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Dr.Strangepork

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Everything posted by Dr.Strangepork

  1. Is the shop you're referring to a Porsche specialist? I'm about 30 mins outside of Hagerstown, it'd be nice to have someone to do specialized work if need be.
  2. You can read my site for my experience with a door sub upgrade. I never had an issue with the MDF rotting in the 6-7 months I had them in. http://boxsterguide.blogspot.com/2011/05/door-sub-upgrade.html
  3. That's interesting, I wonder what issues he encountered specific to the manual transmission. Last, does the 717 in your user name mean 717 area code? If so, I'd love to check this out :) I'm in central PA.
  4. I'd guess tie rod ends, but it could be just about anything in the front suspension.
  5. Update! CC inserts came in today. Kinda wondering where I can install them...they're 7" long. I'm thinking either right after the cats or right on the inlet of the muffler, whichever fits better. Not sure I'm gonna have room right after the cats or before the muffler so it might have to go partially inside the muffler. Very interested to see how this affects the sound.
  6. Ah ha! I think you're onto something. Today it was rainy and there was no squeaking. Somehow I don't think that rain would make suspension stop creaking...but a trunk latch/seal? Quite possible...
  7. My suspension makes a creaking/squeaking noise, both in the front and rear, when going over bumps. It sounds like walking on a creaky set of wooden stairs in an old house or something. My first thought was swaybar bushings, so I had both the front and rear ones greased, but no dice. My next suspects are the strut bushings. Is it typical for them to make creaking noises as they age? Could it be part of the mount creaking from a lack of lubrication? If I need to replace them, what exactly would need to be replaced? (I noticed on Pelican Parts that there's several different parts of the strut mount and none of them are cheap). Car is an '01 and has 60k miles. Let me know if there's anything else I should be suspect of making the noise.
  8. 986 bits mixed with 987 bits in an interior wouldn't quite look right IMO, other than the seats (which bolt right up unless I'm mistaken) - those would probably look good. I'm sure you can find nice condition interior panels though, my 10 year old interior is still in great shape.
  9. Many stock cars will wheel hop under hard launches. It's due to flex in the drivetrain (mounts, etc) and the suspension. Stiffer engine/trans mounts can help.
  10. I haven't seen a fuse diagram that mentions cruise control, is there a specific fuse I should check?
  11. I'm positive the CC inserts would knock out the drone, I'm just concerned as to whether they'd make it too quiet...right now the loudness is spot on! It's loud enough to sound great but not be obnoxious. And the aftermarket muffler is about 20lbs lighter than the stock one, not bad for one mod. Here's a little comparo...excuse the messed up rear window (pic's from when I first got it). Stock: Modded. You can see the slightly misaligned mufflers, though it looks much worse in this pic due to the reflections. However you can also see how the bracket I made allows one to get the tips exactly in the right spot :)
  12. Thought I'd share my custom exhaust project that I did a while ago. I was frustrated by not being able to find a decent catback for less than $800-$1000 so I decided to improvise on a cheap $300 one to make it suit my taste. Ended up spending $450 and ended up with a nice sounding exhaust! Fully story: Link I really like the sound. I don't bother listening to the radio much anymore, I find myself just listening to the exhaust note. Above 4000 RPM it just sings! I did shoot some crude video clips of the sound, but in the clips it just sounds like an amplified version of the noise you hear through the intake, which is pretty much what it sounds like at WOT. It is droney at <3000 RPM however. With the top down it's not a big deal, but it can get annoying with the top up, so I'm considering picking up a pair of CC inserts to quiet it down. The car is a weekend car, I don't take it out much on anything other than sunny, top-down days anyway though :) It looks pretty good too, much better than the recessed, rusty, stock exhaust. Only gripe is that the mufflers don't line up perfectly straight, they're a teeny bit crooked - but it's not something you can notice without squatting to look under the car and looking for it (I think I'm just obsessive :) ) All in all, I can't complain for spending half the money I would have on a nicer exhaust. Enjoy :)
  13. Ever since I've had my car, the cruise control has not worked - the car IS equipped with cruise, it has the stalk for it, but when I press the on/off button the green light on the dash does not light up. Obviously, I suspect the stalk's on/off switch, but there's other stuff in there. Does anyone know if I can get at the wiring without having to remove the steering wheel etc? Is it accessible from above with the instrument cluster removed? If I have to take the steering wheel off, I'm just going to swap in the 4-stalk unit with OBC while I'm at it... Any suggestions are appreciated :) I managed to track down the wiring diagram for a 98 Boxster - would anyone happen to have a higher res version of this diagram, perhaps for an '01 S?
  14. Keep in mind the rear bumper is different to accomodate the different spoiler, you might have to swap it out.
  15. Raxles remanufactures axles...I remember for VWs they were something like $350 each. You might be able to get some for the Boxster from them: http://www.raxles.com/
  16. I only see the tool on this page (My link) and it's listed for $136. I guess I have to call them. Still hate to spend $70 on a tool that I will only use once. Oh well. Wow, they stepped up their game with the extraction kit...it used to just be the puller tool for $70, but now they include cam locks and other useful things. Can't hurt to be too careful, though it costs twice as much...
  17. The tool to pull the IMS bearing is $70 from LN Engineering and the installation tool comes with the bearing kit. You will need something to remove/reinstall the RMS though.
  18. From what I've seen of aftermarket body kits/parts, for just about any body part where fitment is critical (such as a bumper) you're not going to find something that fits like OEM. Even with more expensive stuff like Rieger. A lot of stuff will look awesome in pictures, but I've been to my fair share of car shows and seen the stuff in person. Almost all the time, the crude fitment and the necessity of blending the paint to match just makes it look worse than OEM. You could always swap in the 2003+ bodywork to make the car look newer though. I would focus more on getting a nice set of wheels and some coilovers to dial in the stance if you want to make your car look sharp. Check out the Gemballa Boxster here, they've got the wheels+stance thing down: http://www.dieselsta...la-986-Boxster/
  19. Idea: jack up car, remove wheel most proximal offending noise, pry at suspension components with big pry bar until you notice play in something :) I mean it really could be anything, but from your description (only happens during low speed turning) I'm going to guess it's a ball joint.
  20. If the other parts are fine, replace at least the disc - it's the part that's cheapest to replace out of the clutch friction surfaces (about $200) and it's also the one that typically sees the most wear. Might as well put one in so you don't have to worry about taking the trans off for another 50k! When I did mine I replaced just the disc, throw out bearing and pilot bearing, as the flywheel/pressure plate didn't show any scoring or heat damage. Flywheel's dual mass springiness still seemed intact too. Certainly wasn't worn enough to merit the $700 replacement. As for longevity, my clutch disc had just over 50k of use in an urban environment and it still worked fine but was visibly worn and approaching the end of its useful life. Replacing it with a new disc significantly improved the engagement, shifts like a champ now :)
  21. Mine took a lot of moving around to finally get it on...you just have to get it at the perfect level with the jack and the perfect angle for the input shaft to slide into the pilot bearing, it's somewhat tricky. Once you slide it on you have to mess with the level some more to completely close the gap between the engine and trans as well. It'll have an uneven gap top to bottom until you find the sweet spot and I probably wouldn't try and pull it closer with the bolts.
  22. So I tried both keys this weekend...neither will open the rear trunk! What should I check next?
  23. I wrote a tech article that explains the ins and outs of IMS replacement: http://boxsterguide.blogspot.com/2010/09/intermediate-shaft-ims-bearing-info-and.html it's Boxster oriented, but with the 996, it's obviously the same deal.
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