Ordered Glass top from Robbins

[pmpjuil]

My yellowish Green rear plastic window finally cracked! and decided to order Robbins Glass top from ebay.

I haven't received the top yet but I'm in the middle of preparing myself for long DIY.

I just have few questions before the DIY.

1. Is there any old parts I should replace with new one?

2. Any members here have Robbins Glass top and have advice for me?

3. I'm worried about possible wrinkes and which area is mostly like to give me hard times with getting rid of wrinkles?

Thanks in Advance and I will keep you guys posted.

Sean.

[1schoir]

My yellowish Green rear plastic window finally cracked! and decided to order Robbins Glass top from ebay.

I haven't received the top yet but I'm in the middle of preparing myself for long DIY.

I just have few questions before the DIY.

1. Is there any old parts I should replace with new one?

2. Any members here have Robbins Glass top and have advice for me?

3. I'm worried about possible wrinkes and which area is mostly like to give me hard times with getting rid of wrinkles?

Thanks in Advance and I will keep you guys posted.

Sean.

Sean:

There are a few parts that you should get before proceeding with your top replacement, as they will either be worn out or are likely to break when you take your top apart.

The clamping rails are prone to breakage at their protrusions.

The sliders have been updated a number of times, and the latest versions end with the number "003" (see a recent thread by "jimmyboyle" for that saga).

You will also probably have to make your own foam seals as those are apparently not available from Porsche. I posted photos of the foam seals so that you can make your own set in that same thread by "jimmyboyle".

You will also need a roll of 3M (or other brand) thin double-sided tape.

For a comprehensive procedure, with lots of photos, on how to replace your top, read the article in Mike Focke's Boxster Pages. That will also clarify what the parts referred to above are, as they are foreign to anyone who has not delved into replacing their top. Here is the link:

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/replacingthetop-adiy

Mike has also added a new section that deals specifically with differences in installing a glass windowed top.

If you take your time and don't cut any corners, you can install your top without any wrinkles.

And, mark my words, since your window is now a yellowish green and has a crack in it, after you install your new top and step back to look at it, you will think you bought a new car!

Regards, Maurice.

[pmpjuil]

Thank you so much Maurice.

I feel more motivation, because of especially the last sentence.

I've been reading Mr. Mike Focke's DIY article couple of times and I can't wait to try this DIY.

Only thing I am worrying about is the long-term glass separation due to glue failure.

What is your opinion on that issue Maurice?

[1schoir]

Thank you so much Maurice.

I feel more motivation, because of especially the last sentence.

I've been reading Mr. Mike Focke's DIY article couple of times and I can't wait to try this DIY.

Only thing I am worrying about is the long-term glass separation due to glue failure.

What is your opinion on that issue Maurice?

Sean:

The glass separation has been a problem with a number of the aftermarket glass-windowed tops, and I am not sure which one had more of a problem, GAHH or Robbins. From what I have read, it was more of a problem with the earlier production and they may have resolved or ameliorated it.

Your best bet is to do a search on this forum and read all the threads you can find with that topic. I know that there were some threads that mentioned that the manufacturers made good on sending new tops, but this is probably not a job you want to do twice.

I would also call the vendor and ask them about this issue specifically and what they would do if the glass indeed separates.

While you are reading through those threads, you will also find out more information about some of the shortcomings of the glass windowed tops: smaller window, more restricted access to the engine compartment, etc...

For most people having a glass window rather than a vinyl window outweighs any disadvantages that may exist.

Regards, Maurice.

[honda_nos]

I put on a Robbin's Glass top on my 99TIP and am loving it. I don't mind too much the smaller "service" area because the top does not go into full service mode.

Thank you so much Maurice.

I feel more motivation, because of especially the last sentence.

I've been reading Mr. Mike Focke's DIY article couple of times and I can't wait to try this DIY.

Only thing I am worrying about is the long-term glass separation due to glue failure.

What is your opinion on that issue Maurice?

