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lewisweller
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Everything posted by lewisweller
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Catheterized......lol classic, had me laughing in the car earlier when I read it. When mine first leaked it was on the warehouse floor and left a decent puddle. I then pulled of the covers and restarted the engine and it ran/drip fast. Your leak is a lot slower than mine. Just be careful it might speed up at some point. I will get some pictures of the seal when I get it out and see where it leaks and how exactly. Just got message the paint work is done and the car on the way to the garage to start the transmission removal on Saturday.
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Yep these two mounts left and right for the front struts is on my list to do before sell, I already have the parts. Also new top arm of left side (right side is done already a while ago). With worn mounts the suspension is crashing and over humps and pot holes it creaks and crack with a not too nice knock for good measure on harsh speed humps.
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Well that's great news! I will be having mine ultrasonically cleaned as now the plan to sell off quick has changed and fixing up to top condition is the way I'm going to demand top dollar in a private sale bitting the bullet on more costs. I expect I will make the car perfect and sell it to someone who really gets a great car with no issues. But hey live and learn
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Cayenne didn't sell! The auction was a flop and only newer model cars was selling to a small audience of buyers. So I have arrange a friend of a friend garage to do the work labour about 400 dollar and I will supply the torque convertor seal and also rear engine crankshaft seal. I already have some Toyota type iv atf fluid to top up and no need to drop pan and do filter as it was new last year. Also having some paint work done right now to make the car ready to sell privately.
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Not a chance lol. Don't get me wrong, if you want a 4x4 that's not a total snail it's pretty good. But if like a lot of owners you get hit with a series of expensive repairs and your wallet isn't efficiently growing your money on trees, you will soon become slightly bitter and twisted about it. My personal situation has changed a lot just recently and I only need one car and my Audi is my baby and will never be sold. The porsche was the mistress and a bad b * tch at that in many ways.
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So as not to leave this long thread open (that is the most annoying thread ending ever Init?) I have sent the car to auction due to convertor seal leak and never got to do the injector professional cleaning, I'm sure it is the real reason for the lean hesitation but I guess I will never know now for sure. Bye bye cayenne it's been an expensive ride ..........
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Not good news Mike. I've just finished up mine making it ready to go auction on Tuesday night. I put all the beauty covers back on, cleaned the engine bay area, Cleaned the underneath from the atf leak also. What I did notice is when I started the car and let it warm up to nearly 90oC there was no leaking from the holes. Either it won't leak until its hot hot or the fluid level lower means less likelihood of leaking initially? Either way it ain't gonna fix itself and on Tuesday night someone will be the (un)lucky owner. Not the way I would like to sell it but cost of repair and change in circumstances forces a quick sale. Most buyers are traders who will export to another middle east country and make some profit. The saving they will make under the book value will partly be spent on repair but that's the gamble of the auction. Sold as seen. Fyi I never did have the injectors cleaned professionally but I'm 90% certain the blockage and poor spray pattern was the cause of the lean hesitation I battled for a year trying to fix.
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I don't get how the engine runs lumpy? The SAI pumps air into the exhaust and doesn't affect combustion directly. Indirectly the feedback from the lambda sensor will have some effect on fueling but to run lumpy as a result doesn't sound correct to me. My idle is fine and both SAI don't work. You sure the pulsing isnt the exhaust Gas pumping up passed the check valve? Mine did that on bank 1 until I blocked the pipe off, no sound now. Unless the US models are different?
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Yeah that's a pita, in uae they test in 3 mins no joke, brake test rollers, beep horn, look at lights on front and back, roll forward and shove Gas analysis probe in exhaust so quick it doesn't even settle, roll on to ramp lift and wave their touch around looking for road kill left overs maybe and the DOT for the tyres less than 3 yrs ago and that's it! Rubber Stamp and pay 150 dollars see you next year suckers. Funny when they did the Audi ......The Inspector revved the engine and intake sound of the supercharger made his colleague who had his head in the engine bay doing a "torch inspection" Sh*t his pants. Lol hehe hehe "Whats that?" he said trying to play it cool after he left his skin for a brief moment. An air filter I replied, why it makes strange noise? It's because of the carbon fibre cover I said.... Hehehe
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The first 5 codes are exactly what you see if you switch on the ignition with the map sensor and throttle body disconnected electrically. Ask me how I know. Clear codes and do the throttle body calibration either with the software or just ignition in and don't touch throttle pedal and don't start engine, after 1 minute switch off ignition and then back on and start engine, idle for a few min and go for a normal drive. The SAI codes I also have them on the very rare occasions it will need a cold start. These SAI are prone to failure due to age but also the check valve leaks and let's hot exhaust gases and carbon fry up and coke up the SAI internals plus the fan blades like to snap off and get lodged in the check valve. You don't really need SAI, (emissions blah blah and quicker cat warm up to get into closed loop) you can plug the pipe with a 3/4" GI threaded plug and jubilee clip and ignore the code. Cold starts might be a little lumpy as the cats take a few seconds longer to heat up but who cares. This is what I did because the check valve is a real b * tch to get to at the deep back of the engine. Saves money and it cant break cos it already broken .......
