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Hello Deenes,


Aways chek the level and use water with some adctive to avoid corrosion intead coolants (is this a problem?) 


About second question: the two past tanks had problem in the same area... behind the tank side near of the body's car right in the junction (imend) of the two parts (up and down)  of the tank. Seem the component the building process seems to be two parts embedded and glued



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31 minutes ago, Marcio Nascimento said:

Some people said this component already blowed up

So this is my suspecting over some material problem. But don't know if others components could cause this kind of incident too.

Either your car inst isolating the heat from the engine properly, which I find weird, or the coolant that you are using doesn't have the appropriate chemicals, and destroys the blending of  the two parts tank while under pressure and heat.


If you want to use a good coolant, that you use straight there, because is already blended with water, you may use motul inugel optimal (orange) or glysatin G40 (Pink).


Other thing you should check is the tubes, 3, 8, 13, for breaks, compression against other parts that doesn't allow it to pass the fluid with the appropriate flow, or twists. 


If you have a photo, show me, so I can try to help you! 


No fumes or funny smell from the exhaust?


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Deenses ,

Thank you very much to send the squema above... I am going to install the new tank and make a double checking in the tubes (some weeks seemed well).

As good coolants are very expensive I am going to put demineralized water, go working with the car for some weeks and observe temp and leaks. If everything OK, I replace to coolant.


What do you think? any risk to tank damage again?


Normally the temp reaches 110 ceusius into the jam and in a road around 95... Doses it seem ok?

Puley, pump, fans, termostat,... seems to work OK. But I cannot ensure 100%. I prefer think in a material trouble in the tanks.


If there is any other issue I cannot see.

That will be difficult to me.  ? 



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Just to add to what Dennes33 has advised, you should completely drain and flush your cooling system prior to finally putting in coolant/distilled water. A mixture of the residual additive that you earlier put in and coolant could have unwelcome consequences.

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@Marcio Nascimento


I don't like to put normal water even though it's demineralised due to the fact that the boiling point of water is much lower than the coolant one. This said, I believe that you have to add water on a routine, since the high temperatures will make it to boiling point and by doing so, transforms water into condensation and so forward it creates pressure inside the cooling system. 

I don't advise it, since it may be the main purpose for your reservoir to crack due to the increasing pressure inside it. (Compare it to a boiling stove)


I have a 955 S, and mine even on traffic jam doesn't go over 85-90 degrees Celsius, so that may be one of the reasons why you are running it on water makes it to boil further. 

Notice that I am not aware of your country or climatic conditions. 

I live in Portugal, and during the summer, we have 30 so degrees Celsius.


If the engine heats relatively fast, would say, water reaching 80© in 5-8 minutes would be normal, the oil takes around 12-15 minutes on my car, driving it normally.


I completely agree with @wizard, don't mix water or rest of coolant you might have with some good coolant. It will destroy its properties and probably another tank.


Even though I only use coolant, the pressure inside the tank is already too high!


@TCokerjr68, I know.for me 110 © is too high, the material wears out faster. Me neither! When reaches 90©, I already wonder what might be wrong.


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Thank you all....


In fact there was a misture in the radiator.... from now I will replace 100% of the liquid (22 liters) from mix to coolant (green or pink Peak  -  https://www.peakhd.com/product/peak/automotive-antifreeze/ )

And observe with attention the variation of temp in the car in different conditions. When it reaches more than 95° celsius I will stop and investigate more.


I dont have vaccun equipment in the city I live so I will add new coolant in the tank and when the car heats and pump acts I get the return hose (number? out till purge all old water in the system.

When new coolant starts to leave the return hose I stops the car and reconnect in the tank.




Latter I tell you the results...


Very glad!





Edited by Marcio Nascimento
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Marcio, with respect, that is not the way to go about it.


I would strongly suggest that you search YouTube for a video tutorial on draining a Cayenne cooling system and follow that.


Whilst I'm not familiar with PEAK products, I believe that their pre-diluted (50:50) 'Global Lifetime' coolant would be OK. It would, however, be advisable to confirm that.







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