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rwmdouglas

Aftermarket Sound System Install

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It appears that many of you have experience in replacing the factory radio. I recently bought a 2003 Carrera 996 coupe and want to replace the CDR23 with more capability. I'm looking at a Pioneer DEH P7900BT with a Sirius tuner. However, after reading many posts on the site, I'm not clear on whether I have to have special tools (or the dealer) to remove the CDR23 and/or reset codes after removal and whether I can somehow continue to use the Bose Amplifier (M680) due to the MOST system, or need to add a new amplifier as well. Would appreciate any experience and guidance in this area, especially any harness or asaptors needed. :help:

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It does take special tools to take out the radio. You can find them on Ebay for about $.99, but then pay $5-$6 for shipping. This is where I got mine. Once the radio is removed you need the code to reinstall it, but it you are upgrading this doesn't matter. The Most system is the big challenge. By the way, if you are keeping the stock speakers you won't get much improvement from a new head unit. The speakers are the weakest link in the system, they are crap. Start with speakers, then an amp. Last step should be the head unit.

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Dharn is correct about the speakers. They are a joke. Unfortunately, you also need to replace the amp if you replace the speakers due to the impedance. As I recall, the factory speakers (in a non- MOST car) use a funky impedance that will make the factory amp incompatible with a 'normal' set of good quality speakers. Given the fairly reasonable prices on decent amps (JL Audio is my fav due to their level of quality and 'idiot-proofing') it isn't that much more to do the amp as well as the speakers. And since you've invested the money in an amp and speakers, what's a couple more coins for a nice receiver.... my how slippery this slope becomes. :D

Oh, and the other piece of advice is stay away, far far far away, from the dweebs at the big box electronic stores as far as the installation goes. If you can't do it yourself, which any sentient human really is capable of, find a *good* installer in your area and pay for a *quality* install. The garbage that I have seen the Best Buy / Circuit City types do to a car is simply criminal, not to mention a recipe for fire and electrical issues.

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It does take special tools to take out the radio. You can find them on Ebay for about $.99, but then pay $5-$6 for shipping. This is where I got mine. Once the radio is removed you need the code to reinstall it, but it you are upgrading this doesn't matter. The Most system is the big challenge. By the way, if you are keeping the stock speakers you won't get much improvement from a new head unit. The speakers are the weakest link in the system, they are crap. Start with speakers, then an amp. Last step should be the head unit.

Thanks for responding. Hoping to do this in two phases - first get the Blue Tooth (hands free needed in the DC area), Satellite Radio and MP3 capability with a new head unit and then tackle the speakers and amp (gaining the new capability first at sacrifice of the quality). Can you advise whether it's possible to either use the factory amp (M680) for now, or bypass it directly to the speakers?

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I just did this with my 2003 C2 Cabrio.

Luckily...I didn't have the BOSE upgrade so I just ran right from the back of my new HU to the speakers. I also went with the BT hands-free as well as SIRIUS and full iPod integration with the Alpine iDA-X001. The whole thing installed was about $800 and it sounds pretty **** good even with the stock speakers.

Your amp is no good anymore...the MOST system is absurd and useless...purely a machanism to control/lock-in the consumer with no added quality or features. Just take it out and use extra wire to bridge the gap to the HU...it will cost a little more.

The speakers are another matter entirely...one I haven't yet addressed myself.

M

PS - I agree that you should take the job to a prefessional installer who knows Porsche...understand what is being done as best you can before you have someone else do it and avoid the large chains.

Edited by Purist

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I started with the speakers first. I put Focal 100KP's in the dash, these are component speakers with 4.25 mids and tweeters, they fit with minimal modifications, just cut the old speakers out of the frames and used this frame to secure the mids in place on the grills. the tweeters were held in place with silicone, I think I used a dremel tool a little bit where th tweeters mount, and to cut the frames of the old mids. for the doors I started with a pair of 5.25 mids striped out of a set of Focal 130KP's. they were OK, but not a true sub. They fit in with just a little work with a dremel tools, had to remove some of the reinforcing ribs in the speaker enclosure as the new speakers were deeper and wider at the back.

