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Door Lock Mechanism question


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All,

I have decided to replace the door lock mechanism and the window microswitch on my passenger door in order to try to eliminate my alarm system problems. I have a thread here and on 968forum and pretty much it seems that the problem is with the microswitches, probably the window one, but possibly the door lock ones.

So, I looked on Pelican and they have the part number as 8N1-837-016-C-VAG. A quick search on that shows it is a shared part with Audi TT (and others) and possibly Volkswagons as well.

Is that accurate?

Thanks, John

Edited by jpc763
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Were you able to check for any fault codes with a Durametric?

 

Are you having any problems with the passenger door window not dropping properly? 

 

Or the Central Locking Switch?  (The central Locking switch is the top right black rocker switch on the dash center console)

 

Or just a double beep when locking the car?

Edited by kbrandsma
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Were you able to check for any fault codes with a Durametric?

Are you having any problems with the passenger door window not dropping properly?

Or the Central Locking Switch? (The central Locking switch is the top right black rocker switch on the dash center console)

Or just a double beep when locking the car?

Passenger door is the problem. The central locking switch works. The problem is intermittent.

I know it will occur when the red light on the rocker is lit and the double beep when unlocking.

I have never gotten a fault code from the durametric. It always show clear.

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After the double beep does the red LED on the rocker then go back on?

 

I replaced the door handle mechanism (which contains/includes one of the microswitches)  and that did the trick.

 

Here is an excellent DIY Tutorial by Board Member Richard Hamilton on Carrera microswitches, that are identical for the Boxster, that should be helpful to you!

 

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/217-door-microswitches/

Edited by kbrandsma
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I've got the double beep with switch light remaining problem, too, and think I have the part to replace the existing problem part.

 

Just an FYI, this winter I've noticed that the problem does not occur in cold weather.  One day when it was still cold I parked the car where the sun hit the driver door for an hour and the problem reoccurred.

 

Whatever the circuit that's broken in the mechanism, it's a pretty small break I think!

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I've got the double beep with switch light remaining problem, too, and think I have the part to replace the existing problem part.

Just an FYI, this winter I've noticed that the problem does not occur in cold weather. One day when it was still cold I parked the car where the sun hit the driver door for an hour and the problem reoccurred.

Whatever the circuit that's broken in the mechanism, it's a pretty small break I think!

I have that same observation. Winter it doesn't happen but now that spring is coming, the frequency is increasing.

What part do you have? Door lock mechanism?

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If you get a double beep then you have an alarm zone fault.

Durametric, Porsche PST2, or PIWIS can tell you exactly where the fault is.

I highly suggest you use one of those to further diagnose - otherwise you are just guessing and that can get expensive.

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If you get a double beep then you have an alarm zone fault.

Durametric, Porsche PST2, or PIWIS can tell you exactly where the fault is.

I highly suggest you use one of those to further diagnose - otherwise you are just guessing and that can get expensive.

I have a durametric and have checked the alarm fault codes. The software shows no codes.
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If you have two beeps then there IS a fault.

Sorry, but you will likely need a Porsche diagnostic tool to see it since Durametric does not.

I will check again and post results. I have confirmed that my Durametric is authentic and the correct version so it should show alarm faults.

I assume that alarm faults will stay in the OBC until cleared.

Thanks, John

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Yes, they will stay in the alarm control module until cleared.

Whether Durametric is working or not two beeps is always an alarm system fault. One beep is a just an open zone.

I called Durametric and determined what the issue was.  I now have codes!  I did not clear anything as I wanted to get input.

 

Here is the list.

 

post-97678-0-46511300-1457114582_thumb.j

 

I know why code 54 is there but what do the other codes tell?

 

John

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It is my understanding that the yellow are Alarm Fault Codes that are currently not present  (STATUS - not present)  and the red are fault codes that are currently present. (STATUS - present)

 

Both yellow and red have the number of times they have occurred (occurance).  You fix the red ones to turn them to yellow and the yellow cannot be cleared/erased.

 

Fault Code 33 and Code 34 passenger side are the interior infrared sensor located above rear view mirror.

 

Fault code 34 - Passenger compartment monitoring sensor, short circuit to B+ or faulty
Possible cause of fault
- Short circuit to voltage in the wiring between the alarm system control module and the passenger compartment monitoring sensor
- Passenger compartment monitoring sensor faulty

Fault code 46 - Central locking synchronization
Possible cause of fault
- Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks
- Door lock faulty

 

Fault code 60 - Central locking limit position - locked not reached
Possible cause of fault
- Switch for central locking faulty
- Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, switch for central locking or door locks
- Driver’s/passenger’s door lock faulty
- Control module faulty

 

Edited by kbrandsma
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It is my understanding that the yellow are Alarm Fault Codes that are currently not present (STATUS - not present) and the red are fault codes that are currently present. (STATUS - present)

Both yellow and red have the number of times they have occurred (occurance). You fix the red ones to turn them to yellow and the yellow cannot be cleared/erased.

