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All Activity

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  1. Past hour
  2. Dilshod Umarkariev Dilshod Umarkariev changed their profile photo
  3. Jacob Vaughn Jacob Vaughn joined the community
  4. dporto
    If you haven't already, it'd be a good idea to get a hold of the Bentley service manual (101 projects for your 996 by Pelican Parts - not as thorough as Bentley). I've only removered the intake runners after I dropped the engine, so I can't speak directly to your situation. I can tell you this - it's going to be a pain in the butt! You might be better off dropping the engine at least a few inches...Good luck
  5. Today
  6. Jonathan Franson
    I am a pretty solid mechanic, and I have done lots of engine overhauls and timing belts, but this job pushed me to my breaking point. I was able to cook up the right combination of tools to get the driver's side rear triple square out, and removed the intake, and replaced all the seals. But for the life of me, I cannot get the intake to go back in place and line up the fuel rail. I attempted this for 7 hours before just giving up. First off, let me say, that the decision to put the fuel rail though the intake was completely unnecessary and maniacal. They could have just added a couple extra/separate bolts on the bottom of the intake and this job would have been 100 times easier. There seems to be no way to get the fuel rail nipple to seat back into the pump, and get it back into the holes for the intake. It will only side into my intake holes just perfectly, and there is no way to line it up like that once its attached to the pump. I tried this countless times. I also cannot get the fuel line to go down the 1/2" to slip inside the pump sleeve if the fuel rail is inside the intake. So I feel like I only have a couple options. First would be to remove the pump, and try to install that separately, which seems like more of a pain. Or make a flexible high pressure fuel line between the pump and the fuel rail. That would make this job so much more simple. I am completely out of ideas, and for now, the Cayenne is just sitting in my garage waiting for completion. I will take any advice I can get. I can easily get the intake and fuel rail back in place with the fuel line sitting directly next to the pump port, but no way to get it inside.
  7. Mikecaymans Mikecaymans joined the community
  8. Trey719 Trey719 joined the community
  9. daytona930 daytona930 joined the community
  10. Evol72 Evol72 joined the community
  11. Captain Lockheed
    Top shock mounts, front and rear they degrade over time too. Sorry should have explained better.
  12. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, the problem with DIY on AC systems is the cost of the proper service equipment; to properly vent one of these systems, you need a recovery unit which can cost well north of $3K, a vacuum pump to properly evacuate the system before charging, oil and dye injectors for service, and an accurate pressure gauge system for evaluation its performance. All this hardware is usually well out side the budget of all but the most serious DIY'er.
  13. Kbatl
    My apologies, missed a digit in the S/N. Below is the corrected S/N. BE2182 W5010609
  14. altezzabmw altezzabmw joined the community
  15. SynergySupercars SynergySupercars joined the community
  16. Kbatl
  17. DBJoe996
    Like JFP said...take it to a pro. The compressors are pretty robust. It is the electro-magnetic clutch and friction plate that take a beating. One simple test is to engage the AC with the engine running and visually check the compressor to see if the pulley is spinning. Do not touch it with the engine running. In fact, check all the pulleys and belt at the same time.
  18. JFP in PA started following AC went kablooey and A/C compressor oil after condenser exchange
  19. JFP in PA
    You risk major problems. If you are unsure how much oil is in the system, it can be flushed clean with a special solvent and than recharged from scratch, but that takes special equipment.
  20. JFP in PA
    Could be something as simple as a failed AC hose, or it could be the compressor itself. If you are not equipped to handle it, take it to a pro.
  21. Loren
    Try 4171
  22. royp4 started following AC went kablooey
  23. royp4
    Hi all. Was driving my 2003 996 cab 2 days ago. I heard a strange noise from the rear and pulled over. I smelled a burning type odor and a small amount of white smoke was coming from the trunk vents. Since that time the a/c is not producing cold air. Fan still produces plenty of air, but it isn't cold. Am I looking at a blown compressor here, or are there other possibilities? It gets rather warm in South Carolina, and sometimes rather than dropping the top I use the a/c. Any input from any of you would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance,
  24. Kbatl
    Well, before I disconnected battery, I thought I wrote down what was the code. But it didn't work. So then I did the Tone-8-0 and got the serial number, which matches what was stamped on the side of the radio (labels were no longer there). Please provide the code for the following: BE2182 W501609 R3297 <-- 3297 is what I originally wrote down as the code, but apparently it isn't since it shows up when I electronically checked the serial number. Thanks! Kevin Atlanta, GA
  25. Randall Ball Randall Ball changed their profile photo
  26. James03C4S James03C4S joined the community
  27. Antonio Austin Antonio Austin changed their profile photo
  28. Akram Saeed Akram Saeed joined the community
  29. dannyKim
    Have you tried the conversion with C4/turbo coupe engine lid?
  30. Sgajones Sgajones joined the community
  31. thormann
    Thanks for the reply, Joe! As I understand the manual most of the oil remains in the system. Isn´t it too much, if I just fill up another 195g? What could happen, if I fill too much oil?