Ran these with the stock amp and the amp/ohms worked fine. the sound was much better than stock, totally improved. Later I swtiched out the doors for a pair of Focal 5WS, a true sub, but no loner made, Focal now has 13KP and one other 5.25" sub. the true subs were a big improvement over the Mids I originally used. The next step was adding a JL Audio E6450 amp, this is a 6 channel amp, so I have two channels for the dash, tow channel for the rears, and two channels combined for the dor/subs. I also put focal 100CA's in the rear, not really necessary at the rears are only for infill, but it did make a big difference over the stock speakers which are the same as the stock dash speakers.

The new set up with the amp and speakers sounds fantastic, and you can really crank it with any distortion. Now with the small subs you won't ever get the type of base that shakes the whole car, but that is not my desire. some users put 6.5" in the doors, with a little more dremel work, or pur an enclosure in the back, with a cab there are boxes you can put in the rear seats or others that fit behind the front seats, and you can get an 8-10" sub in.

I am still using the stock head unit (CDR220) and the stock 6 disc changer, and the system sounds really good, although the CD sound better than the radio, either the in dash or the changer. I know a new head unit would be even better, but I like the stock look so I am sticking with the stock unit. GOOD LUCK!!

Edited by Dharn55

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I have a 2002 C2 with the technic (HI-FI option..I love that...so the stock is LO-FI then?..it's the SAME HU, only the speaker count is different!) I also want to keep the stock look. Your upgrade sounds perfect to me. Just a few questions: How did you a fix the speakers to the OEM frames? Silicone? Does the Becker HU (I have the same as yours) use low level outputs or high level outputs to the amp? Which did you use to the JL Audio amp? WHere did you install the xovers? Any pics? Thanks!

I started with the speakers first. I put Focal 100KP's in the dash, these are component speakers with 4.25 mids and tweeters, they fit with minimal modifications, just cut the old speakers out of the frames and used this frame to secure the mids in place on the grills. the tweeters were held in place with silicone, I think I used a dremel tool a little bit where th tweeters mount, and to cut the frames of the old mids. for the doors I started with a pair of 5.25 mids striped out of a set of Focal 130KP's. they were OK, but not a true sub. They fit in with just a little work with a dremel tools, had to remove some of the reinforcing ribs in the speaker enclosure as the new speakers were deeper and wider at the back.

Ran these with the stock amp and the amp/ohms worked fine. the sound was much better than stock, totally improved. Later I swtiched out the doors for a pair of Focal 5WS, a true sub, but no loner made, Focal now has 13KP and one other 5.25" sub. the true subs were a big improvement over the Mids I originally used. The next step was adding a JL Audio E6450 amp, this is a 6 channel amp, so I have two channels for the dash, tow channel for the rears, and two channels combined for the dor/subs. I also put focal 100CA's in the rear, not really necessary at the rears are only for infill, but it did make a big difference over the stock speakers which are the same as the stock dash speakers.

The new set up with the amp and speakers sounds fantastic, and you can really crank it with any distortion. Now with the small subs you won't ever get the type of base that shakes the whole car, but that is not my desire. some users put 6.5" in the doors, with a little more dremel work, or pur an enclosure in the back, with a cab there are boxes you can put in the rear seats or others that fit behind the front seats, and you can get an 8-10" sub in.

I am still using the stock head unit (CDR220) and the stock 6 disc changer, and the system sounds really good, although the CD sound better than the radio, either the in dash or the changer. I know a new head unit would be even better, but I like the stock look so I am sticking with the stock unit. GOOD LUCK!!

Edited by perryinva

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I've removed many factory radios, envelope knife works for me everytime.

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For the dash and rear speakers I used the frames from the old mids, cutting out the speakers themselves to hold in the new mids to the speaker grills. This was an easy dremel tool job, just cutting out four arms on each frame. Then the frames just fit over the new mids. For the tweeters, I did use a dremel tool to flatten out the opening on the grills, then siliconed in the tweeters. for the dash speakers you will need to run new wires from the new crossovers, the stock speakers only use two wires, and resistors for the tweeters. The Focal 100KP's are separate components. For the rears I used the Focal coaxials so the old wiring worked. In the doors I used a 5.25" focal 5WS, this required cutting out some reinforcing ribs in the door enclosures to fit the width and epth of the new speakers. Then used rubber weatherstripping and the original screws to hold them in the enclosures. It is impoertant to get a good seal around the frames. I sued a JL Audio 6450, 6 channel amp. You want the low level outputs to the amp. As i remember, the HU has both. The crossovers are in the trunk next to the amp. Unfortunately I have not finished this part of the install, still need to fabraicate a mounting board and cover, and cover it with carpet material. The area where the stock amp comes out might be big enough for the crossovers, but not the JL Audio amp I used. And I have a C4 Cab so the trucnk space is small and the stock windscreen holder goes against the back fo the trunk. Still working this out. I saw someone said you could use a letter opener, I would not try it as the slots are very thin, get the tools.

