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OBD2 Fault Code P1325-Inlet camshaft bank 2


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Greeting from Puerto Rico everybody:

My name is Andres Bonano and I am from Puerto Rico. This is my first time posting in this forum and I am relatively new to Porsches. I recently purchased a 2001 996 Turbo with 36,000 miles and I will greatly appreciate some advice on a CEL code that recently started. After scanning it with my Durametric software, I found the following:

P1325-Porsche fault code 901-Inlet camshaft bank 2

I purchased from Porschelibrarian the manuals for may car(yet haven't arrived since this is very recent). He was very kind to me and provided me in advance with some great information regarding OBD2 codes. However, since I don't have yet the information regarding the location of the parts asociated with this code, have any of you had a code similar to this one and what did you do? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and happy holidays!!!

Andres

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Thank you Loren!!!

Even though I haven't posted before, I have had the chance to read many topics where you have provided great advice and demonstrate great Porsche knowledge(props for that ;))

Moving to the topic, where exactly should I look for the Bank 2 "Hydraulic valve solenoid" and its electrical plug in the engine? Is it accessible from the rear engine compartment or do I need to remove the tire, bumper, etc?

I understand that the first thing to do is to verify the wiring, plug condition and anything power related. If this doesn't work, the next step should be removing the solenoid and attempt to clean it(hope this is realistic since I haven't seen what is exactly the composition of this unit). Since I have the Durametric software, I can make it actuate and verify if it works. Finally, if this doesn't work I guess I would have to purchase a new unit.

Since the mail man haven't arrived with the purchased 996 turbo information, at this time I have minimum to none idea where to look at. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Andres

:welcome:

P1325 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible

Possible fault cause:

- Dirt in system

- Solenoid hydraulic valve mechanically blocked

  • Upvote 1
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Thank you Loren!!!!

I will verify this and will post an update once I verify it. It will take me a couple of weeks since I will go ahead and purchase some spark plugs and replace them as part of the task(since I can see I will have to remove bumper, etc). Thanks again and will let you know.

Best regards, Andres

Photos courtesy John D II (on Rennlist)

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In a few cases the mounting bracket has broken.

post-1-1229913552_thumb.jpg post-1-1229913547_thumb.jpg

post-1-1229913543_thumb.jpg post-1-1229913538_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings:

Just to post a little feedback regarding the issue. This week I had the chance to change the spark plugs for a new set of NGK BKR6EQUP units and at the same time checked the sensor. The sensor's holding bracket was in perfect conditions so I removed the sensor an cleaned it. At the same time I did some sensor testing by applying intermittent 12V charge to the solenoid and it actuated as it should. I also verified the plug's condition and it looked great. No physical ware and/or shielding damage(up to what it is visible). However, I saw that the sensor's plug terminals were not making appropriate contact with the plug since they were somewhat dirty(metal had like sulfate on it). So I clean it up and put everything back together. Since once i cleared the code it takes like about 2 to three start ups before the "CEL" appears, at this time I am not able to say If I fixed the problem. But I will let you know the outcome.

Happy Holidays!! Andres

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Well guys:

I'm afraid it didn't work. :( The P-1325 code came again. Doing some more troubleshooting, I hooked on the Durametric tool and I noticed that under the "Drive Links" tab of the software when I try to actuate the "Camshaft adjustment bank 2" feature with the engine on, there is no change in the engine sound. However, when I turn on the "Camshaft adjustment bank 1" button, the engine's sound does change as expected. Since I took out the bank 2(passengers side) solenoid and applied 12 volts and I saw the solenoid actuating, I understand that it is working correctly. Is there any way I may be able to inspect the solenoid's wiring? I know that there is a testing procedure for this solenoid as described in the repair manual, however i do not have a variable voltage power source to perform it. Can anybody give me some advice on this? Thank you.

Andres

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Well:

I disassembled everything again and this time, with the engine running I disconnected the solenoid plug and applied 12 volts straight to the solenoid and the engine changed its sound. This makes me think that the engine may be okay. I also measured the output voltage from the plug harness to the solenoid and it was reading around 9.4 volts consistently. Something curious was that I connected my computer and used the durametric software to use the "Camshaft adjustment bank 2" feature and I kept reading the output voltage without any noticeable change in value. Is there anything else that I might be missing here? Like for example any other feedback that may be needed to vary the voltage sent to this solenoid valve.

Andres

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  • Moderators

Great to hear the mechanism is OK. I would check the bank 1 values to compare with the bank 2 values, perhaps there is a voltage drop somewhere in the wiring or connectors, the solenoids are DME related.

