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Engine to body ground strap replacement


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I have had electrical gremlins over the years, and have chased them in several different ways and frequently, things improved but then, occasionally they come back. The two specific gremlins are ABS/PSM lights coming on at warm idle and windows lowering on its own, car unlocking and interior lights turning on.

I won't bother going through everything I have done chasing these things but the fact is that I just measured the voltage drop from alternator to body ground and I got 0.471V which is excessive. Also, cold start, I only have around 13.5V at the battery and it creeps downwards. I also have an alternator regulator coming for good measure since the battery is also dead/dying and the voltage at the battery, engine running fluctuates. That's cheap and easy to replace.

Now, has anybody replaced their engine-to-body ground strap? If I remove the vacuum pump, oil filler neck and right intercooler hose, would I be able to get access to the strap's top nut to replace the thing or does this require an engine drop?

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Thanks! Any specific recommendations to do this job?


The Service Manual has nothing on this, except as a part of the engine removal/installation procedures as well as the torque specs. Also couldn't find any DIY on this, maybe I'll do one myself as I go along finding out how it can be done.


I couldn't find out in the PET what are the nuts P/N that go with the strap and I normally replace nuts whenever I change old ones and I suspect these won't be in a good shape. Any idea?

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We always did it on a lift with an engine support bar under it before we undid the mounts.  You only need to drop it a couple of inches to make getting at it much easier, not out of the car.  Usually, the nut on the ground is not in bad shape, and a quick spray with a good penetrating oil always helps. Just be sure to wipe it off before putting it back together again, and put a small dab of anti seize inside the nut.

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