Sean:

The glass separation has been a problem with a number of the aftermarket glass-windowed tops, and I am not sure which one had more of a problem, GAHH or Robbins. From what I have read, it was more of a problem with the earlier production and they may have resolved or ameliorated it.

Your best bet is to do a search on this forum and read all the threads you can find with that topic. I know that there were some threads that mentioned that the manufacturers made good on sending new tops, but this is probably not a job you want to do twice.

I would also call the vendor and ask them about this issue specifically and what they would do if the glass indeed separates.

While you are reading through those threads, you will also find out more information about some of the shortcomings of the glass windowed tops: smaller window, more restricted access to the engine compartment, etc...

For most people having a glass window rather than a vinyl window outweighs any disadvantages that may exist.

Regards, Maurice.

[jimyboyle]

The foam seals are supplied as part of convertable top kit

part number P000.043.300.45 ( £38.00 in UK )

The kit also includes a head lining and some

self adhesive velcro which i presume is to attach the lining.

I failed to find a way to get the seals as a separate item.

Jim Boyle

[1schoir]

The foam seals are supplied as part of convertable top kit

part number P000.043.300.45 ( £38.00 in UK )

The kit also includes a head lining and some

self adhesive velcro which i presume is to attach the lining.

I failed to find a way to get the seals as a separate item.

Jim Boyle

Jim:

Porsche put that kit together after they issued a TSB which dealt with the problem of flapping noises at speed caused by the canvas top beating down on one of the cross members of the convertible top frame. It consists of those elusive seals, a foam mat and a long self-adhesive velcro strip.

I believe that the reason that Porsche does not supply the foam seals separately is because the seals also come as part of a kit which includes the complete convertible top canvas.

Regards, Maurice.

[pmpjuil]

Hey Maurice,

the top has finally arrived and it looks very good. The Canvas feels exactly same as the one on my car and glass window looks amazing.

Bytheway, the installation paper which came with the top says that, I need to get Plastic Rivet (P/N: 986.561.597.00) is this necessary?

[1schoir]

Hey Maurice,

the top has finally arrived and it looks very good. The Canvas feels exactly same as the one on my car and glass window looks amazing.

Bytheway, the installation paper which came with the top says that, I need to get Plastic Rivet (P/N: 986.561.597.00) is this necessary?

Sean:

Glad it looks great. It will look even better when it's on the car.

The plastic rivets (there are four altogether) are not necessary, unless you have lost the ones that are supposed to be on your old top.

You can re-use the plastic rivets. You will find them (2 on each side) pressed into the nubs that stick out of each clamping rail (one near the top of the clamping rail, the other near the bottom), after each clamping rail is pressed through the sliders.

Regards, Maurice.

[pmpjuil]

Thanks for the reply. I have ordered 2 Sliders and 2 Clamping Rails from the dealership and they will be arriving sometime next week.

I was going to purchase the Convertible Kit which was about CAD $90.00 (for foam seals) but the dealer didn't seem to know what is included in the kit.

I explained to them what it is according to your post (for flapping noise) and they didn't seem to agree with that. They said the kit could be for

rips and tears on the canvas. I have about a weak to make my own foam seals using Jimboyle's thread so I will keep you posted.

Thank you for everything again Maurice.

Sean

[honda_nos]

In regards to the rivets you'll find that the Robbin's top has a "new" elastic scrap system in which you are supposed to push the rivet through the elastic and then into the factory plastic arm piece.

I had a hard time getting them to stay in so I'll likely hot glue the rivets into place this weekend. You should see what I mean when you do the job.

Thanks for the reply. I have ordered 2 Sliders and 2 Clamping Rails from the dealership and they will be arriving sometime next week.

I was going to purchase the Convertible Kit which was about CAD $90.00 (for foam seals) but the dealer didn't seem to know what is included in the kit.

I explained to them what it is according to your post (for flapping noise) and they didn't seem to agree with that. They said the kit could be for

rips and tears on the canvas. I have about a weak to make my own foam seals using Jimboyle's thread so I will keep you posted.

