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Q-Ship986

Yet Another Way to Add a Homelink Device

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Yet Another Way to Add a Homelink Device


Some good ideas for integrating a garage door opener have been previously presented in these forums; this is probably the most popular: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5770 In this case, I installed a genuine Homelink device, tapping into two of its three channels which are actuated by a Porsche targa shade switch for near-OEM function and appearance. I went this route because it has the advantage of being programmable (and re-programmable) and there are no worries about po

 

Edited by Q-Ship986

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Nice job and great write up! :) I too installed homelink and was going to go the switch route but the Targa switch was pretty expensive, IMHO.

So, I took a homelink box and mounted it in the batwing (cut out the fins and use a dremel to make the holes). It's powered it off the phone cord.

2722538088_1a6d4b3f37.jpg

and installed w/ the indicator light:

2646373890_a933da2af1.jpg

Incidentally, if you find the range too short, just open the box up again. Using two 2"x 10" strips of aluminum foil, fold the 2" side over twice (to make it about 1/2" x 10"). Then wrap one piece around each end of the antenna (the silver bridge-like thing on the right of the circuit board in your pic 5 above) and feed outside the box. Close the box back up and wrap each strip (parallel to each other) around the black plastic box and tape the ends down w/ scotch tape. This will at least double the range you are getting if not more... (good for community gates).

:)

Edited by Cassiebox
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Some good ideas for integrating a garage door opener have been previously presented in these forums; this is probably the most popular: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5770

In this case, I installed a genuine Homelink device, tapping into two of its three channels which are actuated by a Porsche targa shade switch for near- OEM function and appearance. I went this route because it has the advantage of being programmable (and re-programmable) and there are no worries about power or battery life. Although this isn't an original idea, I went about it a little differently than I've seen before, so I thought I'd share here.

This Homelink installation was for my particular 2003 986S. Other vehicles may be different, part numbers change, and there are risks involved in doing mechanical and/or electrical work on a vehicle. What's presented here is a general overview of my DIY project, not a complete step-by-step set of instructions. Please obtain, understand, and follow the necessary repair and installation procedures in order to work safely, avoid damaging anything, and achieve a safe result.

I obtained a Homelink device by purchasing a used overhead console unit from a late model GM vehicle. If I remember correctly, it was a 2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I bought it from an LKQ vendor on eBay for about $50. I wanted to get a device that I was fairly sure would have rolling code capability, so I took a pass on many of the units that did not have their date of production or vehicle of origin stated. Some photos of the console I bought:

post-6002-1225416292_thumb.jpg post-6002-1225416032_thumb.jpg

The Homelink was simply screwed into the plastic console and was extracted easily. I saved the connector and a bit of the wiring harness attached to it. (Most of the rest was recycled.)

post-6002-1225416449_thumb.jpg post-6002-1225416461_thumb.jpg

post-6002-1225416474_thumb.jpg

The three blue circles are actually tiny incandescent bulbs with blue, semi-transparent covers; these were for backlighting of the original console's pushbuttons, which in turn actuated the silver/white pushbuttons located just above the bulbs. I studied the circuitry and did some internet research. I found that not all Homelink boards will look like the one above, so if you obtain one yourself, prepare for possible differences.

Anyway, I determined that the GM wiring harness connected to this device did the following: The orange wire was +12VDC for the transmitter, the black wire was the main ground, and the brown wire with the white stripe (the middle wire) was +12VDC for the three backlight bulbs. I carefully detached the three blue-covered bulbs and the three pushbuttons from the board. I suppose you could leave the bulbs, but I wanted them out of the way. After that, the board looked like this:

post-6002-1225416598_thumb.jpgpost-6002-1225416619_thumb.jpg

What I decided to do was keep the OE power/ground connector and solder wires to the appropriate tabs that formerly held the pushbuttons. The soldered ends are covered with glue for added durability. I trimmed the case a little, getting rid of the OE mounting tabs. A small hole in the case was made for the added wires. A Molex interlocking connector completed the assembly.

