Low Coolant Light

[logray]

Hey Robert, I probably wont be around tomorrow but Im sure other people will be here to help.

If you want to look at PET, go to www.autoatlanta.com and click 911 at the top, then 996 hard parts...

[ALLSPEED]

Thanks Bro-That looks like the place. Take care,Robert.

[ALLSPEED]

Now I am really confused because from that chart Loren got from a TSB I believe said that the only condition for 1 HZ flashing lamp was a bad coolant temperature sensor. So I was ready to order the sensor. We originally thought that the flashing light was just low coolant or bad purge fan. They were both suppose to throw a .5 hz flashing lamp. I took out 3/4 gal of coolant to see if a low coolant condition would flash at .5 instantly without warming to 200f. Well the light immediately came on and flashed at the 1HZ rate. So now what is the problem since a low coolant condition is flashing at the wrong rate. Here's the video. any more ideas. I appreciate every one and hate to just guess. Thanks, Robert

Edited September 24, 2011 by ALLSPEED

[logray]

This is a very difficult problem. Strange problems like these that don't seem to follow documentation.

I read somewhere that you had your car serviced by Jake Raby???, have you tried contacting him regarding this problem? Perhaps he has some sort of warranty program.

I know this is going to be difficult for you, but I would start with the two sensors. They are cheap and relatively easy to do.

Replacing both those sensors are insurmountably easier and less expensive than replacing the wiring should that be the cause.

Most of the evidence points towards one of those sensors.

You don't really want to go down the path, but if the instrument cluster is the problem that is also a major PITA and expensive as well, compared with the sensors.

edit: the DME is also quite expensive to deal with compared with those sensors, if that is the problem.

Cheers man, I am hoping this is an easy fix!

:cheers:

Edited September 25, 2011 by logray

[ALLSPEED]

Yes I had it trucked back to Jake Raby's in Georgia back in Feb. If he was out here I would take it to him now. Not that I am blaming him for the problem but it didn't start happening until the first time I drove it for a while on a hot summer day after I got it back. He is a really nice guy and I think one of the best around. The reason I sent it to him is I found some little bits of metal in my oil filter. I sent off oil samples, took pictures and like my "flashing light" nobody knew what it was from. I couldn't find anyone out here who didn't want to just R&R another engine. Raby & Charles Navarro from L&N leaned toward IMS bearing of course and Wayne Dempsey and Tony Calles weren't sure. So I went the bearing route. He did the IMS retrofit procedure and the bearing was in good shape. This also included the extras like clutch,throw-out bearing etc.. Also had a discolored by heat flywheel so I got a used one. He drove it and drove it and couldn't find any more metal. I told him to keep driving it. Then he found some. Tore open top end and found very worn Vario Cam Pads and replaced them and # 4 &5 timing chains.He also replaced all 24 lifters, plugs, air-oil separator among other things. The thing related to the coolant is that he replaced the water pump. He leaned toward the level sensor but that was before I did all this testing. I will try and get a hold of him before I order the two sensors. He knew of no way to test the level sensor and if there were it would just as hard as changing it. I thought I would be free of problems for a while but here I am with another " no one is sure". This poor little car is driving me crazy with all the unknown problems. I'm still accepting ideas. BTW- I put the coolant back in the tank and when I started it the light quit flashing and didn't start flashing until 100c and the engine purge fan came on at 78.5c. I can't get the connector all the way back on the temp. sensor. It has four little blades that line up and make contact but doesn't go all the way to latch. I will see if you can order just the plug without a harness and with a new sensor it should go back together. This one should go back together. Any ideas on that. Thanks, Robert.

[logray]

I know Raby works with some other shops and I was thinking more along the lines of bringing it somewhere local and having him pick up the tab.... not sure if that would be covered by his work - for example perhaps he crimped a wire or something was damaged during the engine work. It might be worth a shot???

In any case, it sure is fun working on a 12 year old car, isn't it??? You think a 12 year old car is fun, try working with a 20 year old car like my old VW.

Sooooo.... about your connector, I had the same problem with mine, and a new sensor solved the problem. I don't think you can source just the connector, so you don't want to damage that if you can help it...

A few more thoughts.