Thank you for everything again Maurice.

Sean

[1schoir]

Thanks for the reply. I have ordered 2 Sliders and 2 Clamping Rails from the dealership and they will be arriving sometime next week.

I was going to purchase the Convertible Kit which was about CAD $90.00 (for foam seals) but the dealer didn't seem to know what is included in the kit.

I explained to them what it is according to your post (for flapping noise) and they didn't seem to agree with that. They said the kit could be for

rips and tears on the canvas. I have about a weak to make my own foam seals using Jimboyle's thread so I will keep you posted.

Thank you for everything again Maurice.

Sean

Sean:

You are most welcome.

You are better off trying to make the foam seals yourself.

I talked to my friend at the body shop and looked over the TSB.

It turns out that the foam seals supplied in the kit are different than the ones you need to seal up the sides. There are two of them in that kit, one 30cm x 1cm x 0.5cm that they ask you to cut into two pieces, and one 12cm x 1cm x 0.2cm that they ask you to cut into four pieces. Those six cut up pieces end up getting glued onto the forward corners of the convertible top frame and they make no provision for the side foam seals.

If for some reason you decide as a preventive measure against the top flapping you really want the kit from the dealer, tell the dealer to look at Porsche TSB #6113 for the 986 Boxster, dated 4/04, and entitled “Convertible Top Covering Noises (Flapping) starting at Approx. 75 mph (120 km/h)”.

The “description” of Part Number 000.043.300.45 is as follows in the TSB: “New/convertible top installation set, consisting of: Plastic foam mat, Velcro strip (194cm), seals for convertible top and roof frame.”

It is supposed to cure a “flapping” noise that occurs as a result of air turbulence cause by vehicles driving ahead of the Boxster.

My own opinion is that it is not necessary unless you experience that top flapping problem at speed or unless you spend a lot of time on the track. After I installed my top I had it way above 75 mph on a number of occasions, behind other cars, and there has been no problem whatsoever.

If you need more photos of the seals before you make them, I can probably dig up a couple of more, but the ones I posted on the jimyboyle thread should be sufficient.

One thing that you should follow carefully is the caution contained in the DIY to make sure that you make the cutouts big enough so that the screws don’t catch the foam seal material as it is being compressed, otherwise it will start to get caught in the screw threads and rip/deform them.

Good Luck!

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

In regards to the rivets you'll find that the Robbin's top has a "new" elastic scrap system in which you are supposed to push the rivet through the elastic and then into the factory plastic arm piece.

I had a hard time getting them to stay in so I'll likely hot glue the rivets into place this weekend. You should see what I mean when you do the job.

Honda:

Is the "new" Robbins elastic strap system similar to the original system for the early 986's where there was a 5" long elastic strap that had a plastic rivet going through its end before it was pressed into one of the nubs of the clamping rail?

There is a photo of the original elastic strings (labeled #3) in post #8 of the "jimyboyle" thread, here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry94596

I'm wondering if Robbins put this in to compensate for the Porsche "return" to the shorter sliders, as described by jimyboyle at the end of that same thread?

Regards, Maurice.

[pmpjuil]

Finally my Clamping rails and sliders have been arrived. So I decided to take the old top down today.

Following Mr. Mike Focke's DIY, taking it off was a breeze. I still need to make my foam seal and buy 3M automotive tape

so Installation of new top is going to be tomorrow.

I took some pictures of my old Foam seal, Old top vs Robbins glass top.

Old Top

New Robbins Glass top

where the U-shape frame is.

Bottom (Old Top) and Top (Robbins Glass top)

Robbins top does not have 4 holes for Phillips screws. Would I have problem with installing without these holes?

Old Foam Seal. No volume to the foal at all.

[1schoir]

...

I took some pictures of my old Foam seal, Old top vs Robbins glass top.

...

Bottom (Old Top) and Top (Robbins Glass top)

Robbins top does not have 4 holes for Phillips screws. Would I have problem with installing without these holes?

Old Foam Seal. No volume to the foal at all.

