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Porsche 996 wont start


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Hey everyone...I have been given the worst advice from some people, and had no luck on starting my car. This my first 996, it is a salvaged title and was in an accident from the passenger side. The passenger side has all been rebuilt. I never actually worked on one of these before, as I own a older 78 911 sc.

First I checked all the grounds they seem to be all fine, tried bypassing the clutch that didnt work, checked all the fuses there all good, replaced the battery that didnt work, I was given advice and noticed there was a bunch of plugs hanging lose underneath the passenger seat didnt know where they connected to..I thought the DME was missing, I asked a few people they said thats were the DME goes underneath the passenger seat (BULL**** it doesnt go there at ALL)..spend $500 on an dme off of ebay...only to realize the car already had a DME...its behind the passenger rear seat..wasted my money and time.

When I put the key in and try to start the car I hear the carborater clicking it wants to turn over but doesnt ignite. The wires that were under the seat..guess what they hook up somewhere a long the passenger side door pannel where that wire hooks up to give power to the dme..so I hooked that up...still no engine starting. When it was hit from the passenger side the people who rebuilt it left that wire loose. When I try to start the car manually the engine tries to turn over but doesnt ignite either..I can smell gas...The car has been sitting for almost 5 years.

I do not have a remote control alarm , somebody said maybe it could be the key not programmed properly as I have a wallet key. I dont know if it could be the ignition switch, or ignition relay (where is that by the way) or starter relays.

Im so lost guys...any advice/help would be so great... Oh the steering wheel airbag is deployed..could this be a potential issue...I dont think so?

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Under the driver´s seat there is the alarm module, do you have it? It must match the transponder which is located in your key (open the key to check if a smallish cylindrical piece is there).

Under the passenger seat there shouldn´t be too many cables, only the ones related to power seat controls and seat belt buckle...

Hey everyone...I have been given the worst advice from some people, and had no luck on starting my car. This my first 996, it is a salvaged title and was in an accident from the passenger side. The passenger side has all been rebuilt. I never actually worked on one of these before, as I own a older 78 911 sc.

First I checked all the grounds they seem to be all fine, tried bypassing the clutch that didnt work, checked all the fuses there all good, replaced the battery that didnt work, I was given advice and noticed there was a bunch of plugs hanging lose underneath the passenger seat didnt know where they connected to..I thought the DME was missing, I asked a few people they said thats were the DME goes underneath the passenger seat (BULL**** it doesnt go there at ALL)..spend $500 on an dme off of ebay...only to realize the car already had a DME...its behind the passenger rear seat..wasted my money and time.

When I put the key in and try to start the car I hear the carborater clicking it wants to turn over but doesnt ignite. The wires that were under the seat..guess what they hook up somewhere a long the passenger side door pannel where that wire hooks up to give power to the dme..so I hooked that up...still no engine starting. When it was hit from the passenger side the people who rebuilt it left that wire loose. When I try to start the car manually the engine tries to turn over but doesnt ignite either..I can smell gas...The car has been sitting for almost 5 years.

I do not have a remote control alarm , somebody said maybe it could be the key not programmed properly as I have a wallet key. I dont know if it could be the ignition switch, or ignition relay (where is that by the way) or starter relays.

Im so lost guys...any advice/help would be so great... Oh the steering wheel airbag is deployed..could this be a potential issue...I dont think so?

