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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. I think that you are thinking of the early version 1 of the ceramic brake rotors. Most of the problems I heard of were from people that tracked their cars heavily and the rotors would crack or chuck off pieces. Since version 2 of the rotors came out I have heard very few complaints.
  2. The front brakes are larger on every car I have ever seen - because they do most of the braking. Porsche's are no different.
  3. Front ceramic rotors are: MSRP $5433.23 each - as of January 2007 Rear ceramic rotors are: MSRP $5215.91 each - as of January 2007
  4. You are correct - I removed the duplicate. What you see is what Porsche delivered for order guides for MY06. Because of the face-lift versions there were almost no changes for MY06 Cayenne's.
  5. Yes. The engine compartment fan is a purge fan - it will only come on when the engine compartment temperature exceeds a set value. Then it will turn on and pull cool air into the engine compartment.
  6. Front ceramic pads are: MSRP $331.76 (set) - as of January 2007 Rear ceramic pads are: MSRP $335.47 (set) - as of January 2007
  7. The MY06 Order Guides are available here. Download the order guide and you can see what is standard and what is optional.
  8. 1. Did you do the resistance test? That will tell you if the O2 heaters are shorted. 2. Yes, 9616 is just a break out box so that you don't short pins on the DME and kill the DME. 3. Yes, ignition on should work (if I read the schematic right). 4. Two thoughts here - 1. the bulb is burnt out or 2. you might have caught the codes just prior to the DME turning the light on. The DME has to sense a problem that is not being corrected (within a specified engine and/or time cycle) to turn the CEL on.
  9. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=20485
  10. Almost all Porsche connectors have latches or locks to keep them from vibrating loose. I don't remember the ones used on those cars but I would look for a spring latch or a sliding latch on the connector.
  11. Hmm... both O2 sensors lose heating as the same time (P1115 and P1119). I don't think I have seen that - I won't say it's not possible but it does seem unlikely. I would start inspecting the cables and connectors to the two pre-cat O2 sensors. Check resistance of O2 heating. 1. Remove connector of 02 1/2 ahead of catalytic converter. 2. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pins 1 and 2. Display: 1.8 - 2.5 ohms at 20°C. 3. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pin 1 and 02 housing. Display: infinite ohms If that is okay then go on to - Check wiring from DME control module to disconnection point of 02 1/2 for continuity, short to B+ and short to ground. 1. Remove connector of 02 1 and 2 ahead of catalytic converter. 2. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector). 3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9616, pin 30, and disconnection point of 02 1/2 ahead of catalytic converter, pin 2. Display: < 1 ohms 4. Connect ohmmeter at sleeve to connector, pin 2, and ground. Display: infinite ohms 5. Remove ignition, injection and oxygen sensor heating relay and bridge terminals 30 and 87. 6. Connect voltmeter at sleeve to connector, pin 2, and ground. Display: 0V
  12. The part number 997.642.257.03 is for all Porsche vehicles.
  13. There is a link to the downloadable Porsche parts Catalog here.
  14. You can not put a PCM2 in a pre-MY03 car. IMHO PCM1 (if you could get all the parts) is not worth it. For a preMY03 car I think after market is likely the best. Do a search and you will find quite a few after market threads here.
  15. I show a new control unit (996.618.262.03) has an MSRP of $346.10. But, like we said it would need to be programmed by a dealer. For legal reasons only a dealer can do that. If you are getting a chirp is could be the passenger compartment motion sensor - not too common but still possible. Knowing what we know now (many fault codes) I would sort the key and control box first since a bad control box could certainly cause all kind of crazy things.
  16. If you decide to take the seat out make sure the key is NOT in the ignition - or you will get an airbag light. Just putting the key in the ignition (not even on) activates the airbag circuit. Fault 33/34 is fairly common and we suspect that the sensor has seen some movement just prior arming. I would not be very worried about this one as it usually does not mean a problem. Fault 42 - Do you have a second key to try? This will let you know if the transponder is working or not in the first key. If the second key works then that says the problem is in the first key. If the second key does not work then you are back to the control unit. Fault 54 - What year is your car? and is your car US/Canada or RoW? (US cars do not have the tilt sensor). Fault 16 - The airbag should light when you first turn the ignition key to "on". If it does not then the bulb is likely out. Faults 47/60/10 - The result from the second key test will be important here because many of these are also transponder errors. If the second key works then the first key is bad. If the second key does not work either then - assuming no damaged cables or loose connections the control box is likely bad. If that is the case you will need a PST2 or PIWIS to transfer the program (including key codes) to the new control box. Hope this helps some...
  17. I'm sure there are less expensive versions of the same tool...
  18. Sounds like it is not properly aligned. I think your dealer needs to fix that since they did the work.
  19. Well it would be at the bottom of the tach on both the older instrument cluster and the new one. It will be different display if it is a MY02 style cluster. The MY02 and newer clusters are dot matrix - so there is more info they can display than the older LCD ones. The MY02 and newer also require that they be turned on in two places - the DME and the cluster (with a PST2 or PIWIS tester). The older LCD version you only turned on in the cluster.
  20. Under the left seat.
  21. You've got a PM...
  22. Did you have the car aligned after the height changes? Bump steer will be a little worse on a lowered car because the suspension travels less (distance). All US/Canada cars have OBC which will display the temperature as the default readout - when it is turned on. On early cars it is just a matter of turning the OBC on with a PST2 or PIWIS.
  23. Wow! a lot of codes. A number of no voltage faults. Is the control box wet? or are the connecting cables loose? or are the cables under the seat damaged?
  24. "Detaching steering return line In order to detach the line from the supply tank, push the red unlocking ring forward (arrows) and simultaneously pull out the line. Use two plastic spatulas to press the unlocking ring." "Detaching steering return line from the supply tank with (SnapOn No. A177A) tool The line can also be detached using a commercially available tool. Insert tool between line and the red unlocking ring and unlock. Pull line to the rear and simultaneously press the tool against the red ring. Carefully protect the line against dirt and scratches with a cap."
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