Sean:

Good work. Sounds and looks like you are making progress.

The reason that there is no volume to the old foam seals is because they have been compressed under the aluminum shoulder plates for many years. Take a look at the photos of the new factory seals that I posted on the other thread (jimyboyle thread) to get an idea of what they look like when they are brand new and have not been compressed.

As far as the 4 holes for the Phillips screws, you definitely have to make new holes for the screws to fit through after that edge of the top is folded over onto the small sides of the aluminum shoulder plates.

These 4 holes (on each side) are in the four areas that you must cut out the foam seals so that the phillips screws don't get caught up in the foam when you are tightening down the aluminum shoulder plates onto the black metal frame of the top mechanism that is over the windows.

One last point. Remember to clean all of the areas where you will be installing the 3M double sided tape thoroughly so that you get a decent bond. If there is any grease or oil or fingerprints on those areas, the 3M tape won't stick that well.

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

...

Robbins top does not have 4 holes for Phillips screws. Would I have problem with installing without these holes?

Sean:

I forgot to stress the importance of making and locating those 4 holes for the Pillips screws on each side.

Use the old top as a template so that you can mark and make the holes in the EXACT location onto the new top.

The reason this is so important is that the canvas material may show some wrinkles after it is installed because the aluminum shoulder plates are used to pull the canvas taut after the canvas is attached to the shoulder plates. The correct positioning of the holes will minimize the risk of wrinkles.

Regards, Maurice.

[pmpjuil]

Dear Maurice,

I have decided to finish the installation tomorrow because I am a bit confused on installing the backside.

Could you correct me if this process is correct for rear?

1. Insert thin-cloth- into the top slot (out of 3 slots)

2. Insert plastic strip into the same slot.

3. Inset a strip with flat surfice (which previously had double sided tape on)

4. Put the rear end of top over these two strips.

5. After lining up the seams, roll or fold the bottom part of the top and put the Fat strip over it.

Also, I'm having a problem with making both left and right side's seam to line up. Top is so tight that

if I pull one side (driver side curve), the other side (passenger side curve) goes out of the line.

Because of this, I do not know how I'm going to put double sided tape between this tight fit between

the flat surface strip and the canvas.

Thanks Maurice.

[1schoir]

Dear Maurice,

I have decided to finish the installation tomorrow because I am a bit confused on installing the backside.

Could you correct me if this process is correct for rear?

1. Insert thin-cloth- into the top slot (out of 3 slots)

2. Insert plastic strip into the same slot.

3. Inset a strip with flat surfice (which previously had double sided tape on)

4. Put the rear end of top over these two strips.

5. After lining up the seams, roll or fold the bottom part of the top and put the Fat strip over it.

Also, I'm having a problem with making both left and right side's seam to line up. Top is so tight that

if I pull one side (driver side curve), the other side (passenger side curve) goes out of the line.

Because of this, I do not know how I'm going to put double sided tape between this tight fit between

the flat surface strip and the canvas.

Thanks Maurice.

Sean:

1&2: Correct, it goes into the forwardmost slot (slot #1). The plastic strip is the narrow one with ribs on both sides (they act like fish hooks and makes it much harder to pull the strip out, so it anchors the back edge of the canvas securely).

3: The middle slot (slot #2) gets the vinyl gasket that has the triangular cut-away view with the flat surface ending up visible on top of that slot. You must put double-sided tape on top of that flat surface.

4: Correct.

5: You must put the trailing part of the canvas down into this rearmost slot (slot #3) in such a way that it is smoothed down along the forward vertical wall of slot #3 and flat down onto the bottom (horizontal) surface of slot#3. Remember to lay a strip of the double sided tape onto the bottom surface of slot #3 before you press the canvas into it. This is one of the two crucial parts that must be done correctly to avoid wrinkles.

The double-sided tabe will not add to the thickness of the canvas in any meaningful way, so don't leave it off.

