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Adjusting Clamshell after cable break


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I have a Boxster (MY 00, 2.7) One side of "clamshell" raised as the other side remained fixed. Convertible top "motor" had stripped/or spun cable on side of clamshell that did not rise. Now that I have replaced cable, it appears that the"gears" on each side of top are out of adjustment.

Q-Is there a proper technique for adjusting these gears? I see that there is a hash mark on the wheel, and hub....are these to be aligned, and then just put back in place? Any help would be appreciated...thanks

Edited by NVYMED
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Find Maurice and or follow my top related posts here or on the 986forum. One of these forums has whole section devoted to this issue.

Regards, PK

Thanks...new to this site, have not quite poked around to find where everything is located.

NVYMED

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Find Maurice and or follow my top related posts here or on the 986forum. One of these forums has whole section devoted to this issue.

Regards, PK

Thanks...new to this site, have not quite poked around to find where everything is located.

NVYMED

NVYMED:

You can use the hash marks as a general reference point, but your best bet is to start by disconnecting the cable (on the side that you replaced) and then rotating the V-lever on the opposite side (the side that was still "good") by either depressing the convertible top button on the dashboard or by placing the end of the inner cable on the "good" side in a cordless drill (set at low torque).

Observe that V-lever rotating until you get a measurment of about 195 mm (7.7 inches) from the center of the steel ball on the V-lever that is connected to the black hydraulic pushrod that acts on the clamshell to the top edge of the rubber gasket that surrounds the convertible top compartment.

Once you have done that side, do the same on the side where you replaced the cable by spinning the inner (speedometer-type) cable on that side with the drill.

Then make sure you have re-inserted each cable into the sides of the electric motor and replaced the (upside down U-shaped) clips that hold them securely in place.

After you have each steel ball (on the rearmost end of the V-lever) lined up with the above measurement, then press the black hydraulic pushrods back onto the steel balls. You can slide the clamshell arms back and forth in their respective channels until the cup end of the hydraulic pushrods get into a position that allows you to press them back on.

This procedure should get the top and the clamshell re-synchronized. Since you have removed the V-levers from the transmissions, be very sure that you don't install the V-levers upside down. Because of the keyway on the back, they can only be installed in two positions: one is correct, and the other is 180 degrees off.

Let us know how you make out.

Regards, Maurice.

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Hi All. It would seem that we both have the EXACT same problem. Literally no kidding.

Same color of car, same color of top and at the exact same stage in trying to solve it.

I replaced the drivers side cable, but I am having trouble synchronizing it, plus my clamshell looks exactly like yours when the lid is down.

Have you been able to bend it back into shape? Were you able to sync the transmissions and get your top back to a healthy state?

Please help. desperate.

--Fabian

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Hi All. It would seem that we both have the EXACT same problem. Literally no kidding.

Same color of car, same color of top and at the exact same stage in trying to solve it.

I replaced the drivers side cable, but I am having trouble synchronizing it, plus my clamshell looks exactly like yours when the lid is down.

Have you been able to bend it back into shape? Were you able to sync the transmissions and get your top back to a healthy state?

Please help. desperate.

--Fabian

Fabian:

If you haven't put a crease in the clamshell, you should be able to straighten it out, but it usually takes two people to press it back into shape properly.

Search the archives for posts by Tool Pants and Mark in Sunnyvale and you will see photos of how they did it.

If you follow the instructions in the previous post, you should be able to synchronize the transmissions. If you run into any specific roadblocks, describe them in detail and we'll be able to get them resolved.

Regards, Maurice.

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Find Maurice and or follow my top related posts here or on the 986forum. One of these forums has whole section devoted to this issue.

Regards, PK

Thanks...new to this site, have not quite poked around to find where everything is located.

NVYMED

NVYMED:

You can use the hash marks as a general reference point, but your best bet is to start by disconnecting the cable (on the side that you replaced) and then rotating the V-lever on theopposite side (the side that was still "good") by either depressing the convertible top button on the dashboard or by placing the end of the inner cable on the "good" side in a cordless drill (set at low torque).

Observe that V-lever rotating until you get a measurment of about 195 mm (7.7 inches) from the center of the steel ball on the V-lever that is connected to the black hydraulic pushrod that acts on the clamshell to the top edge of the rubber gasket that surrounds the convertible top compartment.

Once you have done that side, do the same on the side where you replaced the cable by spinning the inner (speedometer-type) cable on that side with the drill.

Then make sure you have re-inserted each cable into the sides of the electric motor and replaced the (upside down U-shaped) clips that hold them securely in place.

After you have each steel ball (on the rearmost end of the V-lever) lined up with the above measurement, then press the black hydraulic pushrods back onto the steel balls. You can slide the clamshell arms back and forth in their respective channels until the cup end of the hydraulic pushrods get into a position that allows you to press them back on.

This procedure should get the top and the clamshell re-synchronized. Since you have removed the V-levers from the transmissions, be very sure that you don't install the V-levers upside down. Because of the keyway on the back, they can only be installed in two positions: one is correct, and the other is 180 degrees off.

Let us know how you make out.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, tremendous thread on getting those T-Levrs in sync. Thought about the measuring approach...but I could not find a tape measure anywhere; so I released cable from bad side, and just activated the good T-Lever...gentle taps at the top switch allowed me to get it reasonably tight. By the way, this NEW clamshell came after I twisted, and tweaked the the clamshell(now a hunk of metal ready for EBAY)....moments after the transmission cable had broke.

So this was an expensive little lesson learned. Take home message: if one side of clamshell is not moving... do not continue raising clamshell; clamshell, could easily be tweaked beyond repair...as in my case

NVYMED

Thank you Maurice for directing this fix.....all other post equally appreciated. Thanks

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Hi All. It would seem that we both have the EXACT same problem. Literally no kidding.

Same color of car, same color of top and at the exact same stage in trying to solve it.

I replaced the drivers side cable, but I am having trouble synchronizing it, plus my clamshell looks exactly like yours when the lid is down.

Have you been able to bend it back into shape? Were you able to sync the transmissions and get your top back to a healthy state?

Please help. desperate.

--Fabian

Gave up trying to tweak the to sraight...ended up buyin another Clamsheel, and having painted to my specs...good as new.

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Hi All. It would seem that we both have the EXACT same problem. Literally no kidding.

Same color of car, same color of top and at the exact same stage in trying to solve it.

I replaced the drivers side cable, but I am having trouble synchronizing it, plus my clamshell looks exactly like yours when the lid is down.

Have you been able to bend it back into shape? Were you able to sync the transmissions and get your top back to a healthy state?

Please help. desperate.

--Fabian

Fabian:

If you haven't put a crease in the clamshell, you should be able to straighten it out, but it usually takes two people to press it back into shape properly.

Search the archives for posts by Tool Pants and Mark in Sunnyvale and you will see photos of how they did it.

If you follow the instructions in the previous post, you should be able to synchronize the transmissions. If you run into any specific roadblocks, describe them in detail and we'll be able to get them resolved.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice and NYVMED:

It is now nearly 4am (been working on the car pretty non-stop since noon). Thank you both for the help, I believe I am now on the home stretch, almost there but not quite.

Here are my actions/comments:

1. I was able to bend my clamshell back into perfect shape (no crease or dent), that was a huge relief for me.

2. I have the two motors synchronized using the method that was prescribed.

3. I did reverse the v-lever for the cable I replaced (I think I had installed it wrong) and it gave some sense of normality.

4. I hooked up the black clamshell joints and it definitely closes and opens the clamshell in a sync'd way.

5. However when the clamshell is fully down, the light is still on, not sure why?

What am I missing now, the two transmissions seem to be sync'd.

Thanks in advance guys!

--Fabian

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Fabian,

Just a thought...you may try and pull out cabe to one side, where it attaches to transmission. Hit top down button a couple of times. Reinsert cable, and do the same for the opposite side. It may be that your top is traveling to far forward, thus not allowing your"light" to go off. I t took me a while to synch those levers...I just kept removing the cable, and hitting "top down button" on the side of clamshell that was raised higher. Ultimately, the clamsell leveled out.

NVYMED

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Hi All. It would seem that we both have the EXACT same problem. Literally no kidding.

Same color of car, same color of top and at the exact same stage in trying to solve it.

I replaced the drivers side cable, but I am having trouble synchronizing it, plus my clamshell looks exactly like yours when the lid is down.

Have you been able to bend it back into shape? Were you able to sync the transmissions and get your top back to a healthy state?

Please help. desperate.

--Fabian

Fabian:

If you haven't put a crease in the clamshell, you should be able to straighten it out, but it usually takes two people to press it back into shape properly.

Search the archives for posts by Tool Pants and Mark in Sunnyvale and you will see photos of how they did it.

If you follow the instructions in the previous post, you should be able to synchronize the transmissions. If you run into any specific roadblocks, describe them in detail and we'll be able to get them resolved.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice and NYVMED:

It is now nearly 4am (been working on the car pretty non-stop since noon). Thank you both for the help, I believe I am now on the home stretch, almost there but not quite.

Here are my actions/comments:

1. I was able to bend my clamshell back into perfect shape (no crease or dent), that was a huge relief for me.

2. I have the two motors synchronized using the method that was prescribed.

3. I did reverse the v-lever for the cable I replaced (I think I had installed it wrong) and it gave some sense of normality.

4. I hooked up the black clamshell joints and it definitely closes and opens the clamshell in a sync'd way.

5. However when the clamshell is fully down, the light is still on, not sure why?

What am I missing now, the two transmissions seem to be sync'd.

Thanks in advance guys!

--Fabian

ALL I AM HAPPY TO REPORT MY TOP IS NOW BACK TO NORMAL AND OPERATIONAL.

I think I was pretty close last night, I was pretty sure I was missing something, so I decided to hit the bed at 4am. I woke up this morning, took a fresh look at it and got it going perfectly.

Thank you all for your help.

Please send me a message if you are ever in San Francisco, I am happy to repay the favor in cigars, scotch/beer/wine.

Much appreciated.

--Fabian

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Maurice, tremendous thread on getting those T-Levrs in sync. Thought about the measuring approach...but I could not find a tape measure anywhere; so I released cable from bad side, and just activated the good T-Lever...gentle taps at the top switch allowed me to get it reasonably tight. By the way, this NEW clamshell came after I twisted, and tweaked the the clamshell(now a hunk of metal ready for EBAY)....moments after the transmission cable had broke.

So this was an expensive little lesson learned. Take home message: if one side of clamshell is not moving... do not continue raising clamshell; clamshell, could easily be tweaked beyond repair...as in my case

NVYMED

Thank you Maurice for directing this fix.....all other post equally appreciated. Thanks

NVYMED:

Glad you were able to get it working properly. From what you have gone through, you'll never get stranded with the top not operating again.

Fabian: Good job perservering. There's nothing like persistence to get the job done.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Maurice, tremendous thread on getting those T-Levrs in sync. Thought about the measuring approach...but I could not find a tape measure anywhere; so I released cable from bad side, and just activated the good T-Lever...gentle taps at the top switch allowed me to get it reasonably tight. By the way, this NEW clamshell came after I twisted, and tweaked the the clamshell(now a hunk of metal ready for EBAY)....moments after the transmission cable had broke.

So this was an expensive little lesson learned. Take home message: if one side of clamshell is not moving... do not continue raising clamshell; clamshell, could easily be tweaked beyond repair...as in my case

NVYMED

Thank you Maurice for directing this fix.....all other post equally appreciated. Thanks

NVYMED:

Glad you were able to get it working properly. From what you have gone through, you'll never get stranded with the top not operating again.

Fabian: Good job perservering. There's nothing like persistence to get the job done.

Regards, Maurice.

THANK YOU MAURICE...GREAT ADVICE

NVYMED

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