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1. With DIY info so plentiful and so complete (thanks, Orient Express), I started in without reading the TSB. A mistake, as evidenced in #4, below.

2. I had the bumper off anyway …. replacing due to collision … but would strongly agree with those who say the 15 minutes required to remove bumper cover and heat shields is time well spent … especially for someone who has never removed the mufflers on a 996. Everything is simply easier to see and reach …. especially drilling holes in heat shields & routing & connecting vacuum hoses / clamps to actuators.

3. I found a short handled (4”), fine tooth, 3/8 ratchet to be very helpful in removing the 13 mm nuts on the backs of the muffler holders.

4. I struggled somewhat attempting to mount the new mufflers … until I went back and read in the TSB: “Note: For MY 99 through 01, the new mufflers can only be fitted using the existing muffler holder on the engine.” So, as usual, struggle, back up, read the instructions, then proceed again.

5. At least one poster advised leaving the holders in place and, instead, removing the mufflers only by removing the 2, long, vertically oriented bolts holding each muffler to its holder. On my car (MY 00), this was not physically possible, as the longer of the 2 bolts would not clear the body in order to be pulled upward and removed.

6. If you over tighten the very small hose clamps used on the metal braded vacuum tubes at the mufflers, the tiny screw will break.

6.a.. NO ONE in Atlanta has hose clamps that small.

7. Skip all the instructions regarding replacing one of the rubber sleeves on the intake system with the one supplied in the kit. Just do like Orient Express and use a Y-connector in one of the existing vacuum nipples.

8. I ignored most of the TSB regarding practically dismantling the car interior to run the wires. It is not necessary. Others have documented the short cuts so I won’t repeat here.

9. The step requiring removal of the “rearmost screw in the fuel collection tube” in order to mount the vacuum tank stumped me for a while. The picture in the TSB makes it appear as if the location is almost alongside the battery terminal. In reality, it is several inches forward of the terminal, and difficult to see under various wires and hoses.

10. If you twist the wrong way while removing the left end of the Relay Carrier, the mounting bracket will break.

10.a.Super Glue will not repair a broken Relay Carrier mounting bracket

11. The pin numbers on the face of the new relay holder are TINY and white on white. Rub a pencil lightly over them, and the numbers will be much easier to read as you go.

12. Like others have reported, my last connection of the single RE/BU wire to the fuse block at B10, was a problem. The attached connector (female spade) did not work, so I was forced to splice the wire into another (RE / BK) wire coming off fuse B10.

12a. When the TSB refers to "2 RE/BU" wires coming from the dash switch, they really mean "3". Having the total electrical schematic in front of you really helps at this stage.

13. Like others have reported, the instruction to place the GY/BU/BN wire at the 5/2 position of relay block 28 was incorrect. Relay block 25 was the correct spot.


14. When all is said and done, the dash switch will not work …. if you have not plugged the electrical connection into the vacuum switch in the engine compartment …. where you had left it hanging for the heat shrink tubing to cool.

* Most important lesson: never attempt any project of this magnitude without quick and easy access to RennTech.

I’m certainly no expert, but will be glad to answer any questions that I can for someone attempting this. Just email for a phone number.


2000 Cab

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Congratulations on your successful install. Since you live in Georgia, the switch will come in handy on Sunday mornings during "quiet time", or when you are stuck in traffic on GA400.

I'm glad my experiences were helpful in getting you through your install.

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