.....these will carbonize, and cause thread damage over a long period of time.

NOTE: ONCE antiseize is used, it tends to work its way into the aluminum head metal....from that point on, it is best to use antiseize.

Edited by evansaero
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If that is the case, I'll continue to use Mercedes' anti sieze on my plug threads. I've never before seen anyone suggest not using anti-seize and considering the dissimilar metals and potential corrosion point I'm reluctant to start now. I would agree that any lubricant will reduce the torque required, as one would expect.

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