lewisweller

The pipe elbow arrow red is a push fit type and mine does NOT go all the way up, the Y pipes spigot arrow blue is LONGER than the the pipe elbow push fitting so this looks correct to me. But it's leaking for sure. The (part no 25 on diagram) pipe running horizontal in front of it is not supposed to be there, it supposed to be behind the elbow push fit pipe! There is a plastic tab moulded into the bottom of the Y pipe which the horizontal pipe sits against and stops it rubbing against the water pump pulley. I expect that the horizontal pipe is pushing on the push fit elbow and making it leak or has damaged the push fitting already. Take the Y pipe off rearrange the pipes clean and refit. If after some km it's dirty and oily again bingo it's leaking 100%. Also whilst running after re-assembly spray some carb cleaner on it and listen for the rpm rising. Usually it will leak under boost and push out oily air then the oily air deposits collect dust and make the mess you see now.

Well the New filter and regulator is installed. Job went smoothly enough I had very little fuel in the tank which was advised. The old filter I cut open as you can see in the picture and guess what it looks very clean to me, I would say it's not that old. The regulator looked older and had more dirt around it and the connectors were tight as F*** . Reconnected the battery and the Engine started on the button just fine as it always does. I was rushing to go home and watch the football, didn't clear codes just drove to fuel station, switched off engine and filled up and put some stp fuel system cleaner in as well. Pulled away hard from petrol station heard the screech again (didn't buy the pipe number 5 today, Porsche want $100 for a 5inch plastic pipe! no chance, I will buy a hose and two clamps for $5 and make a better pipe than the brittle weak Porsche new one). So the verdict is inconclusive, I need to fix the pipe reset the dtc codes to clear clear fuel trims and do a throttle body alignment and and reset sequence and the lucky gypsy dance...........then go for some driving and see what's up. Gun to my head....... have I cured this problem? NO I don't think so but hoping I'm wrong. ****Loren****** DME issues with these models any info pls? I'm considering trying to blag a friend to load me a trail REVO dme remap tune to see what it does with the running issues.

CTT yes cayenne twin turbo, mines also a 06 with the E81 power kit giving 500bhp from factory. Your figures of 23.8 mpg UK is very good, most people get less than 20 mpg UK and 13mpg us. I bet having the AC off and the high or medium cruising speeds heavily affect what you can stretch out of a tank full on long runs in this thirsty Be-ach. Changing the pcm units I will check mine to see if any option to change, it's probably set in the maps CD drive settings maybe not able to change with UK map CD.

These are none turbo engines and still high consumption figures. Omg. Shifting this topic what are peoples fuel consumption figures like? I ran the cruise at 138kph and then reset the trip, below is the figures. Converted Thats 19.5 mpg UK or 16.2 mpg US. Still never seen more than 400 km per tank!

That makes me feel a bit better as I was a little concerned, thought I might be looking at another problem to search for. The 2012 Golf R I had before like to burn a bit of oil as well, I think 1 litre in 4000km, my current 2013 Audi 3.0t I never topped up the oil between 15,000km oil service interval which is very good really. But this i guess shows that different engine have very different oil consumption behaviour.

Update I had the wheel balanced and the vibration is less. I haven't had time to replace the strut top mounts yet and also the drivers side top control arm. Having looked at the lower control arm bushes and ball joints and track rod ends I think the rest of the vibration is the old engine mounts as the 3 transmission mounts are new. Lastly the amount of backlash in the front diff hub really signals why I hear the diff whine at higher speeds. Anyone done a front diff rebuild on the economical side? I'm quite prepared to strip and replace the bearing and seals as long as the gears are good to go. Changed the diff oil twice no metal at all.

What is anyone's oil consumption? I put at least 2 litres of 5w/40 oil in 4,000km before just recently changing oil and filter for 10w/40. I did find some oil leaking from the block behind the alternator, I put some gasket sealer on there and the leak stopped. I don't know if my running issues are exacerbating the oil consumption or not as I have yet to really find the smoking gun. Start up there is no blue smoke, on hard acceleration I don't see any smog behind me, I do get a strong sulphur cat smell when I redline it through the gears up to 160kph.

After some more driving today and sat at idle for at least 15-20 mins waiting for the wife, the engine definitely changed it's characteristics since driving this morning. So some thinking, 1. Fuel heating and or pump getting hotter and lower output? 2. DME, throttle and or running adaptions changing to make poor running after some time especially after prolonged idling? 3. Closed loop o2 sensor cats problem? Anybody got some high level technical Bosch systems knowledge to share?