After watching the videos a bunch more times I don't think it is 1 second. I think it is every 2 seconds, so one of these two conditions. This is just my opinion of course. Hard to tell from the videos for sure.

1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz)

2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty)

At this point I would think it is not the water temp sensor especially since the light didn't change when you unplugged it and the gauge went down but the light continued to flash... the 1 timing was perhaps a red herring?

I wonder if it is the engine compartment temp sensor. Check out this post for the location of all the sensors: The engine compartment temp sensor #12 in the post below is very easy to access on top of the passenger side intake manifold. Dead simple to reach in and unplug it and observe the light on the dash. You might have to remove the airbox to get your arm in there. Of course, disconnecting it may or may not make the light flash, since it might have to get up to temp and if it can't read one... again kinda going back to the "just replace it" syndrome. Then again, perhaps you could blow a hair dryer or heat gun on it and monitor with Durametric to see if it behaves somewhat logically. Or even multi meter it and ohm it out. Then again, there are few specs like sensor ohm ranges avaialble to the public.

http://www.renntech....post__p__206679

Another idea is to disconnect the engine purge fan on the engine lid (also dead simple to get to) and see if it flashes at the same frequency again when up to temp, and/or even maybe when trying to activate with Durametric to see if it flashes. Be careful getting it up to temp though without this fan, I would be prepared to perhaps get a fan nearby and blow it into the engine bay if you have the engine comp. purge fan unplugged.

It is interesting your engine bay fan is running though... I keep going back to that for some reason. I've read that it runs on track cars that are driven hard, but for the normal driver it is unusual. I've had my car out around Sacramento area in 100+ degree temps and it hasn't ever come on, even after I've parked the car.

Another lingering thought in the back of my mind is a air in your cooling system, although I'm positive Flat 6 would have used a vacuum fill tool to mitigate that, but perhaps the flashing is telling us the engine really is getting to hot.

Edited September 26, 2011 by logray

[ALLSPEED]

Well, yippee ki-yay. I want to thank Logray and Loren and all others who helped me with this problem. Logan- There is a reason you kept going back to the engine blower sensor. You solved the problem but keep your fingers crossed. I looked and looked for the sensor. Not where it was supposed to be. Got a mirror and flashlight and looked where it was supposed to be, down between the intake manifold. It was machined for a grommet which wasn't there. I search and found it hanging with the grommet. I think it never got put in place after valve work by Dealer because it is a real tight fit. Had to use WD40 to get it back in slot. Ran the engine and the highest I could get it was 103c but no light. I am 99% sure this was it because earlier I unplugged the fan at the motor and the light came on at 92c. No matter what problem I simulated it always flashed at the same speed. I want everyone who has read this thread to remember the fix because this was a dog to troubleshoot.

I haven't been able to take her out on the street because I still can't get the connector on the coolant temp. sensor to lock. Surely it will vibrate apart. Logray said he had the same problem but a new sensor connected fine. I really don't want to replace that one as it works but just lacks a sixteenth to lock. Any of you guys have any ideas. There are four flat pins and must be aligned properly because they make contact to work but can't close to latch. Thanks again to Logray for thinking of so many different scenario's to check and staying with me on this one. I now feel a weight off my shoulders except that darn connector. Thanks Guys.

[logray]

Right on man glad you got it sorted!!!! :thumbup:

Sorry to send you on a few wild goose chases... those videos really helped me get the timing of the light, and is usually a great remote troubleshooting aid !!!!

If you get your hands on a new coolant sensor without even installing it first see if it clicks in to the connector better...

:clapping:

[whall]

Robert,

Have your Porsche technician (not the parts guy) check his “Porsche Electrical Connector Repair Kit” for the replacement parts or at least a part number for plug or connector you need. The entire repair kit is known as CARTOOL – Nr 96 0 000 or PNA 721 043 600. It is full of connectors the parts guy would like to sell you the entire wiring harness for.

Bill

[logray]

I'm interested in buying "PNA 721 043 600", but it sounds like it is NLA from Porsche.

I'm wondering if there is a replacement or alternate part.

[Loren]

Check some other dealers as it was still available in May this year - someone might have stock.

[logray]

Thanks Loren, I'll give a few more sources a chance.