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The two prong connector from the harness to the wear sensor just needs cleaning. A small amount of corrosion or dirt will increase the resistance enough to trip the computer. Wrap a small flat blade screw driver with emery paper and clean the pins up, spray male pins and female connector with electrical cleaner solvent and allow to dry, plug all back together and cycle ignition key, start engine, check warning is not present anymore. Throw the wheels back on.
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Put the small neat sealer bead on the outer edge of the sealing face so any squeezed sealer would only come to the outside and wouldn't go into the transmission. The tube of sealer should come with a small screw on fine nozzle which allows you to control the bead and lay down a nice skinny amount that will squash down evenly but doesn't have the width to get inside the transmission. Let the tightened up sump pan sit for an hour and let the sealer go off completely, before filling up with fluid. It won't leak if done carefully. I'm sure you'll be alright.
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If you reuse the gasket you might consider a careful bead of high temperature gasket sealer? And yes 100% hygiene is key to leak free sealing faces and tighten bolts helps too lol
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If the pan sealing face is flat then you don't need to waste money on a new one. Everything is vw on this car don't be fooled by the porsche hype. The pan bolt tightening torque is very important, tighten evenly and don't over tighten, the gasket will be fudged up otherwise.
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Dry Fluid capacity is 9litres but fluid change is 8-9litres because you likely won't get the last 1 litre out. So yes it looks like it's under filled/ leaked a bit out already. Drop the pan and measure the rest. Refill: pump in until it spills and screw in plug. Start engine and run in P for a min then into N and leave it there for a while. If you have it safely off the ground its ideal to run through the gears and get a good circulation. The temp of 40oC is supposed to be the magic number for a full transmission, so before it gets hot, engine still running and in N slide under and unscrew the plug again and pump in some more fluid until it runs out. Replace plug and switch off engine. Let it cool off for a while (so the final time you repeat engine on ...plug out.... pump in until comes out) you are topping of fluid which is approx 40oc. Our vagcom has fluid temp I think.
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Mike I used non oem gasket and filter and Toyota type iv and no leaks (excluding the torque convertor seal). I'm with brainz hard downshift is valve body solenoid problem. I've had the bad up shifts when engine was running bad due to vaccum hose split and alternator was cropped out battery dying. Otherwise the transmission is very smooth, smoother than audi s tronic (double clutch of course).
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Don't seem right to me. I thought 180 was more like it. Other cayenne S owners recorded 180-200! You stated you had 170 before and number 8 was lower at 158! I'm confused now?
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With vagcom you can set the "offset" height to increase and decrease the actual ride height of the normal position. The level Control module coding is required to be changed. Vagcom gives you instructions as per the screen shot, sorry for bad image. There are increments from -25mm up to +20mm on front and rear axle. This is your cheapest way to increase normal ride height I reckon.
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I think they call it young slang where I'm from, South of England..... As opposed to the Dirty South across the pond.... Lol
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Common sense init!
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This info is incorrect, as per the porsche diagram the fuse 14 is the driver side left side pump.
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If fuse 13 is OK and the relay is also ok then perhaps the right side pump has a problem! You should check the connector as well under the seat to the regulator unit which of course passes the power to the right pump and level sensor. A garage can use power probe to activate the pump and bypass the relay and controller to verify if the pump will run or not.
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Fuse 14 is the left pump. It should die when pulled assuming you don't have a low fuel level, which would leave the right pump running anyway. Try pulling fuse 14 and then cycle the ignition and start and run car on right pump. Both pump should be able to run independently.
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Pico 4 channel scope required, which is why physical checks was advised. Have you switched between left and right pump it may just be a weak fuel pump. Takes 2 mins to check this.
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This link may help. Looks like the windscreen pump has duel pipes out for front and rear together on one pump and headlight wash is separate pump with higher pressure I imagine. So without jumping the gun I would say a good bet is the windscreen pump is knackered. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/75-BODY-Windshield_Washer_Reservoir_Replacement/75-BODY-Windshield_Washer_Reservoir_Replacement.htm
