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'75 911S for restore


ericinboca

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I am going to look at a 1975 911S soon to possibly buy and finish a restoration on it.

Current owner says he has had a reputable shop rebuild both the motor and transmission and has all the detail on that.

Body is not is great shape, but nothing that cannot be fixed.

What should I look into on the motor and tranny rebuild? Searching the forum I have found these items - what am I missing?

* has the CIS air box been replaced or has a pop off valve been fitted

* does it have an eleven blade cooling fan

* were the head studs repalced with reinforced ones

* were the chain ramps inspected or replaced/were they replaced with new covers with a built in oiler

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I am going to look at a 1975 911S soon to possibly buy and finish a restoration on it.

Current owner says he has had a reputable shop rebuild both the motor and transmission and has all the detail on that.

Body is not is great shape, but nothing that cannot be fixed.

What should I look into on the motor and tranny rebuild? Searching the forum I have found these items - what am I missing?

* has the CIS air box been replaced or has a pop off valve been fitted

* does it have an eleven blade cooling fan

* were the head studs repalced with reinforced ones

* were the chain ramps inspected or replaced/were they replaced with new covers with a built in oiler

I had a 1976 911 S (until 2000).

Look for the last (stronger CIS airbox) - it should be 911.110.904.00. But still get a pop off valve.

Look for corrosion around the battery chassis contact area in the front trunk. Getting this fixed (re-welded) can be pricey.

Check to see if the car was a California car. Those cars had a different cat and ran hotter. These cars tended to cook the valve covers so consider replacing them with the Turbo ones (which I think is all they sell now).

If the car has been lowered then see if they adjusted the steering rack for the lowering (or there will be binding).

Otherwise I think you have covered the big things.

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I am going to look at a 1975 911S soon to possibly buy and finish a restoration on it.

Current owner says he has had a reputable shop rebuild both the motor and transmission and has all the detail on that.

Body is not is great shape, but nothing that cannot be fixed.

What should I look into on the motor and tranny rebuild? Searching the forum I have found these items - what am I missing?

* has the CIS air box been replaced or has a pop off valve been fitted

* does it have an eleven blade cooling fan

* were the head studs repalced with reinforced ones

* were the chain ramps inspected or replaced/were they replaced with new covers with a built in oiler

I had a 1976 911 S (until 2000).

Look for the last (stronger CIS airbox) - it should be 911.110.904.00. But still get a pop off valve.

Look for corrosion around the battery chassis contact area in the front trunk. Getting this fixed (re-welded) can be pricey.

Check to see if the car was a California car. Those cars had a different cat and ran hotter. These cars tended to cook the valve covers so consider replacing them with the Turbo ones (which I think is all they sell now).

If the car has been lowered then see if they adjusted the steering rack for the lowering (or there will be binding).

Otherwise I think you have covered the big things.

sounds good.

he has a refurbished Bosch K-Jetronic Continuous Injection System tuned to a new moyer tank (no pop off valve)

new head bolts

an 11 blade fan

a rebuilt battery chassis

will have to figure out if it was orginally a calif car - probably not as it is here in FL

not lowered

appreciate the input

wonder what it should go for

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  • Admin
I am going to look at a 1975 911S soon to possibly buy and finish a restoration on it.

Current owner says he has had a reputable shop rebuild both the motor and transmission and has all the detail on that.

Body is not is great shape, but nothing that cannot be fixed.

What should I look into on the motor and tranny rebuild? Searching the forum I have found these items - what am I missing?

* has the CIS air box been replaced or has a pop off valve been fitted

* does it have an eleven blade cooling fan

* were the head studs repalced with reinforced ones

* were the chain ramps inspected or replaced/were they replaced with new covers with a built in oiler

I had a 1976 911 S (until 2000).

Look for the last (stronger CIS airbox) - it should be 911.110.904.00. But still get a pop off valve.

Look for corrosion around the battery chassis contact area in the front trunk. Getting this fixed (re-welded) can be pricey.

Check to see if the car was a California car. Those cars had a different cat and ran hotter. These cars tended to cook the valve covers so consider replacing them with the Turbo ones (which I think is all they sell now).

If the car has been lowered then see if they adjusted the steering rack for the lowering (or there will be binding).

Otherwise I think you have covered the big things.

sounds good.

he has a refurbished Bosch K-Jetronic Continuous Injection System tuned to a new moyer tank (no pop off valve)

new head bolts

an 11 blade fan

a rebuilt battery chassis

will have to figure out if it was orginally a calif car - probably not as it is here in FL

not lowered

appreciate the input

wonder what it should go for

Check Bruce Anderson's valuation articles in Excellence Magazine for pricing.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I am going to look at a 1975 911S soon to possibly buy and finish a restoration on it.

Current owner says he has had a reputable shop rebuild both the motor and transmission and has all the detail on that.

Body is not is great shape, but nothing that cannot be fixed.

What should I look into on the motor and tranny rebuild? Searching the forum I have found these items - what am I missing?

* has the CIS air box been replaced or has a pop off valve been fitted

* does it have an eleven blade cooling fan

* were the head studs repalced with reinforced ones

* were the chain ramps inspected or replaced/were they replaced with new covers with a built in oiler

I had a 1976 911 S (until 2000).

Look for the last (stronger CIS airbox) - it should be 911.110.904.00. But still get a pop off valve.

Look for corrosion around the battery chassis contact area in the front trunk. Getting this fixed (re-welded) can be pricey.

Check to see if the car was a California car. Those cars had a different cat and ran hotter. These cars tended to cook the valve covers so consider replacing them with the Turbo ones (which I think is all they sell now).

If the car has been lowered then see if they adjusted the steering rack for the lowering (or there will be binding).

Otherwise I think you have covered the big things.

sounds good.

he has a refurbished Bosch K-Jetronic Continuous Injection System tuned to a new moyer tank (no pop off valve)

new head bolts

an 11 blade fan

a rebuilt battery chassis

will have to figure out if it was orginally a calif car - probably not as it is here in FL

not lowered

appreciate the input

wonder what it should go for

Check Bruce Anderson's valuation articles in Excellence Magazine for pricing.

yes, and check Jim Schrager's article on the 911sc's in the July, 08 Panorama. more good info on what to look for in an older, classic, 911. best....

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PCA's website has a wealth of info and experts in each area that you can ask questions to.Bruce Anderson is the Senior Technical Advisor.

There are also registers for most models and there is one for 74/75 model.

cannot remember when the chain tensioners were upgraded to be lubricated. And yes, the ramps the chains run on should be replaced unless there is documentation that lists that it has been done.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just restored a 1975 911S that I've owned for 29 yrs..

1. First of all you want to make sure that the top and bottom end was done and case sent out to a replicable machine shop.The major issue with the 75's was the mag case and head studs, but if properly rebuilt the 2.7 is a great engine. I added an external oil cooler and went with Carrera oil pump. I replaced the heat exchangers with SSI heat exchangers, the updated hydraulic tensioners, airbox with popoff valve and replaced the warmup regulator with the Unwire tool unit which works great. If these items have been addressed then you can have a solid car mechanically. :thumbup:

Edited by wpriller
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Thanks all.

I went up and inspected this car. It was close to being right mechanically - a few things to do to it, but close. The body (and the interior) was a disaster. I judged I would need to do a "body off" restoration to get it right. I wasn't adverse to it, but based on my interaction with Bruce Anderson (I gave him pictures, etc.) it was overpriced. Seller would not budge.

I'm still looking around casually. I appreciate all the tips - it really helped me.

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