I have a 2002 C2 with the technic (HI-FI option..I love that...so the stock is LO-FI then?..it's the SAME HU, only the speaker count is different!) I also want to keep the stock look. Your upgrade sounds perfect to me. Just a few questions: How did you a fix the speakers to the OEM frames? Silicone? Does the Becker HU (I have the same as yours) use low level outputs or high level outputs to the amp? Which did you use to the JL Audio amp? WHere did you install the xovers? Any pics? Thanks!

I started with the speakers first. I put Focal 100KP's in the dash, these are component speakers with 4.25 mids and tweeters, they fit with minimal modifications, just cut the old speakers out of the frames and used this frame to secure the mids in place on the grills. the tweeters were held in place with silicone, I think I used a dremel tool a little bit where th tweeters mount, and to cut the frames of the old mids. for the doors I started with a pair of 5.25 mids striped out of a set of Focal 130KP's. they were OK, but not a true sub. They fit in with just a little work with a dremel tools, had to remove some of the reinforcing ribs in the speaker enclosure as the new speakers were deeper and wider at the back.

Ran these with the stock amp and the amp/ohms worked fine. the sound was much better than stock, totally improved. Later I swtiched out the doors for a pair of Focal 5WS, a true sub, but no loner made, Focal now has 13KP and one other 5.25" sub. the true subs were a big improvement over the Mids I originally used. The next step was adding a JL Audio E6450 amp, this is a 6 channel amp, so I have two channels for the dash, tow channel for the rears, and two channels combined for the dor/subs. I also put focal 100CA's in the rear, not really necessary at the rears are only for infill, but it did make a big difference over the stock speakers which are the same as the stock dash speakers.

The new set up with the amp and speakers sounds fantastic, and you can really crank it with any distortion. Now with the small subs you won't ever get the type of base that shakes the whole car, but that is not my desire. some users put 6.5" in the doors, with a little more dremel work, or pur an enclosure in the back, with a cab there are boxes you can put in the rear seats or others that fit behind the front seats, and you can get an 8-10" sub in.

I am still using the stock head unit (CDR220) and the stock 6 disc changer, and the system sounds really good, although the CD sound better than the radio, either the in dash or the changer. I know a new head unit would be even better, but I like the stock look so I am sticking with the stock unit. GOOD LUCK!!

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So the 4" Focal frames will screw to the old grills? No room for the xovers in the cavity of the dash with the speakers out? Didn't catch you used co-axials in the rear..good idea..just leave the dead tweeter in place.

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Hey Guys,

If using the HIFI amp, are the 6 outputs @ 2 ohms, or is it just the doors ones? Has anyone tried 4 ohm speakers in the door with success using the HIFI amp?

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All depends on how U wire your speakers( series,parallel).

Most hi - performance amp should perform even @ 1 ohm.

post-23680-1207325128_thumb.jpg

Hey Guys,

If using the HIFI amp, are the 6 outputs @ 2 ohms, or is it just the doors ones? Has anyone tried 4 ohm speakers in the door with success using the HIFI amp?

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I started with the speakers first. I put Focal 100KP's in the dash, these are component speakers with 4.25 mids and tweeters, they fit with minimal modifications, just cut the old speakers out of the frames and used this frame to secure the mids in place on the grills. the tweeters were held in place with silicone, I think I used a dremel tool a little bit where th tweeters mount, and to cut the frames of the old mids. for the doors I started with a pair of 5.25 mids striped out of a set of Focal 130KP's. they were OK, but not a true sub. They fit in with just a little work with a dremel tools, had to remove some of the reinforcing ribs in the speaker enclosure as the new speakers were deeper and wider at the back.

