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Need help with Porsche 993 Becker code model number 2595 serial number S5001185 thank you

Yes.

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Is the rearview mirror removal procedure the same for a Cabrio, specifically an '04 C4S Cabrio? Thanks in advance for your help!

I've (finally) removed the radio. Serial number update: W5002695 Typ: CDR 22 Model No: BE 4467. Thanks!

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Hi, unplugged my battery and lost radio code. Could you help? Thank you! Type: CDR 220 Model: BE 4462 Serial: Y5046746

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Hi loren Cdr210 lost code Per verse: r3297 serial #: w5022239 thank you

Where's the high pressure switch located? driver side cowl? on the compressor? under the car? under the seat? behind the tire? i found the one at the passenger side, cowl, at the cabin air filter, can't seem to find another....

Yes, you are correct I did not see the GT3 part - my bad.

Hi there! according to https://911virgin.com/engine-revs/ and other sources on a 996 GT3 - range 1 is 8200-8800 - range 2 is 8800+ so I hope I am wrong because that would be excellent. thanks !

Thank you!

Try 6872

I lost my radio code. Porsche 1997 993 Becker CR 210 sn: T5001840 stevek@pacbell.net thank you

Range 1: 7300-7500 RPM Range 2: 7500-7700 RPM Range 1 is likely hitting the rev limiter while accelerating. Likely safe. I would not worry about any of those Range 2 over revs either - likely one missed downshift could do that.

I'm curious, I just completed a plug & coil replacement on a 2011 Porsche 911 Turbo S [at 40K miles] , by myself, with a pretty basic garage and tool set and took me almost 10 hours over two days. The challenges I faced were substantially in removing the two rear heat shield bolts over the plugs on both sides, AND the three bolts on the passenger side VTG. While accessible, the quarters were very confined... BUT the big issues was the TIGHTNESS of these bolts... All of these bolts "pinged" when they finally broke free. The difficulty in getting the rear heat shield bolts restarted was also a time consuming challenge for me! Maybe I'm just out of practice working on cars?. Should these bolts be replaced, the ones that were so f*cking tight and "pinged" upon loosening? That is what took the two days.... I sprayed with blaster and WD-40 and let them set overnight? I used liberal amounts of anti-seize compound upon the reassembly... but??? I can't believe these bolts were not over-torqued... but maybe heat, and no anti-seize could have something to do with it?? The heat shield reassembly was my down fall the left side rear shield.... one bolt I dropped numerous times attempting to start with the tips of my fingers... one time the bolt didn't fall to the ground and spent about 1 hour looking for it with my little magnet. It was ultimately found on top on the exhaust header.... had to find it or I was done?? Could not find a comparable bolt anywhere in extensive collection of metric bolts... YIKES?!?!?! An E-torx socket with a wobble extension and a universal attachment wouldn't work on the heat shield rear bolt, used a 8mm box end hand wrench to loosen, held with a ViceGrip pliers & reinstall, just with the box end wrench... but a devil to get these bolts started....... but, Ultimately success! Strategies for a better process or tools are welcome.

Sorry, I am such a noob! 2004 996.2 GT3, now I got the details (I guess I overestimated my memory :-D); Range 1 approximately. 37000 ignitions Range 2 approximately 4200 ignitions @ 703 hours Car has now approx. 780 hours I checked with my PIWIS the cam. dev. and both are in norm at bank 1 - 0 degrees bank 2 - 3 degrees.

Model and year of the car please...

Hi there, I am considering a car Range 1 3000 ignitions Range 2 600 ignitions Should I be concerned ?

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BECKER1 CDR-220 W5010426 Type: 4362

Thank you boss you are an absolute saint!! Cheers

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