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I've got a narrow body 997.1 C2 Cab and want to space the wheels out a bit. The wheels are stock 5 spoke carrera 18" with 10"/58mm in the rear and 8"/58mm in front. It looks as if 7mm spacers would bring both front and rears to the outer wheel arch edge, but thought I would ask the Forum members what experience they might have had.

Thx, Lyn

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I agree with White987S, the OE Porsche kit is about as good as it gets. Includes a spacer that will bolt onto the mounting pad of vehicle (you will barely know it is there), along with the requisite longer factory style bolts. BTW, the car has quite a bit of room of room, if you want flush to fender you may consider going out 10mm. I don't know if Porsche makes a 10mm kit but companies such as H&R do. The only caveat is that their supplied bolts may not match your OE front bolts so I would ask that question before ordering.

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B I G G E R spacers means more unsprung weight and more stress on your wheel bearings. The 5mm OEM Porsche kit is very nice and gives you about a 1/4 inch to better fill the wheel arches. No difference in hadling since my name is NOT "Patric Long".

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The key here is the lug nuts. Porsche and the aftermarket all make lug bolts in a 5 mm oversize accomodating the OEM 5mm spacers. So, if you do not want to get into trouble with lug bolts stick with the 5 mm spacers. I have them on my car and they do the trick. If you are tired of crappy galvanized lug bolts check out TiKore industies. Solid titanium lug bolts in stock or 5mm over sizes. Both single and two piece designs. Beautiful forever!! (enlarge the picture to the left)

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If you are tired of crappy galvanized lug bolts check out TiKore industies. Solid titanium lug bolts in stock or 5mm over sizes. Both single and two piece designs. Beautiful forever!! (enlarge the picture to the left)

I really like those, but IIRC, they are about $500/set?? :) Very nice product.

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They go for anywhere between $500 and $650/set depending on whether you get one piece or two piece lugs with or without locks. The locks weight exactly the same as the lugs. The set weights almost 1/2 less than steel lugs and they NEVER rust. If you use a wheel cleaner that is acidic(the purple stuff)they can tarnish. But, they buff right out just like silverware. Sonnax and P21S are fine. I got the single piece lugs as I keep the lugs and wheels pristine. Porsche uses the two piece lugs because they torque more consistently under a variety of conditions mostly when they are all crudded up. Titanium likes to gall so you always use antiseize. Given the price of Porsche lugs and the fact that they look crappy to begin with and eventually rust anyway I think that the Ti lugs are a bargain. They have a beautiful satin rose sheen that will last forever. Uwon, I actually think they will make you lug nuts in custom sizes if you have the bucks! Tikore is also now selling the worlds first totally carbon fiber rims.

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I want to correct my previous post. I have 7 mm and 14 mm (not 15) spacers with 52 mm and 60 mm bolts.

Here are some pics. This is a 2006 2CS

Top left-rear profile, no rubbing since installed 3 years ago. 305's

Top right-front spacer

Bottom left-rear spacer

Bottom right-front profile





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Uwon, we have the same wheels, mine were painted black. Your front looks fine but those rears would worry me up here in New Hamspire. We have terrible roads (lots of pot holes). I have to true at least one wheel a year. Bending a fender is no fun. Also, I would worry about road rashing the leading edge of the rear bumper cover. I would cover them with polyurithane film. Also, you always point the apex of your Porsche crest wheel centers directly at the valve stems. Keeps you from getting into wrecks :-]

Edited by Mijostyn
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Thx to everyone for your input. There is nothing like this Forum for great technical input from folks that speak from experience. Because I'm running 18s with the narrower 265 width rear tires I decided on 7mm on the front and to risk 15mm on the rears. Suncoast sells RSS spacers in kits and they self center on the hub and include the longer lug bolts. I spoke to Suncoast before I ordered them and feel pretty comfortable that the thicker rears will work without them sticking out into the wind. If they end up being to much of a good thing, I can always sell them because 15mm seems pretty popular on the 6Speed Marketplace forum. I'll post some pictures after I install them.


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Mijostyn, bent wheels are not fun. I have been fortunate so far to have avoided this with mine.

With the standard Porsche alignment the tires will not rub even under the deep compression experienced at our home track, being entry to corner #5A at Mosport. The geometry simply will not allow it. I have driven the car over 50k miles with those spacers over some pretty bad roads in both Canada and even over parts of the old Route 66 all the way to California. So from my perspective it works for me and should for most.

In the spring we have lots of left over sand and gravel from our snowy winters and, yes, cars get lots of gravel rash. Years ago I tried lining the fender edges of my cars with clear 3M plastic with lousy results. I found out that if the paint has already been marred, then a thin strip of 3M would not hold. I now use Wurth's gravel guard which can be touched up or removed with Varsol and some elbow grease. Works for me and you can't really see it unless you are changing a wheel.

I don't particularly care or notice the additional unstrung weight of less than one lb per corner. What I like is how the well are filled and the wide stance view from the rear, especially with the 305's.

And about those wheel crest, you caught me on that one. I was recently asked to point the crests down for a photo shoot. Only a car nut would notice! :)

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Good to know Uwon. I was not aware the wheel retracted so much under compression.Wurth does make great products and a spray on solution is certainly much easier than installing film.I always do the rear of the front fender well of all my cars as this is a classic place for Porsches to rust. I have never had a problem with adhesion and can blast away with a pressure washer without lifting the film. I also have lots of experience putting this stuff on. You are right in that even a moderately rashed surface can cause problems however, I extend the film down over the bottom most section of the well that is coated with stone guard under the paint. Adhesion is fine but what happens over time is road grime migrates under the film through the depressions in the paint which can look a little crappy. Every year or 2 I just change that section. Here is a picture. post-89070-0-83717700-1372343568_thumb.jYou can just barely make out the rear edge of the film. Notice at the bottom you can see a black line running right over Porsche's stone guard. That is road grime that migrated under the film there. That is also right where the car takes the most abuse. First I design the sections using mock ups with craft paper. Once I get the fit right I transfer the shapes to 1/4 inch plywood and cut them out. Now I have permanent templates. If I need a new section of film I just lay the template down on bulk film and wiz around it with a very sharp knife. Takes just a minute. Installing the film is another matter. These templates will make film that fits the fender well of any 997. For those interested just PM me. I can send craft paper forms from which you can make plywood templates. Bulk film you can buy from ClearMask or InvisibleMask online. They also have DIY videos for installation. Starting with these small sections is the way to go. Once you get use to it you can tackle the larger stuff.Car nut Uwon? PORSCHE NUT!

Edited by Mijostyn
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Installed the spacers today, 7mm on the frone and 15mm on the rears. I think that I made the right coice and welcome input. Pretty hot out there today; 105 and I'm glad that there were only 4 wheels to do. Got pretty tired by the end.





Edited by Lyn
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