Ran these with the stock amp and the amp/ohms worked fine. the sound was much better than stock, totally improved. Later I swtiched out the doors for a pair of Focal 5WS, a true sub, but no loner made, Focal now has 13KP and one other 5.25" sub. the true subs were a big improvement over the Mids I originally used. The next step was adding a JL Audio E6450 amp, this is a 6 channel amp, so I have two channels for the dash, tow channel for the rears, and two channels combined for the dor/subs. I also put focal 100CA's in the rear, not really necessary at the rears are only for infill, but it did make a big difference over the stock speakers which are the same as the stock dash speakers.

The new set up with the amp and speakers sounds fantastic, and you can really crank it with any distortion. Now with the small subs you won't ever get the type of base that shakes the whole car, but that is not my desire. some users put 6.5" in the doors, with a little more dremel work, or pur an enclosure in the back, with a cab there are boxes you can put in the rear seats or others that fit behind the front seats, and you can get an 8-10" sub in.

I am still using the stock head unit (CDR220) and the stock 6 disc changer, and the system sounds really good, although the CD sound better than the radio, either the in dash or the changer. I know a new head unit would be even better, but I like the stock look so I am sticking with the stock unit. GOOD LUCK!!

Hi, could you help? i've got a Y2000 C2 with the same factory sound system as you. Like you i like the H/U, i've changed the multi changer to a ipod connection. Now it's time to change the stock speakers. I want to do the dash first to see what type of difference this will make.

My question is can i use the existing speaker wiring?

Is it easy to follow the speaker wires back to the amp to wire in the crossovers?

Would it be easier to use coax speakers instead of components, i've never fitted components,how easy is it compared to coax.

I've run cables fitted new amps and seakers before so i'm no numpty, but your advice would be cool.

cheers Chris.

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Hey!

I´m also about to upgrade my system.

I will still use the CDR-220 though, for the stock look.

My problem is that I have no amps or anything original.......and I want to get a low level - signal from the 220 to the amp(s).

Anyone knows if it is possible to get a low-level signal from the 220??

Thanks!

//Mat

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Dharn55,

How did you connect the JL 6 channel amp to the CDR-220? if i recall from the wiring schematic, the CDR-220 on has 4 output lines and that the factory amp (non-Bose) does something majical internally to separate the low level signal and thus give you 6 channel output. I am asking this because we will be using some DLS speakers for my Dad's 1999 996. Any diagrams or drawing would be extremely helpful.

Thanks,

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I bought an adapter from Becker America that uses the low level output on the CDR 220 and has connectors for RCA jacks. Ran two sets of RCA cable, one with an extra wire to use the electric antennae lead on the CDR 220 to switch the power on the amp. This allows the use of the fade and balance on the CDR 220. The JL Audio only has inputs for 4 channels, then it has settings that allow you to filter the low frequency signals off the 4 channels, blend them and output them on channels 5 & 6. Not sure how your amp works, but many 6 channel amps work this way.

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Darn,

The JL A6450 amp that we have has six inputs (RCA) and can mix the signal from channels 1-4 for channel 5-6, but it acts like a full range 6 channel amp, not sub channel channels for 5-6. On another note, what is the maximum top mounting depth for the dash and rear speakers? Will 2" be too deep?

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Sorry, it was 4=5 years ago that I did my sound system and I did not remember exactly how the amp was set up. I have the JL Audio E6450 and I went back and reviewed the manual today. It does have the ability to have 6 inputs, so if you have a head unit that outputs six separate signals it can be set up that way. It also has a "Sum Function" that allows you to sum the signals for channels 1-4 and output the low frequency signals to channels 5&6. This is the way I have mine set up as the OEM CDR220 only outputs 4 channels.

For the dash speakers 2" might be tight but I think it wold work. Not real room or mounting spot for crossovers in the dash so I recommend mounting them in the truck and running new cables to the dash, the OEM wires only have two wires to each speaker and you will need four with the crossovers in the trunk..

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Dharn,

Thank you so much for your help... also regarding the doors, what is the depth on them to mount these small subs (5.25")? Sorry for all the questions.