  32. Krzysztof Borzyszkowski Krzysztof Borzyszkowski changed their profile photo
  33. HarryRhee
    On my Porsche Cayenne 2009 GTS got code P2404. After reading all the blogs, replaced the vacuum pump. It was the correct decision. Code went away and car runs better. You can change yourself if you have time and patience. Pump costs $160 online. Tools you'll need is small ratchet (https://www.amazon.com/Drive-Dual-Stubby-Ratchet-Handle/dp/B009TA14P2), E10 socket, string (attached to ratchet cause you'll drop it trying to squeeze it in position so easy to recover if you drop it), plier (disconnect the hoses). Pelican Parts website has good instructions on pump removal. Don't need to remove the intake manifold if you can squeeze hands where vacuum pump is located. Maybe an hour job.
  34. Ayman Barazi Ayman Barazi changed their profile photo
  35. Miscedano started following Plastic Piece on Rear Seats
  36. quip11
    Hello, I too am faced with most likely replacing my catalytic converters on my 08 GTS with 128K miles. I have P0421 and P0431 codes. I already replaced all 4 O2 sensors, but the codes came back. So far, I've replaced thermostat, thermostat housing and updated the coolant lower pipe in the process as well. I've searched and ran out of other options on how to get rid of these codes. I'd appreciate any other suggestions or expertise anyone may have on this matter. If you could share some workshop instructions on performing this task, thank you.
  37. Peter Wei
    My 04 V8 has the P2187 and P2189 codes. It will start but runs only a few seconds and stalls. Would this be a PURGE VALVE issue?
  38. Yesterday
  39. ninedragons986
    Hello, My shifter became loose then came apart as I was backing her up in the yard. Anyway, I found a nut had come off and the pin itself was out of the mechanism. Then I saw that the ball joint for the cable, at the bottom of the stick was also off. I ordered the alignment part but I wound up judging by eye where it needed to be for the cable adjustment. (I saw some playing with one on youtube it was really easy to work with. (So far me and the car have had no real difficulties with basic repairs). I realized that the existing washers where a bit worn so I replaced them with some nylon washers. These were much larger in diameter. I also got two star washers but use only one. I saw that the nuts had a locking pattern on them but decided to use one on the nut that had come off. I also added a bit of blue thread lock to it for my peace of mind. The reason I am showing all this is because I want to hopefully remove some apprehension in doing these small repairs. It took me a while before I was comfortable working on my vehicles, but I still get professional advice. The top and bottom requires an allen key and 18 crescent. I forgot the size for the allen bit it was large. Anyway, here are the photos .... 😃
  40. Pcar_101 started following 997-2 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S, Carrera GTS, 911 Speedster)
  41. Dan C started following 2011 Cayenne S Intermittent Brake light out
  42. Dan C
    The driver's side rear brake light on my car is working intermittently. When I first start the car, the brake light functions normally. As soon as I shift into gear, the brake light goes out and stays out (even if shifting back into park). I checked voltage going to the light fixture and there isn't any (to the brake light only). There are no error codes. Anyone familiar with the wiring that possibly their is some kind of control module going bad? It happens to consistently in the patter I described above to be a short in my opinion.
  43. Curly2719 started following 04 Porsche Cayenne S keeps shaking
  44. Curly2719
    I am needing some home. Just got my cayenne back from the mechanic, and for some reason it is still wet seems to be like hiccups when I go from 20 to 40. Just had new spark plugs and ignition coil’s installed, so I took it to the Porsche dealership and they’re telling me because the coils are aftermarket that can be the cause of the issue. I don’t know if I believe that if brand new ignition coil’s will cause misfire readings on all cylinders. And another thing I am attaching a picture and have circled an area in the engine that has a little cap. Now both sides of the engine have that same piece and should have a cap, when I look at my engine the passenger side does not have the cap on, Does anybody know what this is and what it does. I have circled in red .
  45. mbronsell
    I have a 1999 RHD Carrea Convertible The electric windows work perfectly on switch, opening closing doors, on drivers key and 1 touch. But When you lower the roof the passenger window stays up all other windows lowerI If you now lower the passenger window from the switch so its down When you raise the roof the passenger window closes with the other windows Would this be a fault with the roof ECU not putting a signal out ? Where is the location of the roof ECU ? Does anyone have a copy of the roof wiring ? thanks
  46. DBJoe996
    RMS=rear main seal IMSB=bearing No such thing as a "RMS bearing" I would have them bleed the hydraulic system to the clutch slave cylinder again. No cable adjustments or other adjustments. Did they install the correct OE master cylinder? I have heard of some aftermarket master cylinders causing this exact problem. Did they install the upgraded versions of the release bearing and clutch fork?
  47. DK570
    It's buried pretty deep. Lots of stuff to bolt/unbolt. I'd say it's more time consuming than difficult. I replaced mine when I replaced the vacuum lines since I had easy access at the time.
  48. Y2K996C2 started following Clutch replacement problems
  49. Y2K996C2
    I just had my clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, flywheel, master/slave cylinder and RMS bearing replaced on my Canadian 2000 996 C2 CAB. Now my pedal engages at the top of the travel (worse than my old worn clutch). Is this an adjustment (like the old cable adjustment) on the hydraulics or will my indie have to drop trans again?
  50. DK570
    I have a used set of Bridgestone Blizzaks for 18" wheels I'd like to get rid of. Let me know if you want more details.
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