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  1. Today
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  3. Thanks for sharing this. Is there a wiring diagram to check the wiring and pin connections? I am assuming I will be checking the MAF pins and some points in the fuse box.
  4. I'm going to remove and clean the injectors I think
  5. Last week
  6. Could be a bad MAF (or wrong MAF) or a bad connection. Check the wiring and pin connections also.
  7. So, after Loren, pointed it out. I reconnected my Durametric today and it did pop up two codes - P0120: porsche fault code 115: MAF below limit & P0107: porsche fault code 229: something about Ambient Pressure Sensor Looked them up and P0107 pointed to pressure in the intake manifold - checked the reading for ambient pressure sensor and it was within range at 1005 hPa (1.005 bar). Started the car and it did not change at all, even when RPM goes up to 3000. Is that normal? I deleted this code and drove around a bit (~4 miles) and rechecked the code did not come back. Measured the readings for Mass Airflow and Hot Film MAF and they are both in the range ~19 kg/h. Still disconnected the MAF and drove and it is little rough when idling but very smooth pickup from stop and NO STALLING". Then, connected the MAF sensor, the pickup is relatively jerky, but did not stall. MAF voltage is 1.2V at <1000RPM and ~3V at 3000 RPM Does it point to faulty MAF?
  8. Also, interestingly, if I just lift my foot off brake and let it roll, before accelerating - it works every time - no stalling.
  9. I bought this car in 2018 with ~30k miles. NO water intrusion since then. If it was there earlier I can't say. Having said that that is quite a few miles without that issue. Still I am curious as to what makes you ask that question. Are you thinking some electronics under the driver seat? Also, I am new to Durametric, and have only run the general scan for faults. Not sure if there is way to scan for individual components (not that I would know which component(s) to scan for in this case)
  10. Are you sure Durametric does not show any pending fault codes? Have you had any water intrusion? Wet carpets? etc.
  11. Hello there, I am new to this forum and may not be listing all the necessary information, so please let me know what other information is necessary to troubleshoot this issue. My 2000 C2 stalls when gassing from stop (esp embarrassing at traffic lights), it has 69K miles on it and I have tried to troubleshoot and replaced several parts but not able to pin-point the source of this issue. Happens to it when it is hot (>180 deg) or cold. It seems to have started after the fuel pump change. The following parts have been changed so far (within last 500 miles); - New fuel pump and fuel filter - New fuel pressure regulator - New MAF - New Throttle body Durametric (Enthusiast version) does not show any error codes. Any thoughts, much appreciated.
  12. Try 9432
  13. Serial # 5009357 - I added the 1 my apologies
  14. It's a 4462 if that makes a difference I did the code 0598 and it just tells me to WAIT
  15. Try 0598
  16. Hello. My 1999 Porsche Boxster battery went dead and now I cannot get my radio to work. I cannot find the radio code in my paperwork. It's a CDR 220 serial #W50091357 Thank you.
  17. WHT 000 324 hexagon head bolt (combi) 6X28 $1.75 each (US MSRP) - 11 required WHT 000 322 hexagon head bolt (combi) M6X12 $1.70 each (US MSRP) - 2 required WHT 000 321 hexagon head bolt (combi) M6X40 $1.70 each (US MSRP) - 3 required
  18. After months of research and diagnostics, it was determined that the valve body on my 2013 CS, (207k miles), needed replacing. I have the new valve body but I have also read that I should, (must), replace the mounting bolts. Problem is I cannot find any reference to the bolts on any part sites. No part numbers or anything. I know they are a very low torque value +90* but I a very wary of reusing the old ones. Does anyone know a part number or a source for these bolts? Thanks Shaun
  19. Earlier
  20. That's really cool! My '99 986 recently just stopped shifting into gears and I've just started going down the troubleshooting rabbit hole. I'll definitely add this to my smoking gun list (give this a try and see if it fixes you problem list)! Thanks for posting!
  21. Thank you for these guides. Based on what is observed it refers me now to Chapter 11 (0-142). Is this information available? Odd thing is that after clearing the transmission fault codes, they have not yet reappeared. I will go through the steps here and I may also try to remove and replace the filter and ATF this weekend. I’m also looking for a local mechanic as my regular place does not work on Tiptronic transmissions.
  22. Here are your troubleshooting guide(s)... P1818.pdf P1823.pdf
  23. Durometric pulled Tiptronic P1818 and P1823 codes after I was unable to shift into any gear on my Boxster. There has never been any issues whatsoever with the transmission. However, while parking my car the previous night, I accidently turned off the car while in Drive. - At the dash with engine started, the dash correctly displays proper gear to match the shift lever, but the car does not budge. - The mechanical linkage at the rear is all connected. - I checked fluid level and and some fluid did come out at the fill area but the fluid is very dark with NO burnt smell. - I reset the Tiptronic fault codes and later disconnected the battery for 30+ minutes to no avail. --- Also, odd thing is that the Tiptronic fault codes no longer return after reset. They show green state. My local shop says they don't work on Tiptronics. I read I can R&R the ATF and Filter and I am considering that myself. However, I need a plan of attack. I live in Riverside County California. Please advise. Thanks.
  24. My vehicle is pulling to the right, not a lot but notiable Alignment, four wheel: While up on the rack we Inspected steering and suspension system components. It was suggested, Connect alignment equipment to verify, and adjust front and rear wheel alignment settings , for caster, camber, and toe in/out settings. thrust angle where applicable and center steering wheel. Some vehicles may require installation of alignment shims. This can be done at one of your local Porsche maintenance shops. Im having it done for $234.70, since I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do myself. The price was right. Strut/Shock Bump Stop Assembly, front: I need to remove and replace front shock absorber bump stops, strut bearings/strut mounts. After 54k miles they are showing large cracks. I was quoted $1627.48. I have a friend in the neighborhood who is himself a pretty good mechanic. I think we can get this done for much less $$$ ourselves. On my last inspection they found nothing wrong with the rear suspension components. no unusual wear in the rear tires, but they were replaced before I purchased the vehicle. I will definitely keep my eyes open to the rear tire wear now.
  25. I have had the same leak, at the same place. I just purchased a 2005 Boxster automatic 54k miles about a month ago. When I drove home and parked it overnight there was a small puddle passenger rear side. I looked up under the vehicle and the overflow hose was wet. I went to the trunk and there was a black cap on the expansion tank. I replaced it right away with the Blue .04 Cap. I wiped the residual coolant off the strut below the overflow hose and drove it around. I came back no leak. I thought I solved the problem, not....I took it to the dealer in town and had some overdue service's performed. They were supposed to do a pressure test on the cooling system, drain and refill. I found out later after multiply leaks that he considered the vacuum a positive test. That cost me and aggravated the hell out of me. I took it to another dealer in town. He preformed a pressure test and found it was the expansion tank leaking. I went back to the other dealer and talked to the owner. He said it was his mistake and will pay for the replacement of the expansion tank and the labor he charged me to empty and refill the system. This comimg Tuesday after replacing the expansion tank they will preform an other pressure test to see if the rest of the closed loop is ok.
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