Oatmealadam What's up? Interested to know how your repairs are going. I found some info which related to your symptoms and it all came back to leaks, AOS, vac pcv hose cracked, Y pipe split which is hidden, etc

I did the reset for throttle as per your instructions and before I also checked and Re-tightened the inlet manifold screws which I had a suspicion that they weren't tight enough when my apprentice Eng reinstalled the manifold after we remove the starter motor some weeks ago. The drive after the reset was great, felt much more responsive and smoother, the hesitation was still there on boost but much less stutter at higher rpms. Small Throttle inputs results in good power and torque the way I would expect a 500bhp v8 to perform, the boost builds and responds much faster and notably the transmission will not need to downshift! If engine is running bad it alway downshift when I don't really want it to and it's because the power and torque requested is not delivered by the engine and it downshifts to compensate, very annoying especially when you have passengers. After 40km........ I went to put some more fuel in and DID NOT switch off engine since morning start, after I pull away from the petrol station I hear the screech noise again!!!! I went to my clients house to collect some cash and found the pipe number 5 on the diagram is split in half, I used half roll of black pvc tape to fix and will buy a new one tomorrow. The noise is gone!! Result. So even though the engine runs better it still has something not quiet right and my hunch is fuel related. I tested, checked or replaced almost everything else within reason. I've already paid for the filter and regulator so whether it fixes the problem or is another "routine service maintenance" item for this ageing car (that's what I tell the wife hehe), I hope it's the final cure. Just a note the way the engine performs really affects the transmission shifting and smoothness. Torque peaks and incorrect rpm's upset the mechatronic in all vag/porsche applications, my Audi is the same the occasional hard shift when mid load acceleration but mostly silky smooth.

Paid for the fuel filter and regulator today will pick it up on saturday and install it. Typical I've been keeping the fuel low and driving today with under 1/4 tank and the car runs better if not exactly correct so what does that tell? Primary and secondary pump running over comes a partially blocked filter or increases pressure to near correct value? Not sure but Gonna find out soon.

Ctt 06 doesn't run well on acceleration but cruise and idle perfect. I get around 385km per tank and that's no exactly fuel saving driving style really. But a fair portion of highway driving and stop start.

Hi Thomas, today I removed all the pipes on the drivers side, cleaned and inspected everything, I found the black pipe connector which screws to the turbo inlet was not tighten on the bottom screw, I can't say if it was leaking air in but I had hoped I may have found something. For the turbo outlet pipe I replaced the o-ring you pictured above, the pipe doesn't fit tight now ahhhhhhh and wobbles around , why why why? I checked it 5 times to make sure all was in correctly clip is secure etc but it still wobbles around which doesn't seem right. Any body experience this? Normal? Corrective action required? Will it leak? See pictures clip is on correctly, last picture I even installed it upside down to see if would stop wobbling around and be tight but no chance. I checked the turbo also no shaft play radial or axial and no visible damage to impellor. Checked dv all ok, (it was new few months ago but you never know) Changed the DV vacuum pipe from the T to the DV, old pipe wasn't leaking but anyways whilst I'm there. On short drive home ran like crap really, I did reset the dtc so fuel trims would be zero'd and need relearning. Will see what its like in the morning have a long-ish run to the site early morning blast high speed. I notice if I do run long high speed the car will try to behave better than in traffic dogging it around, explain that someone pls? Top it all off, Reversed in to parking bay and rear parking sensors not working double red lights means another sensor is dead again... already replaced one and it ain't cheap. Always something init! I just washed it before leaving warehouse so I bet water is inside one of em!

Fitted the pipe should be inside and almost flush against the turbo outlet opening, the clip just sits in a groove either side which stops the pipe from coming out, the oring inside around the pipe really does the job I'm of keeping the pipe snug and leak tight. Are you sure the oring is in there? Sorry I can't find a picture of this installed. I changed the turbo to n75 valve reference boost pipe the other day, removed all the piping on the passenger side checked everything looking for some leak which could make this silly screech noise, found nothing, cleared codes and went for a drive, made no difference. The search continues. ....

Thanks Ciaka. Yep were talking about them thomas. Now I wish I had bought some off ebay when Ive been buying other stuff. So do we thing the strut mount has an effect on rumbles and steering wheel vibrations as well as the knock? My thinking is not so much but I'm often wrong. I think I'm looking at another long day then, will strip out the passenger side to investigate this boost leak noise and at the same time drop out the strut and replace the top mount bush (upper control arm is new just a few weeks ago), same time I will check the inner lower control arm bushes for cracks as well. I've got a new upper control arm for the drivers side as well (came as a two pack off ebay) I might as well swap that now as well and replace the strut mount bush and check the inner lower control arm bushes for crack too this side. There is no play in the track rod ends and steering feels tight, bottom ball joints look good also so after this little mission the front end should be good to go. Not ruling out yet uneven tyre wear and/or wheel balance either!