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I recently acquired a 2001 C4 that came with the CDR-220 and hifi system with door speakers along with the stock 6x40 watt amp. As others have noted elsewhere, the system sounded like a cheap AM radio. In addition, I had gotten used to having a nav system and bluetooth hands free link in my cars, so an upgrade was inevitable. Given that the 996 cabin is not the ideal acoustic chamber, however, I didn't want to overdo it. I also wanted to do it myself, so I wanted to keep it simple.

Originally, I was planning to go with a Pioneer double din head unit with nav and bluetooth, along with new speakers. Realizing that my iphone 4s had nav, bluetooth and a multitude of other apps such as Pandora, I ultimately decided to go with a single din head unit that could take advantage of the tech in the phone.

I had previously purchased products from Crutchfield, which include installation instructions and the necessary wiring harness adaptors, so I started my search there. The Kenwood Excelon KDC-X996 had the features I was looking for (iphone integration, bluetooth hands free link, Pandora, HD radio, Sat radio etc.), and the model number matched the Porsche's, so I went with that one for $299. Installation with Crutchfield's instructions and wiring harnesses was straight forward. Based on others' advice, I ended up mounting the hands free mic in the top front corner of the driver's side headliner, routing the wire down the A pillar and under the dash. It looks and works great there.

I found a great way to mount the iphone itself at www.proclipusa.com. The mount attaches securely and unobtrusively to the passenger side of the front center console without having to drill any holes, and puts the iphone within easy reach to the right of the stick. Costs about $100 with tilt, swivel and pass through cable connector.

The head unit works great with the iphone. I now have the features I really wanted (nav and bluetooth), plus a lot of other nice features (including the ability to match the interior lighting colors) and extensive audio adjustments. The new head unit resulted in a significant improvement in the sound, but the stock paper cone speakers still left much to be desired.

I quickly discovered that getting aftermarket speakers to fit the stock dash and rear seat covers was non trivial due to the non standard mounting points. I didn't want a solution that involved butchering the old speakers and copious amounts of glue. I addition, I didn't want to invest the time required to fabricate my own mounting adaptors. No need to reinvent the wheel here: I found a vendor in the UK that makes an adaptor kit for certain aftermarket speakers, JM Garage. They also list these adaptors on ebay from time to time. The adaptor kit works for the dash and rear seat covers. The kits are a bit (i.e., very) pricey (about $90 per pair of speakers); but for me it was well worth the savings in time and effort.

I decided to go with the kits for US Alpine speakers (SPS-410 - less than $50/pair on Amazon). Installation with the adaptor kits was a breeze. The Alpine speakers are a tremendous bargain. For mids and highs, they sound fantastic in the 996. A huge upgrade over the stock speakers. As 4 inch speakers, however, they do not reproduce lower frequencies. Moreover, the hifi amp sends the lower frequencies to the 5.25 inch door speakers anyway.

Replacing the door speakers was, therefore, next. The good news: almost any standard 5.25 inch speaker will fit. The bad news, you have to take the door panels off to get to the speakers. There are good online tutorials here and elsewhere to get the door panels off. It turns out to be a relatively easy task.

Speaker selection for the doors is a matter of price and functionality. If you use the stock amp, you want a component speaker since the stock amp sends only lower frequencies to the door speakers. A lot of folks seem to like focal speakers. Given the high price, I'm sure they are great; but most installations that I saw online a used a lot of glue. I prefer to avoid glue.

After looking around for something with stock amp compatible power and the best low end frequency response, I decided to try the 5.25 inch speakers that come in the Pioneer TS-D1320C component set. The set runs about $90 and includes component tweeters and bulky crossovers, which I did not plan to use (unfortunately, I couldn't find the 5.25 inch speakers for sale by themselves). Selling points for me: "deep basket for better bass reproduction" and frequency response down to 35 Hz. Of course, the proof is in the pudding, and these speakers sound great. Very nice base response for a 5.25 inch speaker. They are not 10 inch subwoofers by any means, but you can definitely feel the base in the car, and it rounds out nicely the excellent sound produced by the Alpine speakers.

All told, I have a very respectable sound system with the technology add ons that I was looking for at a cost of $770 and a few hours of installation time. I wish the Kenwood had the speedometer based automatic volume control like the Becker, but nothing's perfect so I adjust the volume manually at highway speeds. I love my 996, and now I love its sound system too.

post-82817-0-12158600-1353635203_thumb.j

Edited by 1dmurrray

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