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Just be sure to get the latest version, we have never had any problems with the OEM replacements.

From your mouth to my ears! Done, thanks.

Factory.

2016 Macan S Ignition Coils Hi all. Changing plugs for 1st time at 52k miles and seems I should change coils as well. In addition to Porsche Genuine, several options available-Bremi, APR, Beru. Any recommendations?

Timing chain tensioners wear pads. I bought a neglected Boxster where the owner kept driving and the pieces eventually blocked the oil pickup and wiped out a rod bearing. You should change them even though they’ve likely been done once at that mileage.

No better sound than a sport exhaust on a Porsche!

That is just magic! Thanks. I mostly like to hear the engine purr but I do like to have everything working.

Try 9085

I picked up a 1998 Boxster and the radio code is nowhere to be found. Please help. Serial number is. V5016831 I looked through and tried all the codes listed with no luck. Thanks

I was just thinking about cutting the gray pink wire myself. Were you ever able to resolve this? Our stories seem very similar.

Just going to keep reporting on things that haven't resulted in a successful calibration. Fuses checked. Battery on charger and showing 14.34v. Mini switches in the latch cleaned, and all report anticipated actual values in PIWIS 38.25 with one exception. The switch depressed by the fork arm when the top makes contact with the windscreen frame reports results the opposite of expected values: when in the service position, it reports Convertible top raised. When manually depressed, engaging the switch, it reports Convertible top not raised. Back and forth, 1:1 with depressing and releasing the "fork." The one other anomalous actual value reported is speed which continues to show > 5kmh. Parking brake is engaged and that is reflected in actual values. Latch bench tests as expected: deploys under power, retracts when polarity is reversed. Then latch was reset per the FSM before reattempting calibration. Side potentiometer arm (reminds me of a large paperclip 🙂) is intact (unbroken) and captive by pin on hydraulic ram so that pot moves freely when the ram moves. (Not captive as in bound.) Side flaps lubricated and behave as expected (up and down) when actuated via drive links, with anticipated actual values reported. (Up is up, down is down). Hydraulic pump has fluid, no leaks, and when power is directly applied, goes up and down (when polarity reversed) as expected. Clamshell motor has been disassembled and relubed and bench tests as expected. Installed, it seemed to be binding, so I completely disassembled the clamshell transmission. No broken cables or gears, and I cleaned out all the crud before relubing everything. With everything reinstalled, when power is directly applied to the motor, clamshell smoothly goes up and down (when polarity reversed). Potentiometer set to 6.24k ohms on bench; tests 6.28k ohms installed onto clamshell transmission on car. All points of the top frame that move have been lubricated with teflon dry lube. When the hydraulic fluid relief valve is open, the top can be raised and lowered by hand with no binding. When I depress the #3 microswitch (latching hook, windscreen frame) with my finger, the rear windows will go up when their respective buttons are pressed. When released, they will not. As expected. When attempting to calibrate, nothing moves and "Function inactive, end position not reached." Control module replaced with same part number: when attempting to calibrate, nothing moves and "Function inactive, end position not reached." I'm running out of ideas. It's as if every single component works exactly as I'd expect it to work, but in concert, the software is like, "nope." On a lark, I even asked Durametric to calibrate it. "ECU returned a negative response. Sub function not supported / invalid format."

2004 Boxster S. 165k miles. New to me. I found some small, black, plastic pieces (smaller versions of the one in the picture) in my oil filter after a recent oil change, and when dumping the old oil I found a single ferrous metal shaving (no more than a few mm wide). I drained the fresh oil and dropped the oil pan to investigate further. The picture is what I found in the pan. The dust stuck to the magnet came from the drained oil. The strips next to the dime were one piece stuck in the oil pick-up screen, and I'm pretty sure it is a piece of the sealant. The amber, glass-like bits are brittle and transparent and very smooth. Thoughts?

Try 2321

Hi there, Disconnected the battery on my new (to me) 986 with CR22. S/N is 15040196. Could I get the code please? Thank you!

Brilliant! Thank you!!