Ctt 06 115,000km Got some vibration and rumbling that developed over the past 2,000km, usually up around 100-150km, if you hammer it acceleration wise it feels worse. Maybe not associated is the passenger side will knock loudly if I hit a speed bump fast as the suspension is compressed. I've strip that side replaced the upper control arm which was worn on the ball joint, also rebuilt the driveshaft with new boots and grease. All looks OK and tight. Alignment was done also Ok. Tyres are fairly new about 5,000 km max, so will balance and rotate first and alignment check again before going any further for the vibration and rumble. The suspension knock I'm thinking lower control arm inner bushes or top mount bush is smashed to pieces inside the strut? (Fyi cardan shaft new at 80,000km and not felt in the rear and centre, all front end feeling coming) What do you reckon guys?

So it confirmed yours is the Delphi type and not Hitachi which is the other type? I've had both long story short Delphi came as a reman to replaced the faulty Hitachi original. The Delphi reman was a POS, Sent it back broken after two days of driving, bought a brand new Hitachi and never looked back. The regulator is very hard to find and soldering in with the chance that when you fit and drive you find it still doesn't work right.......F that just buy a new one. The Hitachi is by far a better quality and slightly smaller meaning R+R is so much easier. Check out my other post

If you don't have 12.6 volts when measuring with multi meter from the battery jumping terminals in the engine bay then the battery is done or charging problem exists. Another test, put the front lights on and have someone crank it, if the light do very dim or cut off the hello battery. Get another car and jump start it, if it starts then test the battery and see if the charging voltage is above 13.2v and ideally around 13.8v. Go for a long drive with as much electrical load off as possible and come back to your preferred place to stop (it may not start again), then switch off and get multi meter and test voltage whilst someone else cranks to start the engine again, if you see the voltage start at less then 12.6 volts then drop to less than 9.8volts when cranking over (assuming it turns over now) then the battery is most likely fudged. Even after just one year short journeys parasitic power leaks drain the battery when parked up and or the alternator failing cause these cars batteries to not last long. Also make sure you get the right battery 110ah and 950cca. I replaced my battery when I bought the car in Feb, the alternator failed 6 months later and I cheekly Sent the battery back to claim warranty as it had not been charging properly and was not passing my drop test when cranking, it would go to 8.8 volts, a new battery will hold almost 10volts which is perfect. They confirmed it was faulty and replaced foc under the warranty.

After changing the maf sensors I'm happy to report my old ones were probably aging quiet gracefully but sad to report my new ones were likely a waste of money FFS. I mean a great investment in reliability..........ahem Just think what that 120euro could have done on a night out in Amsterdam? Anyway driving like a bigger turd now I took her back to the warehouse for a talking to. Tested the DV's and vac pipes all fine, pressurised the wastegates and pipes via the n75 valve pipe connection up to 15psi was perfect not a squeak of air leak from the new home made vac pipes, decided F it smoke it. Did the hilly Billy smoke test and no leaks, opened the AOS expecting it to be broken hence the screech noises but no its perfect no splits or anything (new one I ordered over a week ago still in the post according to Russian Federation tracking, 4 days flying from Russia to uae? Must be one of those solar powered planes or something). Cleaned the throttle body, So Wtf. Putting the air filter back in the drivers side I see the orange soft rubber outer seal is misshapen at the corner and could possibly leak air past the gap at high air flow and maybe make a silly ballon noise. So I wasn't able to mould it back to it original shape but instead put some pvc tape in the gap before squashing the cover over it. Haven't had time to screech test it yet, just did the throttle alignment on the vcds and checked for dtc, none found. Here is the post cat o2 sensors graph bank 2 in green is not as Controlled or stable as bank 1, but when I looked at bank 1+2 precat o2 sensor they are perfect steady almost flat line holding lambda 1v and revving produces fluctuations consistent with what would be expected. Even holding at 2100rpm the car shakes as it's obviously not happy but the data still says nope I'm perfectly fine with this carry on as you were. Ffs. Why why why So as the condition of the cat and post cat o2 sensor output has no feedback loop it doesn't dictate the engines running I guess this just means one cat is worse than the other? Help Long term Fuel trims are -0.8 and short -3.1. So I'm slightly rich no biggie? Left the piggy in the warehouse as punishment and went home in the Audi. Tomorrow got a lovely meeting with some D*ck heads in Abu Dhabi so will go swap cars and take the Cayenne for a long run and see what's it like. Probably same as I'm not finding any smoking guns.