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Interesting subject. I have found in the wiring diagram that there is nothing between the valve itself and the ECU. You must now do a continuity check between those two. I added 3 pics. One for the wire connection to the valve. The second one the wire connection to the ECU or DME and the plug number. And the third one is the color code. Hope this help. Please keep us inform and good luck.

post-29683-1231083460_thumb.png post-29683-1231083473_thumb.png post-29683-1231083482.png

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I am now a bit confused about the proper hydraulic valve you are testing because the one on the top of the cylinder head #25 of the parts catalog is for valve lift and #23 on the side of the head is for valve duration. Isn't that one you should test ? Because the fault P1325 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible it is not the valve lift as per P1344 or P1348.... Sorry for the confusion I am just trying to understand and help....To me the item #25 is the hydraulic valve to operate the tappet to get 3.6 mm or 11 mm lift and item # 23 is to retard or advance the camshaft....Don't hesitate to tell me if I am in the mud :unsure:

post-29683-1231085768_thumb.png

post-29683-1231086518_thumb.jpg

Edited by jpflip
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Greetings guys:

First of all let me thank you for joining in because you don't have an idea of the frustration I am going through. I barely have put miles in this car and it makes me sad to think that I may have to send it already to a repair shop. Its always great to have people willing to provide their knowledge to help solve a problem. I really appreciate it. :)

JPFLIP:

Thanks for your comments. To my best understanding, solenoid valve #25 of bank #2 is the one that's creating my CEL. This is because with the Durametric tool I am not able to actuate it as I can with bank #1. And once clearing the P1325 code and trying to actuate bank 2 again with the durametric, It gives me the same code without any difference in engine sound. How ever, if what you are stating is correct, It is not a bad idea to check it too. Is there a specific way that it can be done or is it necessary to remove the engine to verify it??? :unsure: Just to clarify, I have only been working with valve #25. This means that if for some reason the correct solenoid to check is #23, I have been messing with the wrong solenoid all the time.

To update, since I cant help trying to find out the problem, I disassembled everything again in order to make a simple test that I haven't done before: switching solenoid #25 from bank 1 to bank 2 and viceversa. First, of course I went and compare them physically and saw their specs and they were identical. So i proceeded. Unfortunately, forcing bank 2 with the durametric tool gave me the same results. Which now makes me think that the problem is in the engine. Why? Because even though I previously stated that when I actuated bank 2 solenoid by applying a direct 12 volt voltage to it, the engine sound wasn't similar to bank 1 when triggered. I am starting to be afraid that I have purchased a car with a hidden fault. :unsure:

RFM:

I know that I can see several data with the durametric tool. But can you tell me exactly what values are you mentioning and at what RPM's would be optimum so that I can run a log and post it?

Thanks, Andres

Edited by Iceyankee-Tsi
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Thanks RFM I feel better now... Poor IceYankee-Tsi you have to start all over again and you probably will found out a faulty hydraulic valve or better just dirty.... Anyway the part# is 996-105 -363-71 and it is about $163.00...Sorry this replied came before I have read your last post IceYankee...

Edited by jpflip
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Andres,

Unfortunately i'm not confident with the Durametric tool, i don't know what the tool can do or not, i used only the factory standard PIWIS with a lot more options. Sorry about that, i hope you can pin point the problem.

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JPFLIP:

You don't have an idea how much I wish you are right. However, is there any block of instructions on how to check this solenoid. I have the perception that it is more involved than sensor #23 due to accessibility.

RFM:

I will log all the values related to bank 1 and bank 2 available in the software at idle and post it in order to see if there is what we need for comparison.

Thanks, Andres

Edited by Iceyankee-Tsi
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What you did with sensor #23 was perfect troubleshooting. Don't be discourage you were just looking at the wrong hydraulic valve. Let me do some search about this actuator ccamshaft hydraulic valve....Be back....

Edited by jpflip
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Sorry but I was not able to found the removal and installation of this unit. The one for the tappets is in the repair manual but not the one for the cams. I have found good pictures on Imagine auto site Engine removal. It will give you exactly the location and a good view of the unit itself...On the second picture the valve is in the top right corner but is it possible to check it with engine in place...I don't know and I cannot check on my car because it is in hibernation....

post-29683-1231093334_thumb.jpg

post-29683-1231093211_thumb.jpgf...

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Hi JPFLIP:

Thank you for those pictures and the link. I verified it and I have it completely visible from the engine compartment. However, I don't know how easy it will be to remove it. Now I need a way to test it. There is a way to test it and after looking at the solenoid's picture, I can see that it is quite possible that oil passages may clog, preventing the expected action from occuring. I will let you all know the outcome.

Andres

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Why don't you just do like you did with the other valve in your previously post. Apply 12 volt on the connector of the hydraulic valve while the engine is running at idle and see if there is a change in engine rpm or if the engine is rumbling. It is exactly what Durametric would do. And if there is a change you know your problem is wiring to the DME. If there is no change you know it is the valve either dirty or malfunctioning....You getting closed to a solution Andres!

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You bet I did JPFLIP!!!

I did 4 things:

1. Read the actual voltage sent to the solenoid with the engine at idle= 9.4 volts.

2. Applied 12 volts to the solenoid with the engine shut down- It does work.(It ticks)

3. Connected the durametric and actuated the camshaft adjustment feature and nothing happened. Even thought by measuring with my multimeter I could see that the DME voltage sent to the solenoid was oscillating between 9.4 and 12 volts. Which should make the solenoid work. But there was no change in engine sound.

4. Applied 12 volts directly to the solenoid with the engine working- No change in sound.

Which takes me to the point of removing the solenoid and looking for dirt or obstruction in the solenoid orifices and/or its housing. However, this doesn't look that easy due to space constraint. Since I know the solenoid is actuating, this is the only possibility I see left. Of course I would like to switch the sides of the solenoids like I previously did with the camshaft valve lift solenoids, but bank 1 solenoid is out of sight and since it is already complicated to check bank 2 I guess I will have to decline doing it.

Andres

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