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Code P1411


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Newby here. To anyone who can offer advice, I would welcome it. My problem is a CEL and the damnable P1411. First time it came on, my PA mechanic ran the diag, cleared the codes and had me drive it and see what came of it. Thought I might have missed 3rd and went to 5th under load or something. Anyway, problem returned a few weeks later. This time he ran the diag, replaced air injection value (993-113-245-01) and that was that. Now, two months later and I have relocated from PA to San Diego and the light after month of driving here and there has returned. Dealer confirms same code and responds with a bid to tear the top end off and clean for $7k. Called my long time guy in PA and he says no way. The motor is fine; there is something else afoot.

What the heck is my next step?

Thank you for your consideration and willingness to give this the think.

Regards,

Newby in San Diego

Edited by Loren
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Did your PA mechanic drop the heat exchangers and ream/clean out the tubes as well as replacing the SAI valve? Do a search here, pcar.com or one of the other forums and you'll find info. on the entire procedure. Certainly worth a try b4 going to the expense of a top-end re-build. Good Luck!

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Did your PA mechanic drop the heat exchangers and ream/clean out the tubes as well as replacing the SAI valve? Do a search here, pcar.com or one of the other forums and you'll find info. on the entire procedure. Certainly worth a try b4 going to the expense of a top-end re-build. Good Luck!

thank you for your observation/suggestions. Really! Yes, he did and said that those tubes are clean. He said if you ran a white straw through it would come through the end white. Thus, my confusion about potential next steps.

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Suggest you do the "BMW Drive Cycle" to clear the ECU and get someone to check w/a code reader b4 re-test to ensure it's clear. The code just may have embedded itself and may require that you have a dealer or indy with a GT1 or AUTOLOGIC clear and reset your adaptives.

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Yep, "BMW Drive cycle" is a specific procedure you follow to make your OBDII ECU ready to pass inspection. Especially helpful if you've disconnected your battery shortly before an inspection is due. GOOGLE or BING to find the drive cycle procedure. If unsuccessful, let me know and I may be able to find a link for you.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I personally have never found the drive cycles to work. The key is to not let the car idle after initial start. The system checks for readings from the O2's as they pertain to the SAI for 90 seconds (with 5 seconds after starting), so the trick is to start and go, almost immediately. Don't let the revs drop below 1000 for the first 2 minutes. The cycles that check, need to run twice from cold to change to the "ready" state we are all after, so with luck you can clear the codes, drive the car normally and within time you are bound to hit all the necessary needs of the "systems check".

I've always found a track w/e to be the trick. I clear codes before I leave, and when I get back.........viola! Ready! :) Seems multiple WOT floggings does the trick.

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