post-6002-1225416741_thumb.jpg

post-6002-1225416877_thumb.jpg post-6002-1225416890_thumb.jpg

I did the installation while doing another wiring project (adding footwell lighting, another post in this forum). I first made sure the key was out of the ignition and then disconnected the battery. Among the things I ended up removing to do both projects: the driver's seat, driver's side rocker and kick panel trim, the dashboard relay carrier, the gauge cluster, all components of the upper center console (i.e. trim, radio, HVAC control, vents, cupholder, etc.), the lower center console, and other trim.

I connected the targa shade switch and the Homelink directly to the appropriate bridge plugs ("BS") and ground point ("GP"). I put together a wiring diagram for my records (see below). In my car, BS7 is for consumer-switched-off and BS5/2 is for the instrument panel LED lighting with dimming. These bridge plugs are in the dashboard relay carrier. GP7 is under the driver's seat. This way, the switch is backlit and dimmed the same as the other console switches. The consumer-switched-off circuit goes into standby mode about two hours after the car is turned off. Therefore, power to the Homelink is shut down, too. However, the Homelink retains its programming, regardless of the duration that power is interrupted. As soon as a door is opened, this circuit springs back to life and the Homelink functions as usual.

This wiring diagram applies to my car and the Homelink board that I tapped into, so use at your own risk.

post-6002-1225418951_thumb.jpg

There was a good place above the HVAC ductwork with plenty of room to mount the Homelink assembly. I used heavy-duty self-adhesive Velcro to adhere it to a flat spot on the underside of the dash. The purple socket on the left side is what I prepared for the targa shade switch.

post-6002-1225417249_thumb.jpg post-6002-1225417233_thumb.jpg

The targa shade switch in the lower left position is easily reached without looking. Push one side to activate one channel, push the other side to activate the second channel. To program the Homelink, you hold the remote that you want to emulate near the center of the dash above where the Homelink is mounted. Press and hold the remote button. Press and hold the appropriate side of the targa switch. Count to ten. If your garage door opener is not rolling code, then you are done. If rolling code, you have to follow the instructions that came with your garage door opener. For mine, the final steps were to press a "learn" button on the opener itself and then press the targa switch three times (each time holding for a second or two), all within 30 seconds.

post-6002-1225417284_thumb.jpg post-6002-1225417267_thumb.jpg

The range on the Homelink as I installed it here is acceptable to me; it works from 50-100 feet (15-30 meters), no matter what direction the vehicle is facing. I was going to try mounting it high up in the A-pillar as others have done, but the Homelink case was just too big to fit under the trim.

Porsche Parts List:

(1) -- 996.613.119.10.A05 -- switch, console, targa shade, matte black

(1) -- 996.650.111.40 -- plug socket, console switch (purple)

(5) -- 999.650.103.12 -- connector (for console switch plug socket)

(2) -- 999.650.320.22 -- connector (for contact bridge/bridge plug)

Regarding wiring, I used automotive-grade TXL 18 AWG wire, purchased online from KayJay Co. (http://www.kayjayco.com). You'll also need a ring connector for the ground wire and the Molex connector and pins that I mentioned above; these are items available at your local electronics store. I bought extra connectors for everything, because they are cheap and if you mess up during crimping/soldering, it is no big deal to just do another one. Also, you'll want to have high-quality friction tape, electrical tape, wire ties, and wire covering for neat and safe wire routing.

That's it; hope it was of interest.

--Brian

Thanks for the info, I mounted my targa shade switch on the bat wing (see photo)

post-39220-1247685513_thumb.jpg

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Sorry to "resurrect" such an old post.

I have the parts coming for this project. I was wondering if anyone in the Richmond, VA area has done this and would be available to assist. I haven't started yet, but I may have some issues making connections "directly to the appropriate bridge plugs ("BS") and ground point ("GP")."

