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Any idea how to replace the actuator lock on the rear tailgate/lid/trunk/hatch?

Part number 15 on the diagram below.



The actuator used to automatically engage each time the rear lid/truck/hatch was closed.

Now when the lid is closed, the tailgate fault shows on the instrument panel.  The actuator does not initiate.  Rear tailgate does not appear open or ajar.  No interior lights illuminated.  From other posts found and confirmed all fuses and relays are functioning properly.



Thanks in advance.






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Visual inspection: In the next troubleshooting section, please check first that the affected pins on the rear convenience system control unit plug connection are neither damaged nor corroded. The wiring and plugs of the affected components must also be checked for external damage and correct contacts. Repair damaged or corroded pins if possible, otherwise replace affected pins. Repair or replace damaged wires.



Sporadic faults: In the event of faults that occur sporadically, the wiring positions that are linked to moving parts on and in the vehicle must be checked for each system. Various statuses that can cause faults must be simulated with the help of the wiring diagram.
Battery voltage: A battery voltage of between 11.4 and 14.5 V is required for the following troubleshooting procedure. This must be checked and provided, if necessary. On the vehicle electrical system, the voltage to the fuse (input side) must be guaranteed.
This one is very important because Cayennes' do very strange things when the battery is weak or low.
In the rear lid area (right) of the wiring harness there is a 10-pin plug connection that must be included in the checks.





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Press down the spring loaded cover in the latch area and be sure there is nothing trapped in there, I've pulled screws, bolts and other rubbish from it which has impeded the closing function.


Removed the entire panel where the spring loaded cover is attached.

Found the latch itself was loose.  


Would the position of the latch have anything to do with the actuator function?

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Yes it could have. If the latch isn't fully engaging the clasping mechanism then the micro switch inside the unit won't be triggered to operate the soft close function. You should be able to see the original bolt marks and set the latch to them.

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Press down the spring loaded cover in the latch area and be sure there is nothing trapped in there, I've pulled screws, bolts and other rubbish from it which has impeded the closing function.


Removed the entire panel where the spring loaded cover is attached.

Found the latch itself was loose.  


Would the position of the latch have anything to do with the actuator function?

To test the system you can simulate the door closing as follows.

With the door open, you can push the door mounted central latch closed with your finger. 2 stage clicks as you move it to the left.

When you do this the latch actuator under the spring loaded cover should run and pull in the hook.

To release, pull the switch on the door and both the latch on the door and the actuator under the spring cover should run.

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Appreciate the simple and effective approach - actuator works fine...





Appears the latch was loose for awhile.  Not obvious where the latch was originally positioned.

Have yet to hit the magical spot through multiple placements trying to position it properly



How likely is the latch to fail ??

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  • 2 years later...

The above post was very helpful, and it was just about the only resource I could find on line.  By way of thanks, I offer the following additional details, in hopes of helping the next guy in my former predicament:


Attached is a photo showing my old (bottom) and new (top) striker plate assemblies.   The old one is rusted around the base of the hook, and frozen in the open (out) position.   Operating the latch on the (open) hatch, as advised by Bigbuzuki above, had no effect at all.  Before I found B's posting, nothing else I saw on line even suggested that the hook should move; but it becomes obvious on inspection of the striker plate assembly, with its electrical connections and housing, that it has a motor (and perhaps a sensor). 


I replaced the assembly with the "new" part shown in the photo ($35 on ebaY) and it is operational again!   When the hatch is opened, the hook moves to the open (out) position; the motor runs audibly, but the operation of the hook is not visible.   Operating the latch as above causes the motor to run audibly once again and to pull the hook to its closed (inward) position, as shown in my "new" latch at the top of the photo. 


Also attached is a photo of the bottom of the stainless steel sill plate, with its little hinged cover, which covers the striker plate and which must be removed to access itCayenne-trunk-sill.JPG.  In fact, removal is necessary just to see that there is actually a striker plate assembly, and not just a hook, beneath.   Visible on the photo are four white plastic pins which engage female counterparts on the sill, and which simply pop apart . . . if one knows where they are, and where to pry.   Looking at the top of the stainless steel plate gives (almost) no hint; only after one has removed the plate does one see two tiny pinch weld marks at the location of the cross braces and pins shown in the photo.  These mark the locations where I found I was able to insert pry bar(s) beneath the rear edge of the plate (top of photo) and pop the plate off.


Thank you, Bigbuzuki, and good luck to the next pilgrim!


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  • 1 year later...

I have a very similar problem but I cannot get my manual release to open my hatch.  It is stuck in the closed (almost since helper motor didn't pull door all the way down) position.  Moving the manual release doesn't work.  Any ideas on how to get the latch released so I can get the door open to begin trouble shooting mechanical issues.  All fuses and relays have been checked and there are no problems there that I can find.

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Well.  I posted on Rennlist, Renntech and 6speedonline.  Got no responses for repair ideas so I came up with one.

I took the multitool cutter to the latch and removed it.   Appeared to have a failed part internally.    Part that actually releases the hook was non functioning.

Soft close motor works as it should when microswitch is activated.

Porsche should have made a provision for removing the latch mount inside the car rather than weld it on.  

First photo shows latch in situ.  See how the mount is welded to door.  If it were bolted on, you could remove the latch mount from the door and get the door open, cut the bolts holding the latch to the latch holder that was previously bolted to the door and just replace the mount and latch rather than cut the whole bugger apart.






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  • 7 months later...

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