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Please tell us the exact year model of your car.

Hola buenas. Soy Oscar de Zaragoza España tengo un 955S y quisiera poner levas al volante del 955. Alguien sabe o hay algún tutorial por ahí? Gracias

A scan of the car with a Porsche specific tool (Durametric, PIWIS) can identify if the M535 anti-theft/immobilizer system (Central Locking Unit or CLU) is present and functioning. Diagnostic tools like Durametric or Porsche System Testers can query the alarm module for error codes, confirming its status. This system is also located under the driver's seat.

Replying now! As I’ve been finding forums especially useful recently. I tried filling trans with fluid, repaired all corroded splices under carpet, no change! Car still gave the same symptoms. I ended up replacing the transmission with a used but good unit. Solved my problem! Car ran and drove great for another 6,000 miles, then sold it to buy a pickup truck. Anyway, wanted to share that yes, those symptoms above led me to swap the tranny and that solved my issues. P.S. I bought this cayenne used for 1,000 with this condition, ran great and the rest of the vehicle was in great shape for being 14yrs old and having 160,000 miles. Although it would not drive forward or backwards… $300 transmission with a warranty and we were back in business!!

All US/Canada cars were 315Mhz.

Concluded it must be the microswitch in the lock actuator, so next question is how to determine whether I have a 315MHz anti-theft chassis so I get the correct replacement lock actuator. The Build Label under the hood lists Code 535 (315Mhz option right?), but as I am not the first owner (I'm 3rd) and don't know the history (who knows, maybe it was wrecked and a hood was pulled from another Ocean Blue 986), is there any other way I can tell whether I actually have the 315Mhz anti-theft system?

Thanks, tried that several times with no success. Do you know how to tell whether you have the M535 Anti-Theft (315 mhz) as the actuators are different depending on whether you have that option or not.

Thank you Loren. I ended up getting a used TCU on ebay and all is well now! Happy days!

Try re-training the windows. Hold the button down until the window goes down all the way - then do the same for the up motion. Do this for each window.

Had a prior thread on this, thought I fixed it but apparently not. 1998 Boxster 986. When opening the passenger door using either the inside handle or outside handle, the window drops so long as the handle is held, but once either handle is released the window goes back up to the closed door position. Originally, only the outside handle exhibited this temporarily down, then back up when released behavior, so I removed the door panel, found that the outer door handle's microswitch had become disconnected (maybe he window had caught it when lowered as the microswitch wiring was not secured but rather hanging free?), reconnected it and put the door back together. After this repair, both handles started to exhibit this window drop then up on release behavior. I wasn't as detailed as I usually am in documenting tests/changes I've done, but I do believe that both handles started behaving properly after a programming sequence -- raising window then holding switch for 20 sec, then doing the same after lowering window -- but then reverted to the window drop then up on release behavior after a few cycles. I also sprayed some silicon lubricant director into the lock actuator, and this also seemed to work for a few cycles before returning to the window drop then up on release behavior. Given that both the inside and outside handle are exhibiting this behavior, I am thinking that it is not the handle microswitches that are the problem but rather the lock actuator itself. However, before I start throwing parts at it, I wanted to see if anyone has had this particular problem or can otherwise tell me what my next steps should be. Thanks in advance for any help.

Firstly, change the O ring on piston that may just solve it. Otherwise new pump 100 698 010 A or equivalent. Take a photo of air line plumbing before removing, it's a puzzle.

I recommend to change both hatch and glass strut at once. And buy from FCP Euro because you will do it again soon.

Daniel, how did these work out for you?

Thanks... Yeah, I saw that in the service manual... great if you're an alignment shop with the vehicle on the wheels... up on a lift. But with the wheels off and the car on jack stands, those numbers are tough to determine when all you want to do is approximate the ride height after replacing the struts and control arms... the bushing on the inner end of the coffin arms needs to be in its relaxed location prior to tightening the bolt that secures it. Easiest way seems to be having the measurement of the distance from fender opening to wheel center, using a floor jack to lift the knuckle until that dimension is met, then tightening the fastener. (Multiple guys on YouTube recommend it after similar service... worked for them...) The vehicle will be going in for an alignment after I get everything put back together anyway, so they can dial it in to what it's supposed to be at that time. I just want to have it as closely approximated as I can before I try driving it post-repairs and pre-alignment. Oh yeah, I've got 17 inch wheels, BTW.

The 2002 Carrera wiring diagrams are in a collection that is about 33 pages. Contributing or Subscribing Members here can get single diagrams as needed.

Yes, the Durametric software should be able to do that also.

Hey Loren... I spent about an hour & a half searching here last night, could not find what I was looking for. I found a couple references to ride height as defined in the service manual which doesn't help in my situation, but nothing about taking the measurements from the fender opening to the center of the wheel, as shown in the photos I posted. If you know of a post with that info, could you point me at it, please? I ran an email list and a forum for experimental airplanes for 16+ years where a question like mine would elicit multiple responses within hours.. oh well...

Hello, would anyone have this wiring diagram? Or a good source to buy the correct year wiring for my 2002? Thank you all, Douglas

Hello, would you know if the durametric would be able to reset the Tiptronic?

Hi Loren, Thanks for the reply... Yeah, I'm pretty sure it spent a lot of time outside. I've already got the new rotors... the old ones are scrap... the pictured one is the worst. I'm replacing the control arms, sway bar bushings, and the upper strut mounts, see the photos. I'm also replacing the trans & engine mounts... car's going in for rear main seal, clutch, & IMS bearing next Wednesday... my tech will handle those mounts as part of that project. You're right, I should have searched the suspension heights & distances... I'll remember that next time I'm looking for common info. Thanks again...... marv

Rotors are non-turnable for about the last 20 years. Has this car been sitting outside - that is a lot of heavy rust. The suspension bushings are likely dry and also cracked. I would replace them as you don't want any surprise failures. Suspension heights and distances have been covered here before - please try and search for them.

A quick follow up... I'm replacing the caliper bolts... I'd rather stick to spec than not. Turns out the calipers are Brembos... their surface treatment, whatever it is, is impervious to paint stripper. The rattle can yellow is mostly off. My brake pads look like new.,.. I was surprised to see that someone would actually re-use the rotor shown in the picture.. it's 1.5mm above minimum thickness, but there's no way to have it surfaced that won't won't leave it under spec.. new rotors being installed around. Finally, I dummied out and failed to measure the distances from the inside of the fender openings to the middle of the wheels.. need those to set the empty weight ride height before tightening the inner lower control arm bolts, in order to lock that bushing in at the neutral position. If one of you has a stock base model Boxster, circa 1998-2004 (not lowered or anything in the suspension that changes that...) if you would be so kind to get those dimensions and share them in a reply, I'd really appreciate it. The ...360 picture shows the front, ...370 the rear. I happened to already have the wheels and rotors off when I took the pictures last night, but I'm thinking it should be obvious. thanks & have an excellent day!

Check your fuel trims, bet at least one bank is running lean.

Hey guys, Does anyone know if you need to inform the DME that the O2 sensors have been replaced? I had a couple of codes about burning lean and aging O2 sensors. Since the car has 80k miles on it, I went ahead and replaced all 4 O2 sensors & cleared the codes. The code for aging sensor on bank one has returned. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ron 2004 996.2 C2