brake replacement

[hucqym]

...so its about time for me to replace the rotors/pads on my 2001 boxster. Checked a few options online - suncoast, pelican parts, pap-parts among other random web stores.

pap-parts seems to have a sweet deal. Does anyone have experience buying brakes from pap-parts? genuine stuff and all that?

Any other sources, welcome.

also pelican is selling balo brand rotors for pretty cheap. Is that any good?

Thanks

Hakim

Edited September 5, 2010 by hucqym

[Orient Express]

May I recommend that regardless of what rotor you pick, (I prefer Brembo or Zimmerman), that you use EBC Red Stuff pads for Boxster. These pads use ceramic material, and have great bite, no noise, and best of all no dust. They are competitively priced, and you can even buy them on Amazon. They are about $100 for each axle. I have them on my street 996, and they are perfect. Great stopping power, and no brake dust.

[hucqym]

Thanks for your suggestion. I just spoke to pap-parts and they confirmed that the parts they are offering are zimmerman.

[N41EF]

I've bought from a place online called R1 Concepts through their eBay store. They sell several different brands of rotors and pads, I put Zimmerman and EBC on my Volvo and my VW. Never had to put brakes on the Boxster yet, but I'll be checking them when I do. Be careful about buying stuff like that online, the shipping can be a deal killer, 4 rotors add up to a heavy package. I have the green pads on my Discovery, but will try the reds on the Boxster.

[hucqym]

Thanks all for pointing out the EBC redstuff pad. Did a little research and these ceramic based ones sound fabulous. Getting them from amazon. Bought the rotors from pelican (and they ship free based on the order value).

Now what are your opinion about installing them at home? I am getting a quote from local shops (european car specialists in sanfrancisco bay area) ranging from $500-700 for labor which I think is pretty steep. Leave alone, the porsche specialists and dealer I never bother.

I have worked on stuff like coolant pump replacement by myself and dont mind getting down and dirty :)

Only concern, is it a straight-forward installation procedure or does it take some skillful adjustment/tuning etc..

Also I am getting new tires installed and an alignment done. Does it matter if I replace brakes before or after that process? (given that I want to change the brakes by myself)

[N41EF]

You could do the brakes in an afternoon with limited skills. An hour for the first wheel, then it will get faster. If you have the bently's manual you should be fine. I would use this as an excuse to buy a brake bleeder if you don't have one. I think of things like this as an reason to buy tools, because it will make the next brake change easier ( I usually have 4 or 5 cars in the driveway). A Motive bleeder will be under a hundred bucks, and you can flush/replace the brake fluid while you are there, with one person. Replacing the brake fluid is an every two year PM that most people don't do. Any of the performance parts places sell the Motive unit, or there might be someone close who has one and can help.

Compared to the labor quote you got, If you bought a floor jack and jack stands, the motive unit, pretty blue brake fluid. and a bunch of paper towels, you'd still be out less than $200 for parts, and then you keep it all.

[hucqym]

Thanks. that was reassuring. I already have the jack/jackstand (...and paper towels :D) and so that leaves me with only bleeder and fluid :)

Any strong recommendation for/against pressure bleeding or vacuum bleeding? I could do with a less messy one given the chance of messing up paint with the corrosive fluid.

You could do the brakes in an afternoon with limited skills. An hour for the first wheel, then it will get faster. If you have the bently's manual you should be fine. I would use this as an excuse to buy a brake bleeder if you don't have one. I think of things like this as an reason to buy tools, because it will make the next brake change easier ( I usually have 4 or 5 cars in the driveway). A Motive bleeder will be under a hundred bucks, and you can flush/replace the brake fluid while you are there, with one person. Replacing the brake fluid is an every two year PM that most people don't do. Any of the performance parts places sell the Motive unit, or there might be someone close who has one and can help.

Compared to the labor quote you got, If you bought a floor jack and jack stands, the motive unit, pretty blue brake fluid. and a bunch of paper towels, you'd still be out less than $200 for parts, and then you keep it all.

[Dr.Strangepork]

The brakes are kinda tedious compared to other cars but not super difficult. I just replaced my rotors/pads with Balo rotors and Mintex pads or some OEM equivalent off Pelican Parts. Feel just like stock, cost a bit over $300 for all four pads/rotors.

[N41EF]

I bought a Motive pressure bleader, and I've also used a vac bleeder that attaches to an air line, and the hand pump type. I like the Motive pressure hands down.Any of them will do the job, but with one person the Motive wins. I use the hand sucker to empty what I can, then the motive to finish it. There is a divider in the master cylinder resevoir that divides fron tot back so that a leak in one will not cause a complete loss of brakes. I used 5 to 10 psi on the hand pump to force the old fluid out.

My plan is to use ATE blue one change, then the gold the next, so you can see when you have completely flushed the system. Don't forget to bleed the clutch too. A one liter can is just enough to do it if you don't waste it.

[Loren]

The ATE Blue will stain/dye the lines and after a little time all the lines and tank will be blue.

I just use ATE Gold and look for clean brake fluid.

Oh and just in case you did not know ATE Blue and ATE Gold are the same stuff - the Blue just has dye in it.