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I do have a alarm module underneath the driver seat its a m535, They key that I was given with the car is the one I shown in the picture, they call it a wallet key and I dont think there is a small transponder cylinderical shape on it.

your right there shouldnt be any cables underneath the passenger seat besides the ones for the seat, but for some reason the person who rebuilt it never hooked those plugs back to there original location. This why I was confused as those plugs seemed like they had to fit some kind of module, I later discovered that those plugs hook up to a connector to distribute the power from the front to the back where the Dme is located.

it could be because I dont have the right key? maybe bad ignition switch I dont know..I do get power from the ignition switch area, I dont have a tester either :(

any other advice my friend? Once again thank you for your help means a lot.

sincerly,

Gavin

post-50763-1263063782_thumb.jpg

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guys, ive been reading some of your suggestions and im having the same problem. I purchased a porsche 911 996 year 2000 I dont have the remote control only was given the key. Im having problems starting the vehicle, I have power to the starter and I hear the click of the carborator opening and clicking but wont fire up to start the engine. At first I thought there was no spark going to the coils, but I do have spark. Ive checked the grounds they seem to be okay, as well as the clutch, as I have tried to bypass it.

Ive tried turning with the key no luck, I manually tried to start the solenoid it tries to turn over but wont ignite. Do you think I need to demobilize the alarm perhaps to get it to start, or is there a reset on the DME i might have to take off the switch and plug it back in.

Something is telling it not to fire...any possible suggestions guys...im REALLY STUCK.

Thanx guys I really appreciate any help I can get

Gavint

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Indeed you have the a key, which really only open the doors, nothing else...

You have to contact Porsche stealership to get the matched key with transponder. Otherwise the car won´t start. The same key is your remote control. I´m afraid it will cost quite much, and you need to reprogram the key. Now the alarm blocks any attempts to crank the engine (I don´t remeber what id does exactly). The alarm might also prevent opening the forward trunk, engine bay etc. , although you open the door with a key.

The main wiring harness goes either side from front to back. On right hand side there is one main plug, on the left hand side three plugs, they go by the sills under the plastic parts. Maybe somebody didn´t bother tu put the wires into the right place?

It´s quite a project you are doing, I made a 3.8 S conversion to my MY 99 996 C2 cabrio, and I had to change all the old wiring, DME, alarm, A/C module...

Kare

BTW, I have some old electrical parts, wiring harnesses , Instrument cluster etc. from my car. If you need something, let me know

I do have a alarm module underneath the driver seat its a m535, They key that I was given with the car is the one I shown in the picture, they call it a wallet key and I dont think there is a small transponder cylinderical shape on it.

your right there shouldnt be any cables underneath the passenger seat besides the ones for the seat, but for some reason the person who rebuilt it never hooked those plugs back to there original location. This why I was confused as those plugs seemed like they had to fit some kind of module, I later discovered that those plugs hook up to a connector to distribute the power from the front to the back where the Dme is located.

it could be because I dont have the right key? maybe bad ignition switch I dont know..I do get power from the ignition switch area, I dont have a tester either :(

any other advice my friend? Once again thank you for your help means a lot.

sincerly,

Gavin

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Hey Kare, I can open the doors with the key. I can also put that key into the ignition and all the lights turn on..the ac works, the radio works, windows go up and down, all the pannel lights show. I can also open the trunk and the trunk lid. I can turn the key and I can hear the carborator flaps clicking but no start wont ignite.

I can unlock and lock the doors with the switch once the key is placed in the ignition. Your right Kare I do not have a remote, and Im not sure if the key transponder is programmed with my immobilizer or see if the key is programmed. I need a PST2 or PIWIS tester..does it go by any other names? If i can get this tester than I could program the key myself by using the learn codes.

yah your also right about the wires that go to the doors sills thats exactly where it goes. They didnt bother hooking it up.

If I need some of your old electrical parts or wiring harness I will let you know my friend. I need to find a way to test the vehicle first to see where the faults are.

Gavin

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Hey Kare, I can open the doors with the key. I can also put that key into the ignition and all the lights turn on..the ac works, the radio works, windows go up and down, all the pannel lights show. I can also open the trunk and the trunk lid. I can turn the key and I can hear the carborator flaps clicking but no start wont ignite.

I can unlock and lock the doors with the switch once the key is placed in the ignition. Your right Kare I do not have a remote, and Im not sure if the key transponder is programmed with my immobilizer or see if the key is programmed. I need a PST2 or PIWIS tester..does it go by any other names? If i can get this tester than I could program the key myself by using the learn codes.

yah your also right about the wires that go to the doors sills thats exactly where it goes. They didnt bother hooking it up.

