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lewisweller

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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. lewisweller
    I think I have just cured the lean running misfire stutter and hesitation at varying low rims. Today I smoke tested the intake assembly by blocking off the intake pipes before the maf sensor and putting my hillbilly inspired plastic bottle and cigarette with compressed air injection placed into the MAP sensor hole. Worked a treat but didn't show any leaks. Whilst I was there I thought to check the vacuum pipes again which I fixed before for the Divertor valves, I was suppressed to find the right side DV was leaking through the vac hose. I removed it and replaced with ne 710 P revision. (the left is I already new and doesn't leak). So put it all back together and just the short drive home I could feel the car adapting the stutter misfire and smoothing the power out as you would expect it too normally. Some more driving should learn the dme the right mixture and long fuel trims and hopefully end of the nightmare I been chasing for months.
  2. lewisweller
    Are you able to log and screen shot the data for each injector with the scale set so we can see the pulse width and closing spike voltage. This will help me see if the injector is problem or your running lean due to vacuum leak and the dme is purposely opening longer the injector to richer the mixture. If your up for it, you can check the injector with an ohm meter, each one should have similar resistance. If your log the data we can see any problem without measuring the ohms of each injector though. Another thought is you changed the o2 sensors but did you check the wiring harnesses? What does the data for the o2 sensors look like?
  3. lewisweller
    Given that the o2 sensors and fuel system has been checked I would be looking at vacuum leak, fuel injector sticking or blockage, and possibly temperature sensor. What are your fuel trims looking like? When your at idle and rev to 1500 and 2500 rpm you should see rapid changes in short term fuel trims. Another consideration is low compression on one or more cylinders and a burnt non properly sealing exhaust valve. When they did my head Gasket the exhaust valves were pretty well burnt and they grinder them and cleaned up well. My compression test pre head Gasket proved they were not leaking so I didn't replace the valves at 120$ each omg. So have you done a compression test and leak down check? This is first for me. Then if your confident your leak test was thorough then try some moly lube injector cleaner in the tank to maybe release a suspected injector sticky. With out my detailed data from the o2 sensor and fuel trims on load and off load it's very hard to work this out.
  4. lewisweller
    Thanks Ekstroemtj. I had a look at that but after review people said it was a good scan tool but couldn't reset oil, service reminders which is a pita. I think the extra cash invested in durametric is a wise choice when I have the pennies saved up. Anyone else got their opinion pls pipe in
  5. lewisweller
    I done some more searching and I notice also in your other post you are having running issues once warm but cold running Is better? So this would point at a closed loop related issue. The o2 sensor only comes into play once engine temp is up to a certain temp. If an o2 sensor is not responding it will most likely see a lean condition and fuel trims will be affected. If you have durametric you can check the sensors and fuel trims to see what data is shown. I sadly don't have durametric yet but on the wish list as will save a lot of money in garage bills and fault finding.
  6. lewisweller
    Wow you thrown so cash at this pig. What about o2 sensor and temp sensor? I've heard some members changed the first o2 sensor after having running issues without fault code. But I don't advocate swapping parts in the hope to find the problem cause unless money is no issue and problem keeps you awake at night. Lol. The cayenne has so many vac pipes it unbelievable and at these ages so many brittle plastic pipes make life he'll to find leaks without a leak tester. What I found must profound was after I drive mine for 600km following head Gasket engine out top end rebuild was it ran better. When I first got it back from garage it was terrible still, I then found the vac pipe leaking and replaced the DV's. After it got better and better stutter wise. Then I disconnected the battery and I went back to running and stuttering like a chump. Dme learning or adaption must be at play here but I don't understand why it runs like a turd for so long? I also do belive the pcv side is leaking somewhere because when I pull the dip stick out whilst running it won't even bat am eye lid, rpm stable at 500 you would even know it was out. So if you pull your dip stick out does the engine react? Other member have said it does. So this leads me to think I have a small pcv leak and it compensated for it and possibly this is causing the stutter? All complete guess work I know.
  7. lewisweller
    Mbagge01 FYI I replied to your post "shuddering boost" started in April. Check your N75 soleniod which controls boost! When hot can malfunction apparently. I may have the same issue. I will be changing mine when I'm off vacation and cleaning my MAP sensor in the hope I can kill this bug once and for all.