Fault Code 33 and Code 34 passenger side are the interior infrared sensor located above rear view mirror.

Fault code 34 - Passenger compartment monitoring sensor, short circuit to B+ or faulty

Possible cause of fault

- Short circuit to voltage in the wiring between the alarm system control module and the passenger compartment monitoring sensor

- Passenger compartment monitoring sensor faulty

Fault code 46 - Central locking synchronization

Possible cause of fault

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks

- Door lock faulty

Fault code 60 - Central locking limit position - locked not reached

Possible cause of fault

- Switch for central locking faulty

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, switch for central locking or door locks

- Driver’s/passenger’s door lock faulty

- Control module faulty

This is excellent, Thank you!

Does Durametric order the fault codes by recent occurrence?

Looking at the occurrence numbers

Fault 47-51 times

Fault 61-109 times

All other codes are 1-4 times.

The problem I have happens a LOT.

Would replacing door lock mechanism be a logical next step?

John

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Sorry, you can get those faults by hitting the lock button before the door is closed or before the door is closed completely and the window is up.

As I said before I think you should clear all the codes and then re-test.

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It is my understanding that the yellow are Alarm Fault Codes that are currently not present  (STATUS - not present)  and the red are fault codes that are currently present. (STATUS - present)

 

Both yellow and red have the number of times they have occurred (occurance).  You fix the red ones to turn them to yellow and the yellow cannot be cleared/erased.

 

Fault Code 33 and Code 34 passenger side are the interior infrared sensor located above rear view mirror.

 

Fault code 34 - Passenger compartment monitoring sensor, short circuit to B+ or faulty
Possible cause of fault
- Short circuit to voltage in the wiring between the alarm system control module and the passenger compartment monitoring sensor
- Passenger compartment monitoring sensor faulty

Fault code 46 - Central locking synchronization
Possible cause of fault
- Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks
- Door lock faulty

 

Fault code 60 - Central locking limit position - locked not reached
Possible cause of fault
- Switch for central locking faulty
- Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, switch for central locking or door locks
- Driver’s/passenger’s door lock faulty
- Control module faulty
 

 

 

Sorry, you can get those faults by hitting the lock button before the door is closed or before the door is closed completely and the window is up.

As I said before I think you should clear all the codes and then re-test.

 

I received a response from Durametric.  They asked me to generate logs while I checked the Alarm and sure enough it worked this time.

 

I took a screen capture of the logs and then pressed clear logs.  Once that operation was complete, I was back to my problem of no data.

 

Here is a shot of the March 3 Alarm Codes

 

post-97678-0-50190400-1457625133_thumb.j

 

Here is a shot of the March 9 Alarm Codes

 

post-97678-0-49876700-1457625142_thumb.j

 

Note that 3 of them (circled in red) have incremented in the last 6 days.

 

Code 47 has incremented by 2

Code 61 has incremented by 4

Code 33 has incremented by 1

 

I will check again today but the lock system has been behaving itself (although this morning I could not lock the car with the lock button on the key head  :cursing: )

I am again at the point where I think that replacing the door lock is my next logical step.

 

John

Edited by jpc763
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It sounds like it.

 

I've read on some boards that the Jetta (2006-2010) MK5 door lock mechanism is the same part. OEM VW parts are less than $50 USD shipped. Part number 3D1 837 016 AC or 1TD 837 016 A.

 

Perhaps someone else has seen or tried this and can chime in.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

Edited by kbrandsma
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Sorry, you can get those faults by hitting the lock button before the door is closed or before the door is closed completely and the window is up.

As I said before I think you should clear all the codes and then re-test.

 

After lunch today I hooked up the durametric and was able to see faults again so I rant the test requested.

 

Here are 3 images.

 

Yesterday

 

post-97678-0-29124300-1457643042_thumb.j

 

Today after clearing faults and pressing lock/unlock

 

post-97678-0-75847600-1457643053_thumb.j

 

Again after another test of pressing lock/unlock

 

post-97678-0-57948100-1457643054_thumb.j

 

Anything conclusive from this?

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It sounds like it.

 

I've read on some boards that the Jetta (2006-2010) MK5 door lock mechanism is the same part. OEM VW parts are less than $50 USD shipped. Part number 3D1 837 016 AC or 1TD 837 016 A.

 

Perhaps someone else has seen or tried this and can chime in.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

The Jetta lock for 2006 is the same part as a 2001?

 

John

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