As far as lining up the seams, this should be done starting with the insertion of the ribbed strip into slot #1. Make sure that you have an equal distance from the left edge of the end of the canvas strip that inserts into that slot #1 as you do from the right edge of the canvas strip that inserts into that slot.

Take a look again at the paragraph #16 that I wrote up for Mike Focke's pages for installing the top, and pay particular attention to the two photos I posted there which show you the way to insure that the fat rubber gasket (in slot #3) is lined up properly against the seam.

I know that part is difficult (especially if the weather is not making the canvas pliable), but it pays to be patient and keep at it until you get a perfect result. It can be done (remember, somebody did it at the factory) and you can use silicone spray to help slide things into place a little easier. Just don't get any silicone spray on the surfaces that are to be adhered with the double sided tape.

Regards, Maurice.

[pmpjuil]

Dear Maurice, finally the installation is done. Iam so exhausted but the top looks unbelievable!

I found a bit easier way for me to work by removing the rear frame and started to work from the back towards front.

No wrinkles whatsoever and the top was just tight enough for me to pull down little bit and close.

I will take some pictures after I get a bit of drink. I really appreciate all your help and give me your address

so I can send you a bottle of homemade wine or something haha.

Thanks!

Sean.

[1schoir]

Dear Maurice, finally the installation is done. Iam so exhausted but the top looks unbelievable!

I found a bit easier way for me to work by removing the rear frame and started to work from the back towards front.

No wrinkles whatsoever and the top was just tight enough for me to pull down little bit and close.

I will take some pictures after I get a bit of drink. I really appreciate all your help and give me your address

so I can send you a bottle of homemade wine or something haha.

Thanks!

Sean.

Sean:

Congratulations on sticking with it. It can be a little tiring, but the difference that a new top makes when your old one has a cracked or yellowing window is worth all of the effort.

I'm not sure what you mean by "...removing the rear frame..." but I would love to see some photos, especially if you have before and after photos.

Again, great work!

Regards, Maurice.

[honda_nos]

Maurice, sorry missed this question earlier, yes, it is one of the same. I need to glue the plastic rivets in because every now and then it pops out.

In regards to the rivets you'll find that the Robbin's top has a "new" elastic scrap system in which you are supposed to push the rivet through the elastic and then into the factory plastic arm piece.

I had a hard time getting them to stay in so I'll likely hot glue the rivets into place this weekend. You should see what I mean when you do the job.

Honda:

Is the "new" Robbins elastic strap system similar to the original system for the early 986's where there was a 5" long elastic strap that had a plastic rivet going through its end before it was pressed into one of the nubs of the clamping rail?

There is a photo of the original elastic strings (labeled #3) in post #8 of the "jimyboyle" thread, here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry94596

I'm wondering if Robbins put this in to compensate for the Porsche "return" to the shorter sliders, as described by jimyboyle at the end of that same thread?

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

Maurice, sorry missed this question earlier, yes, it is one of the same. I need to glue the plastic rivets in because every now and then it pops out.

Honda:

Is the "new" Robbins elastic strap system similar to the original system for the early 986's where there was a 5" long elastic strap that had a plastic rivet going through its end before it was pressed into one of the nubs of the clamping rail?

There is a photo of the original elastic strings (labeled #3) in post #8 of the "jimyboyle" thread, here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry94596

I'm wondering if Robbins put this in to compensate for the Porsche "return" to the shorter sliders, as described by jimyboyle at the end of that same thread?

Regards, Maurice.

Honda:

Thanks for clarifying that point.

Regards, Maurice.

[klueless7571]

Hi Sean,

My plastic window was cut by vandals last week, so I'm looking to get the Robbins Window and proceed as you had done. Did you also hook up the power for the electric rear window defogger? Do you need a wiring harness for that?

Derek

[830]

i own a 01 boxster S,

is replacing the vinyl top with an original glass top from the facelifted model very expensive? ( i know we will need to replace the 3 bow motor with the 4 bow)

or is it even viable or possible?

any pointers guys?

[830]

no one has done this before? is it that expensive :huh: