Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Hi Granbury,

I recently went through this on my 99 C2. I can offer help, I learnt alot in the process. I have some documents at home I can send you tonight. There are certain things that make the job MUCH easier. The first is realising how to release the alternator once you have access to it.

My thread is here :

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=20598

-James.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Granbury,

I recently went through this on my 99 C2. I can offer help, I learnt alot in the process. I have some documents at home I can send you tonight. There are certain things that make the job MUCH easier. The first is realising how to release the alternator once you have access to it.

My thread is here :

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=20598

-James.

Thanks James, appreciate the help. I read your string before. Did you have a big pulley where the bottom alternator bolt goes? I just looked at it this morning and it looks like this pulley bolt lines up with where the bottom of the alternator is. Also, to release the drive belt turn in clockwise direction? Then to return it to tension turn in the same direction? I would assume they would be opposite?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tensioner is spring-loaded. When you release the bolt, the pulley will snap back into its original position. A couple quick suggestions from my recent experience with replacing the alternator...

If the top flange is really tight, have a buddy put downward pressure with a blunt chisel (or something like that) on the flange while you wiggle the alternator. That really helped it rotate clockwise to come out.

Have a local auto electric shop rebuild your existing alternator. My cost was $190CDN after taxes and it worked like a charm. The replacement parts of our alternators are generic.

If the alternator was tight coming out, grind a couple thousandths off the rear bushing of the top flange. I took enough off so that it was still snug, but it rotated into place easily. When you tighten the bolt, the bushing will pull in tight to the mount on the engine.

Have fun!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the alternator was tight coming out, grind a couple thousandths off the rear bushing of the top flange. I took enough off so that it was still snug, but it rotated into place easily. When you tighten the bolt, the bushing will pull in tight to the mount on the engine.

I haven't looked but is the rear bushing designed to move to take up the slack? If so it can be moved backwards to allow more clearance removing the need to grind material off of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neil, yes, the rear bushing is designed to move. A gentle tap to the fastening bolt before it is removed (but after loosening a few turns) is all that is required to open up the bushing and make removal easy.

Granbury, I sent you a PM.

Cheers,

-James.

Edited by jamesgood72
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.