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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. The bumperettes are held on by clips from the back side of the bumper. You will need to remove the bumper to remove them. What are you going to do with the holes that are left?
  2. What model year do you need a diagram for?
  3. I think it just snaps on the seat frame.
  4. Technically that is "tire mounting paste".
  5. On the seat mounting at the front (item 13).
  6. The DIY is here (finally).. Replacing the Gas Door Actuator, for Carrera (996) or Boxster (986)
  7. It is the cover that hides the seat position control box.
  8. View this tutorial Replacing the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jac Author Loren Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 05/16/2007 05:03 PM Updated 03/15/2017 05:24 AM
  9. Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  10. That would be a good place to start. Look for cracked coils then check resistance in case there are cracks you can't see. Spark plug connectors should be about 2000 ohms and the coils should be 0.3 to 0.7 ohms (cold).
  11. Have you tried our Porsche Decoder here on the site??? Scouser's PORSCHE 17 Digit VIN Decoder
  12. Yes. Your only concern is 3.6 liter engine mufflers.
  13. There are 3 or 4 different 3.6 mufflers plus a couple PSE that will all work.
  14. Those are 3.4 mufflers - you do not want those on a 3.6. It works the other way around - you can use 3.6 mufflers on a 3.4 - but you should not use 3.4 mufflers on a 3.6.
  15. You likely need to see your dealer. There is a TSB for this problem and it says that the Navigation unit should be replaced.
  16. Please do a search here - these subjects have been covered many many times...
  17. I haven't seen any side by side yet. I do know both look longer and thinner -- but I would have to put them side by side.
  18. Yes, I can get you the part number but I think you are going to have to put them side by side with the GT3 ducts - or did you mean GT3 RS/Cup Car ducts. I am sure the GT3RS/Cup Car ducts are larger. You can really run the GT3 RS/Cup Car ducts on the street if your car is lowered - they will just scrape off.
  19. I haven't seen one break into small bits yet - but I won't say it can't happen. I would be more concerned with hitting myself in the face when I pull one straight out :lol: (please don't ask how I know) ;)
  20. 3 hours for a shifter that is already put together (you have to assemble the B&M)? 30 minutes is more like it. Porsche wrote a TSB for installing their shifter but TSBs are only available to Contributing Members here. Search for and find the free B&M instructions here. You could use those instructions too and would not be doing any of the shifter rebuild if you use the Porsche part as it is already assembled.
  21. Bank 1 is cylinders 1 to 3. Which is on the left side 996. The one in the code is the sensor after the cat (muffler side). O2 sensors do not need to be replaced in pairs.
  22. If that is the only fault you are getting then you likely have a dieing O2 sensor. I usually disconnect it clean the contacts and plug it back in. Then reset the fault code and see if it comes back. That is a little early for an O2 sensor failure (from aging) but not totally unheard of.
  23. Model Year? US or Row car?
  24. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...DE=02&cat=5
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