If I need some of your old electrical parts or wiring harness I will let you know my friend. I need to find a way to test the vehicle first to see where the faults are.

Gavin

dude chill, no programming the key yourself, get the proper key from a dealer. the PIWIS/PST2 machines are very expensive and built for mechanics and dealers. did you buy this car without starting it ever or did it turn over at some point when you were present? i would explore these routes if this were my car:

1) get the original key

2) buy the duramtric tool

3) clutch pedal sensor (for when you press the clutch in for starting the car, assuming you are already)

4) spark plugs

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Thanks for your advice pal, really appreciate it. I know the piwis/pst2 testers are expensive $3000. I need a professional who can come and do on road service and bring the tester to my house so he can tell me all the faults and what necessary steps I can take to running the vehicle. Towing the vehicle and dealer fee's is not an option its way to expensive.

Before taking on this project, the vehicle was dismantled and had to be put back together...That being said never had an opportunity to start the vehicle and didnt turn over. Obviously it turned over before it was hit the accident, but after the accident and repairs I dont know anything beyond that point.

I'll take the steps you provided, Ill keep you posted my friend on the progress and see if anything works out. At the moment im stuck..untill I can get the original key or have the wallet key programmed.

Is there any way to bypass the alarm to just try to start the vehicle manually? this way Ill know the problem is just they key..and order one in...rather than buying original key spending $300 on it and then it turns out thats not the problem either.

Gavin

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You cannot "program" the valet key as there´s no electrics on it....

You will need the original key, otherwise the car won´t start: so be prepared to spend some $$$$´s on it. Triggering the alarm is rather complicated, and you can do a lot of harm. And please do not buy any keys from Ebay, unless they are completely new, you cannot reprogram them, as with the key comes codes needed to match the key. Without the codes you are lost.

However, as suggested on other post, you´d better to buy the Durametric software. You get fantastic support FREE, and they are very helpful. It cannot clear any fault codes with alarm, but at least it will tell you what´s going on....For example, if there is a problem with clutch switch.

Thanks for your advice pal, really appreciate it. I know the piwis/pst2 testers are expensive $3000. I need a professional who can come and do on road service and bring the tester to my house so he can tell me all the faults and what necessary steps I can take to running the vehicle. Towing the vehicle and dealer fee's is not an option its way to expensive.

Before taking on this project, the vehicle was dismantled and had to be put back together...That being said never had an opportunity to start the vehicle and didnt turn over. Obviously it turned over before it was hit the accident, but after the accident and repairs I dont know anything beyond that point.

I'll take the steps you provided, Ill keep you posted my friend on the progress and see if anything works out. At the moment im stuck..untill I can get the original key or have the wallet key programmed.

Is there any way to bypass the alarm to just try to start the vehicle manually? this way Ill know the problem is just they key..and order one in...rather than buying original key spending $300 on it and then it turns out thats not the problem either.

Gavin

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thanks everyone really appreciate the advice guys. I need to get my key programmed by a professional. Hopefully then the vehicle will start

If you can get your hands on a PST2, you should be able to program a new key. It's not that difficult to figure out how to operate the PST2, it just takes a little patience as the response time can be very slow for certain steps.

One thing that you will need from a dealer is the IPAS codes for your car in order to be able to program the key with the PST2. The dealer should be able to provide you with those codes if you can show proof of ownership.

Regards, Maurice.

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One quick comment: don't buy a used key on Ebay, unless it comes with the original sticker with a barcode. Without this sticker, it won't be possible to reprogram the key. You'll really have to buy a new from your dealer.

I fully agree with the positive comments about Durametric. I haven't tried the newest version (my cable isn't compatible), but it pays for itself really fast.

Good luck

Laurent

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