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Instrument cluster completely dark and gauges not moving.
How to save $5000 in 3 easy steps.
2002 Boxster S
Here is my story, the problem AND THE SOLUTION.
I have a 2002 Boxster S which was sitting for approximately 6 months unused. As you might expect the battery was dead when I went to use it. It was easy to jump with a portable jumper starter. The car started right up and it was easy to drive. However, when I stopped to get gas, the dashboard instrument cluster went crazy and all the idiot lights came on. Even though I had driven the car for about a half-hour the battery was dead, so being prepared, I use my portable jumper starter. The car started up fine, however all the idiots lights stayed on. The instrument cluster otherwise worked. Drove home, left the doors slightly open so that I would not get locked out, and open the hood so I could get to the battery, then turned off the car. Shortly thereafter drove to get a battery, but now all the idiot lights were on and the instrument cluster was completely dark. Gauges were not moving. Nothing! The battery was replaced while the car was off. After restarting with a new battery, the gauges were not moving, the instrument cluster was dark and now only the check engine/oil pressure idiot light was on. Drove home and turned the car off. However, the check engine/oil pressure idiot light stayed on, even though the car was off. I asked my local mechanic who recommended, "Just take it to Porsche". So I called the Porsche dealer, who could not take the car for a week, but figured it needed a new instrument cluster and after diagnosing fees and the all the other fees and costs would be a few thousand dollars. So, I decided to search the web. I did not find an example exactly like mine, but after my research it seemed that the main computer might have been confused by too many low-voltage signals since the battery was weak. I was sure there had been no overvoltage situations or sparks. I had little to lose, so I thought I'd try the following which worked!
Tools needed: 10 mm socket wrench and portable jumper starter.
Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench.
Reconnect the negative (black) cable to the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench.
If needed use the portable jumper starter to start the car.
Smile and save $5000.
The instrument cluster is working perfectly and all the idiot lights are off, even the radio works! Hope this helps someone else!
Hi all 986 guys.
I will post for the first time.
I have '98 986K(Tip-s),Can I swap 5-Speed(or 6-Speed) manual transmission?
In other words, prepare missions, pedals, manual transmission CPUs, etc. like a typical car model (for ex, BMW).
Is it possible to update only the mission, not the upgrade to 3.4L?
Has anyone ever seen or heard of such a vehicle?
I can find 986K 5speed as much as I want, but I want to stick to my one.
1999 986 2.5 Boxster. (5 spd)
Not many problems with the car but cruise control doesn’t work and the spoiler only extends halfway or so.
Current actual problem with the car is that I can feel vibration or shaking in the steering wheel (and in the car to a much lesser extent) after shifting into fourth gear. After shifting into fourth gear, the shaking seems to persist even as I slow down, or after shifting into fifth. It will persist even if I shift into neutral but will stop after I come to a stop.
It’s strange to me that this is the case when gears 1-3 don’t have this problem. I am guessing that it’s an issue with bearings or alignment in the front wheels since i’m feeling the vibrations in the wheel but hopefully someone here has a better idea.
Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after. Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has?
Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V? True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle. Thanks in advance
The rear window on my 2001 S has separated from the canvas, and the tan top is dingy and past its prime. I no longer have a garage, so I am forced to outsource it. I would appreciate some informed opinions.
I'm looking at a GAAH A5 Acoustic glass window top. The dealer is saying $2,700-$3k installed. A reputable convertible/interior specialist is coming in at $2,200. The dealer talked about needing to buy additional sound insulation, clips and etc., which is either building in additional profit, or it may be totally justified because they have experience and might provide additional quality. I don't have an excess of cash for a 18 y/o car so I'm soliciting experienced opinions:
Assuming the local top specialist is truly skilled at their game, should I expect that they can handle this, along with connecting the heating element? I doubt they have done many A5 Acoustic glass retrofits, whereas the dealer has likely done a few. If I go with the local specialists, are there some unique things I need to specify they order/replace/pay attention to? Should I give more weight to (a) Porsche dealer that only occasionally does a top or (b) the people who do tops all the time, but just not Porsches?
All informed opinions are welcome.