I may just cheat and power it from the phone power cord, but I prefer Q-Ship's more elegant approach.

I have a Homelink console from a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer on the way. It appears very similar to the 2005 unit Q-Ship used ($19.99 plus $11 shipping.) The Targa switch is the priciest item - $27.

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I finished installing this modification on my 2000 base Boxster today. Here are a few notes for anyone who plans to do this.

1. This is a very good method for installing a garage door opener. I would call it an OEM garage door opener, but because Porsche didn't offer it as an option on the 2000 Boxster, that would be inaccurate. My brother-in-law helped me with the soldering. When he saw the Targa switch he said, "That's neat, it even has a picture of a garage door on it."

2. The 2000 Boxster (and I assume all 1997-2002 Boxsters) has a slightly different anatomy than the 2003-2004 cars. (The 97-02 cars have the "bat wing" center console. The 03-04's have the "horseshoe".) There is no room above the air conditioning vents for the transmitter in the 97-02 cars. I used velcro to attach it to the "front wall" of the space behind the radio and the HVAC controls. Also, the two "wings" of the "bat wing" on the center console just pull off. If you want to take the entire front off like the author of the original article you need to remove the bat wing by removing 4 T-15 Torx screws.

3. If you are not familiar with the relay carrier, here's an article that includes instructions for accessing it: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...y+carrier\ Be sure to read the author's article on the foot well lighting mod. That has diagrams of the relay carrier including the exact points to tap into for power. The power points on my 2000 were the same as on his 2003.

4. I couldn't find a glossy black Targa switch. According to the sources I checked, it is only available in matte black. I have heard of some people coating the flat black switches with a glossy clear coat. I have not done that because I am concerned that it would wear off. I may coat mine later.

5. I have not been able to obtain this part: 996.650.111.40 -- plug socket, console switch (purple). It may not be absolutely necessary. I was able to wire the Homelink directly to the switch. I wrapped electrical tape around the individual contacts to avoid shorts. It is working, but I think I will retrofit the plug socket once I locate one.

We have about 10 inches of snow on the ground here and I did not take my Boxster out to check on the range of the transmitter. I'm hoping that it will be more powerful than the remote that came with my garage door opener.

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4. I couldn't find a glossy black Targa switch. According to the sources I checked, it is only available in matte black. I have heard of some people coating the flat black switches with a glossy clear coat. I have not done that because I am concerned that it would wear off. I may coat mine later.

I sprayed mine with a clear glossy coat and can't tell the difference. It has been going on 3 years now.

Picture027.jpg

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Thanks for the update. If you haven't had a problem after three years, it sounds like it will hold up well.

Do you remember which brand you used and where you bought it?

Edited by KevinH90

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This is the cleanest best looking homelink install I've seen anywhere

Nice job and great write up! :) I too installed homelink and was going to go the switch route but the Targa switch was pretty expensive, IMHO.

So, I took a homelink box and mounted it in the batwing (cut out the fins and use a dremel to make the holes). It's powered it off the phone cord.

2722538088_1a6d4b3f37.jpg

and installed w/ the indicator light:

2646373890_a933da2af1.jpg

Incidentally, if you find the range too short, just open the box up again. Using two 2"x 10" strips of aluminum foil, fold the 2" side over twice (to make it about 1/2" x 10"). Then wrap one piece around each end of the antenna (the silver bridge-like thing on the right of the circuit board in your pic 5 above) and feed outside the box. Close the box back up and wrap each strip (parallel to each other) around the black plastic box and tape the ends down w/ scotch tape. This will at least double the range you are getting if not more... (good for community gates).

:)

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This is the cleanest best looking homelink install I've seen anywhere

Thanks! It was actually a very easy mod to do once I knew the box would fit in the batwing. OEM like integration and simplicity add to the appeal IMNSHO. Probably should have removed it before I sold the car as I could have sold it many times over - LOL.

:)

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