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is my engine on the way out?


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Hi

I have a 2002 targa with 99,500 miles. (500 miles until the extended warranty runs out).

Last week I'd run out for a sandwich at lunch - took the scenic route so the car as nice and warm when I parked it.

Car has run perfect entire time I've owned it except for a weird episode last week where I heard what sounded like pinging at 3000 rpm. I got off the gas and it stopped and I couldn't recreated it.

Anyway, came out of sandwich shop 20-25 minutes later, start car and begin backing out when engine quits with what sounded like a bang/shudder. I was confused what happened as I'm not one to stall the car, and actually got out to see if I'd hit or run over something. Not finding anything, got back in and tried to start; the car turns over fine and would catch briefly but failed to run. very, very rough sounding, for a split second it would run, sounded a little like marbles in the engine. (light had not gone off for me at this point as I had not read all these reports on IMS failures). Temp. of engine at this point was still 180 deg.

let car sit for 10 minutes, same problem. Called a tow truck (first time in about 15 years) and waited over an hour. tow truck driver made me try it again - same result. brief catch, ultra rough run for a second or two at 500 rpm, then dies.

towed the car to the dealer that works on it - explained the story (5pm now) get the rental car and go home. Congratulating myself for having bought the extended warranty and having the good fortune to have this problem 500 miles this side of the end of it).

Get a call the next morning, the service tech says he has good news and bad news. Good news is that the car starts and runs normally. The bad news is that the car has thrown no codes and they have no idea why it stranded me.

Sounds like all bad news to me.

I asked him if they checked codes before starting it, and he claimed he didn't know, but the way he said it makes me think they did start it before checking. Will the Porsche clear a code if something wrong 'goes away'? I know the mercedes will clear some codes if they don't recur after 3 good starts.

The other factor that doesn't seem like it should have any bearing is that I'm still running my original clutch. The tech said that he thought that the car might have 'slipped timing' and then corrected itself?? how is that possible in a car with a timing chain? they are replacing the clutch and going to do a number of test drives next week. I asked then specifically to warm the car and then let it sit for 25 minutes to see if that has any effect.

I REALLY don't want to have this engine grenade at 100,005 miles. ANY suggestions for a better diagnosis now or means to recreate this problem???

Many thanks,

Ken

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One follow-on to my first post - I just read the topic of another poster who's car jumped time and which couldn't be diagnosed because he has an aftermarket stereo.

I have the Harmon Kardon TrafficPro radio that looks exactly like the Porsche CD23(?) in my car - would that explain why they couldn't read the code?

If they pull the radio, would the code still be readable?

Thanks again,

Ken

Hi

I have a 2002 targa with 99,500 miles. (500 miles until the extended warranty runs out).

Last week I'd run out for a sandwich at lunch - took the scenic route so the car as nice and warm when I parked it.

Car has run perfect entire time I've owned it except for a weird episode last week where I heard what sounded like pinging at 3000 rpm. I got off the gas and it stopped and I couldn't recreated it.

Anyway, came out of sandwich shop 20-25 minutes later, start car and begin backing out when engine quits with what sounded like a bang/shudder. I was confused what happened as I'm not one to stall the car, and actually got out to see if I'd hit or run over something. Not finding anything, got back in and tried to start; the car turns over fine and would catch briefly but failed to run. very, very rough sounding, for a split second it would run, sounded a little like marbles in the engine. (light had not gone off for me at this point as I had not read all these reports on IMS failures). Temp. of engine at this point was still 180 deg.

let car sit for 10 minutes, same problem. Called a tow truck (first time in about 15 years) and waited over an hour. tow truck driver made me try it again - same result. brief catch, ultra rough run for a second or two at 500 rpm, then dies.

towed the car to the dealer that works on it - explained the story (5pm now) get the rental car and go home. Congratulating myself for having bought the extended warranty and having the good fortune to have this problem 500 miles this side of the end of it).

Get a call the next morning, the service tech says he has good news and bad news. Good news is that the car starts and runs normally. The bad news is that the car has thrown no codes and they have no idea why it stranded me.

Sounds like all bad news to me.

I asked him if they checked codes before starting it, and he claimed he didn't know, but the way he said it makes me think they did start it before checking. Will the Porsche clear a code if something wrong 'goes away'? I know the mercedes will clear some codes if they don't recur after 3 good starts.

The other factor that doesn't seem like it should have any bearing is that I'm still running my original clutch. The tech said that he thought that the car might have 'slipped timing' and then corrected itself?? how is that possible in a car with a timing chain? they are replacing the clutch and going to do a number of test drives next week. I asked then specifically to warm the car and then let it sit for 25 minutes to see if that has any effect.

I REALLY don't want to have this engine grenade at 100,005 miles. ANY suggestions for a better diagnosis now or means to recreate this problem???

Many thanks,

Ken

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Check for cracked header. It might let fluid get into cylinder(s) and cause hydro-lock. Then you stat the car and the coolant has to come out of the cylinder thus the bang. If bad luck, then a cylinder might break crack. A cracked header will set you back 2k. A cylinder 10k (complete rebuild).

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