Well blow me, great find that one. Well done for persevering and updating the forum. Normally an immobiliser issue prevents starting but to have it start and run then cut out would throw off even the best auto technician. Big Props.

The oil on the right side indicates pcv carry over. You need to test your three way check valve and AOS diaphragm. Also you need to remove the lower turbo to intercooler pipe drain the oil clean it and replace the o-rings they are a few dollars only. (this is likely where the oil is leaking from that hose and them o-rings). Then sadly you need to clean the Maf sensor that side again and the MAP sensor and the throttle body them do adaption with software (first also clear dtc now to erase fuel trims and learnt values) or if no code reader disconnect battery for 30 mins and after reconnection set ignition to on position with engine not running and let the throttle adapt itself for 60 seconds. Switch the ignition off, then on again and start engine, let it idle for at least 5 minutes and it will be adapted, then go for a nice long drive with cruising and high speed wot bursts. If after all that you still have problems then need to look further into sensor malfunction ie maf or o2 plus more likely vac leak on a pipe somewhere. Infact I'm doing most of this work myself this week when I get the parts. New oem Bosch maf's, new AOS its split and making screecchh noise under high boost and the lower boost hose is one of the ones I have not yet removed and replaced o-rings yet although my smoke test didn't reveal any leaks I'm anal about these things and after spending so much to make this puppy purr I'm going the whole 9 yards to make it perfect F the cost and my time is free. Its also my escape from the stress of real work. Got a new upper control arm to do on this drivers side as well so wheel liner, bottom cover and all this stuff coming out anyhow so makes sense to wrap it up into a big job. Will get my apprentice Eng. to take pics as we go through it stage by stage and also will replace the dv vac pipe that side just for the hell of it. If I had the chance to do it again one time (especially when the engine was out), I would replace all vac and pcv pipes, n75 valve solenoid, change over valve solenoid, check valves, AOS, orings for all boost pipes, with pipe cleaning of oil carry over, replace both maf's, all coils and plugs, water pump, tensioner, belt and idlers pulleys. Just for piece of mind and future difficulty to change. Alot of pipes can use common pneumatic equipment and not oem expensive pipes. Get original Bosch sensors from them direct for more than 60% less cost. This list if budgeted and done when buying an old cayenne turbo would give many pleasurable motoring for many more km. (we are assuming the basic are good here, block, valve train and key transmission/drivetrain components).

Interesting Technical debate chaps. After seeing engine flush go in like water and come out like Tar I do see the logic behind pre-flush. Ironically if the bore(s) is scored the cost of the pre-flush will be long forgotten. Gotta make light of it. Supra P!G I bought my ctt and head gasket blew shortly after, cost me 4,000usd including all the parts this thing has had new.

The other possible fault is the sensor is not flush with he bumper and it sees the edge and false warning happens when slow turning. My front does this which is annoying but ignorance is bliss sometimes. I would suggest you have intermittent or weak sensor(s). Some fail due to water ingress, after car wash or rain shower they play up I've read. Find the one with no click or a weak click and likely you found the culprit.

From my understanding if the main battery is good it will start, second battery or not ,(maybe wrong here but I'm sure the fail safe logic is that). If you can select gears and lights etc are on then I rule out brake pedal sensor and ignition position/entry drive kessy system as they won't allow dash lights to come on if an issue. Also the gear couldn't be selected from park if it was not working. Can you hear the starter click? If yes then two possibles, first the starter motor is faulty or the current/voltage to start is not enough, second possibility is an Auxiliary is jammed ie the alternator (ask me how I know) the water pump the AC compressor to the engine is seized. If you have a click then release the serpentine belt tensioner and take the belt off the water pump pulley. You can then proceed to spin the pulleys of water pump alternator and AC which should all turn by hand, also the guide roller too. The crankshaft pulley you would need a spanner or socket and ratchet to rotate the engine by hand. Very unlike you engine is seized so I wouldn't bother to go any further. Next if all free to turn is remove the inlet manifold and remove the start motor. It actually really simple to do. I rebuilt mine after a good clean following an investigation into a non start which was a seized alternator. The starter motor condition was very good brush length was plenty and no visible wear at 115k km. What's your mileage? If no starter motor click then try jump leads from another big engined car/4x4 or strong heavy duty battery on the battery connector points in the engine bay right side under cover trim, this will rule out power delivery issue. If this doesnt work then starter relay, fuses or ignition switch crank position problem or start wire to starter motor fault. Any fault codes?