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Sounds like my engine has rocks in it...


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I took my 1998 986 2.5L Tiptronic (approx. 135k miles) to have the oil changed Friday night. The mechanic poured in the the two 5 liter bottles of Mobil 1 5w40, I had to brought in myself and told me it looked like I needed to add a little more oil to the car. I added a quart the next day and the dip stick showed that the oil level was within range.

Two questions for everyone:

1.) Why would the engine be low on oil after pouring in ten liters, shouldn't the car only require 8.8L when changing oil?

***2.) Why does my CAR NOW SOUND LIKE IT HAS ROCKS IN THE ENGINE?

The noise did not start happening until Saturday night. The car had been driving perfectly, I was in park with the engine idling waiting for my gf to get her things together when all of a sudden the car began making this horrible noise and then shut off. I was able to start the car on Sunday morning, drive to the parts store to put in another quart of oil but then the noise was became so bad, I decided it was better not to drive any further. When I last checked the dipstick the oil level was even with the the top indicator marker.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what in the heck happened?

I just had my transmission rebuilt for $3K, sounds like I am going to need a new engine now. :(

Catalytic converter? Torn/Frayed belt?

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Uh,the rattle might be a sign that your IMS broke. Mine did the same and the engine was gone....

Don´t crank the engine anymore, until the cause has been investigated. Jack Raby is the expert on these issues, contact him.

Let´s hope for best!

I took my 1998 986 2.5L Tiptronic (approx. 135k miles) to have the oil changed Friday night. The mechanic poured in the the two 5 liter bottles of Mobil 1 5w40, I had to brought in myself and told me it looked like I needed to add a little more oil to the car. I added a quart the next day and the dip stick showed that the oil level was within range.

Two questions for everyone:

1.) Why would the engine be low on oil after pouring in ten liters, shouldn't the car only require 8.8L when changing oil?

***2.) Why does my CAR NOW SOUND LIKE IT HAS ROCKS IN THE ENGINE?

The noise did not start happening until Saturday night. The car had been driving perfectly, I was in park with the engine idling waiting for my gf to get her things together when all of a sudden the car began making this horrible noise and then shut off. I was able to start the car on Sunday morning, drive to the parts store to put in another quart of oil but then the noise was became so bad, I decided it was better not to drive any further. When I last checked the dipstick the oil level was even with the the top indicator marker.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what in the heck happened?

I just had my transmission rebuilt for $3K, sounds like I am going to need a new engine now. :(

Catalytic converter? Torn/Frayed belt?

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I took my 1998 986 2.5L Tiptronic (approx. 135k miles) to have the oil changed Friday night. The mechanic poured in the the two 5 liter bottles of Mobil 1 5w40, I had to brought in myself and told me it looked like I needed to add a little more oil to the car. I added a quart the next day and the dip stick showed that the oil level was within range.

Two questions for everyone:

1.) Why would the engine be low on oil after pouring in ten liters, shouldn't the car only require 8.8L when changing oil?

There is 8.8liters of capacity under normal conditions, but if there is an access to a location

that should not have oil in it -- than you could be filling it as well.

Check your coolant -- is there oil in there?

***2.) Why does my CAR NOW SOUND LIKE IT HAS ROCKS IN THE ENGINE?

It could be the IMS as folks have mentioned -- and it might not be completely gone yet.

so you might be able to save it.

It could also be a timing chain loose slapping against something as it looses tention -- think

of a loose bicycle chain slapping against its housing.

Unfortunately there are many possibilities. The two interesting points is that the engine

shut down and you were able to re-start it and drive it.

I would find a good indie and have them check on it .

where r u located?

mike

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I took my 1998 986 2.5L Tiptronic (approx. 135k miles) to have the oil changed Friday night. The mechanic poured in the the two 5 liter bottles of Mobil 1 5w40, I had to brought in myself and told me it looked like I needed to add a little more oil to the car. I added a quart the next day and the dip stick showed that the oil level was within range.