Try 6480

Need a radio code for s/n t5003851 please model CR210 97 986

The dash lamp for the top comes on during power on (bulb check) then goes out. And stays out. Always. No matter the state of the top. Latched, unlatched, service position, down and stowed. No light. That doesn't seem normal. I took the controller out and magnifying glassed it for obvious solder issues but came up with nothing. Not really a surprise, visual check isn't worth much.

Maybe related but check that you have this installed, its for cars in california and other restrictive emissions areas and its only 14$ and easy to install. Part number is 997 201 944 00 https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99720194400.htm?pn=997-201-944-00-OEM&fc=Y Article on how to install

Im a DIY guy and the key fob is the only reason i take my car to a dealership. They engineered this against global theft , which was a bigger problem in the 90s, but they require you to bring a title certificate and drivers license and then they program it (and your other keys if you have more than one. each has their own profile such that each key triggers customized seat-positions and stuff) for about one hour labor which costed me about 280$ They do require that the blade , if needing cut, be purchased through them as authentic, and charge 80$ i think on top of that. I went into the suburbs of my city where it was a bit cheaper and quickly done. they keep these in stock at all dealerships.

I just recently reqired those. each wheel has their own unique part number for the replacement which comes with connectors to splice in the five wires and replaces the main-connector. Best price i found was 130 each from Sunset Porsche. All four of the wheel sensors turned out to be just fine (and very difficult to remove and replace). Front: 996-612-957-00 Repair harness kit - (Left) 996-612-958-00 Repair harness kit - (Right) Rear: 996-612-953-01 Repair harness kit - (Left) 996-612-954-01 Repair harness kit - (Right)

It's solved now, this is what I did, and what I think helped. I am also using a Blaupunkt (110 Liverpool). Mine was 100% an alternator whine, so only when the engine was running. If yours is whining even without the engine running it's likely to be the grounding of the head unit. All the speakers I think use the chassis as the negative terminal (if I remember). So maybe just run a new grounding wire from the front bulkhead to the head unit, although if I remember the original unit used the original stereo bracket as the grounding point, so maybe there's somewhere to ground it near the head unit. For my car, the hypothesis I formed was that when the original head unit was installed, the ground for the amp was shared with the head unit. When that was replaced, I think the amp no longer shared the same ground / or didn't have a main ground. 1. So the first thing I did was to cut the ground wire on the amp and route it to a chassis bolt. That didn't help. 2. I then wired a new ground wire to the head unit and shared that ground with the amp. This didn't help, so I would do these two first steps only if the next few steps don't work. 3. I bought some ground loop insulators for the amp from Aliexpress and tried a few, some reduced the whine but didn't eliminate the whine. But I'm not sure if it was the heat or the load on the capacitors, they cut out the power to the amp intermittently after about 20 minutes of using the stereo. I changed it one that ended up being more stable. 4. I then bought another voltage regulator/insulator that connects to the head unit directly that I found recommended in an older forum post. I think that was the one that truly fixed it for me.

Hello, and if I may ... Following our first Cars'n Coffee here in my home town, I was forced to put my 986 'on hold' while I decided to fix or replace my transmission. The car is a '97 2.5 with an A86/00 transmission. A search locally has found a low mileage transmission from a 2001 S. A response from the seller indicates it to be an A86/20 transmission. Should I consider this change and what can I expect or may have to also replace with the 'upgrade' besides possibly the TCU Thanks!

Thanks, Loren—I had not noticed there are three microswitches in the latch, I'll look at that 3rd one next.

Hello Vic. Just saw this post of yours. Curious if you ever found the cause and a solution? I have a similar situation as you (2002 C2 Cab. with the M490 audio package). Curious - is the whine ONLY coming from the rear seat speakers? Mine seems to be. I've been trying for a LONG time to fix this, but haven't sadly figured it out. Not sure what the stock radio/head unit was, but the previous owner pulled it, and put and installed a Blaupunkt Beverly Hills 71 unit. I BELIEVE the stock CDR220 radio chassis is making contact to a metal "tab" on the left side of its dash mounting. directly next to THAT metal tab is the grounding wire of which you speak. SO it is POSSIBLE that your new head unit isn't making contact to that grounding tab. I didn't get a chance to test that yet on my end. In my case the "whine" is constant, unchanging with increase or decrease of radio volume, and has no correlation to engine rev. Matter of fact it exists even if only the ignition key is in the "ON" position.