Two questions for everyone:

1.) Why would the engine be low on oil after pouring in ten liters, shouldn't the car only require 8.8L when changing oil?

There is 8.8liters of capacity under normal conditions, but if there is an access to a location

that should not have oil in it -- than you could be filling it as well.

Check your coolant -- is there oil in there?

***2.) Why does my CAR NOW SOUND LIKE IT HAS ROCKS IN THE ENGINE?

It could be the IMS as folks have mentioned -- and it might not be completely gone yet.

so you might be able to save it.

It could also be a timing chain loose slapping against something as it looses tention -- think

of a loose bicycle chain slapping against its housing.

Unfortunately there are many possibilities. The two interesting points is that the engine

shut down and you were able to re-start it and drive it.

I would find a good indie and have them check on it .

where r u located?

mike

The car broke down in Costa Mesa, CA. I am having it towed over to Der Vagenmeister on 16th street at the moment. One thing I did not mention in my original post was that at no point did the Thermometer ever indicate the car was overheating.

Will it be necessary to drop and disassemble the motor in order to determine if there is in deed a problem with the IMS or timing chain? If so would it be prudent to go ahead and have these parts replaced while the engine is out? Thanks for the reply.

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If the IMS bearing failed it would have given you no warning before failing (overeheating etc>)

I hope you are able to save the engine without a complete rebuild. They will be able to tell if it was an IMS without a complete engine teardown. The IMS flange is exposed once you remove the clutch and flywheel. You will only know the damage once you pull it apart.

By the way 135k on one of these engines is pretty good if that is any concellation.

Good luck and keep us posted

Edited by phillipj
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If the IMS bearing failed it would have given you no warning before failing (overeheating etc>)

I hope you are able to save the engine without a complete rebuild. They will be able to tell if it was an IMS without a complete engine teardown. The IMS flange is exposed once you remove the clutch and flywheel. You will only know the damage once you pull it apart.

By the way 135k on one of these engines is pretty good if that is any concellation.

Good luck and keep us posted

If they understand the M96 engine -- they can check engine codes and check timing before

they have to pull the engine.

They can check compression as well. I've got a boroscope I use to look inside the cylinders

to see if there has been any valve contact with the pistons.

You can also check the oil and coolant to see if there are signs of intermix.

Just because you have intermix does not mean you will overheat.

These steps might indicate the issue -- but if not then the transmission and engine

can be lowered and separated and at that point you have access to the IMS

flange and you might be able to determine if it has issues there.

Starting the engine and listening around is possible -- but if something is on its last legs

and gives out and it takes the engine with it, you might have been able to detect

and save/replace before running the engine -- you'd be kicking yourself.

good luck with it and keep us posted. helps everyone the next time around.

I'm still learning and this board is always helpful.

Mike

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Do not fire this engine up again until it is diagnosed by someone who has a clue about the internals and modes of failure of the M96 engine. The engine has symptoms that are not favorable and it is at the point where seconds could literally determine it's life.

Engines fail daily without overheating.

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Do not fire this engine up again until it is diagnosed by someone who has a clue about the internals and modes of failure of the M96 engine. The engine has symptoms that are not favorable and it is at the point where seconds could literally determine it's life.

Engines fail daily without overheating.

Engine is toast. :( Any advice for where to get a new one?

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Do not fire this engine up again until it is diagnosed by someone who has a clue about the internals and modes of failure of the M96 engine. The engine has symptoms that are not favorable and it is at the point where seconds could literally determine it's life.

Engines fail daily without overheating.

Engine is toast. :( Any advice for where to get a new one?

How was it determined that it is toast?

M

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Do not fire this engine up again until it is diagnosed by someone who has a clue about the internals and modes of failure of the M96 engine. The engine has symptoms that are not favorable and it is at the point where seconds could literally determine it's life.

Engines fail daily without overheating.

Engine is toast. :( Any advice for where to get a new one?

Talk to Dan Aspesi at Speed Gallery in Studio City, CA.

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