  8. lewisweller
    How did you perform the pressure test?. I've had stutter and surging on my ctt at 2k 3k and 4k approx rpms but to red line it's perfect and despite finding a split vac pipe from the change over valve to the T piece near the Throttle body, which made a great improvement to boost the stutter is still there. I would suggest you clean your Maf sensors and the MAP sensor. I've read this can also cause stutter and on boost related problems. When I get back from vacation I'm doing the MAP sensor, MAF cleaning done and no difference. I don't have any fault codes or CEL ever. If you switch off the PSM does this change it? If so you know it the tuning/DME issue that I've read used to be an issue which Porsche had an update for apparently, although Im leaning towards this being manufacturer speak for we can't really fix this characteristic. I've posted a lot about my issues but your the first to have anything the same or similar. Most others are ignition or boost related issues with fault codes to mention. Looking forward to your replies.
  9. lewisweller
    Your problem sounds like the AC compressor clutch is intermittently working. Some time if you switch of the engine and back on it might engage the compressor again and then the rest of the day it works fine. I have the same issue on a golf R I sold a while back. It was better if used often but if a few days left outside it would kick the compressor in first time and needed to off on the car once again.
  10. lewisweller
    I did the valve cover gaskets and If don't have a male torx slim deep socket like I didn't you can use a deep reach 1/4" drive 8, 9 or 10mm socket instead. Sorry can't remember the exact size that fitted, I also had to use this for the male torx bolts on the torque arm bracket bolted to the valve cover. It's a fiddly place to get at but some blood, sweat and four letter words will see you through it. Good luck
  11. lewisweller
    Did you ever fix this? I have a ctt with E81 power kit from new as option from dealer, my boost is +0.8bar but I also have he shudder stutter at 2000, 3000 and 4000rpm approx and yes when boosting. I have researched the n75 solenoid which controls the waste gate is to blame. It is located next the Throttle body, it has three vacuum tubes and one electrical connector attached to it. Another possibility is the map sensor, try removing and cleaning it and lastly the maf sensors cleaning. I've found with mine if driven for some km like 1000 the problem will lessen but not disappear, when I disconnected the battery and reconnected it ran rough for ages. Dme learning? Or dme update required to address? All questions and no firm answers so far.
  12. lewisweller
    Converted it's like 15-16mpg
  13. lewisweller
    I'm having trouble with check tail light warning I hit the brake, it led 2008 type rear cluster and I've checked everything and narrowed it down to when voltage is 13.2v then it will always trip the warning on dash, if you turn lights of and on again warning disappears until again you hit the brake. Im convinced I will have to change the comfort module to fix this and coding. I didn't think about the keys as well, so I hope my independant garage who has Piwis is going to be able to complete all the programming. Has any one got experience of this and fixed it? There must be someone, pls hit us up with your knowledge wealth.
  14. lewisweller
    Try this link for glove box removal http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/30-BODY-Glove_Box_Catch_Replacement/30-BODY-Glove_Box_Catch_Replacement.htm And this link to replace the regulator http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/35-ELEC-HVAC_Blower_Fan_and_Regulator_Replacement/35-ELEC-HVAC_Blower_Fan_and_Regulator_Replacement.htm
  15. lewisweller
    300-340 km per tank on 06 turbo with e81 power kit. I think this is terrible but running issues I think are contributing alittle to this figure maybe? Any one else got some ctt figures?
  16. lewisweller
    Then they didn't do the job properly simple as that. Insist they remove it again and do it right. I would also be there when they take it off to see why they cocked it up.
  17. lewisweller
    If it's the interior AC blower fan then change the regulator, renowned for intermitted problems. Remove the glove box and the fan unit can be accessed and removed with regulator. At the same time clean and lube the fan motor bearing.
  18. lewisweller
    Did they change 1-4 or 5-8 bank? You mentioned cylinder 1 before then mentioned cylinder 5 later, now cylinder 7 is leaking after new gaskets. Is it possible they did 1-4 bank instead?
  19. lewisweller
    Weapons777 Are we talking about the engine compartment radiator fan or the blower fan inside the car no working properly?
  20. lewisweller
    I won't mention the garage and wouldn't recommend you either. I suggest you go to z-degrees in al quoz for AC gassing but you say the fan doesn't work so that has to be fixed ofcourse. If the AC works OK when driving I would say the AC gas and compressors etc are Ok. It is just the fan not running which is the problem. Go see chad at Motor Mec 050 739 10 33, also in al quoz just around the corner from Porsche service centre in fact. we should meet up I really got to see what another ctt drives like compared to mine, I think mine is a bit rough and under powered, but I might be used to my audi which is F quick and expecting too much from this heavy beast. Lol
  21. lewisweller
    Try this one http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/653488-torn-rear-armrest-repaired-for-7-a.html
  22. lewisweller
    Email sent!
  23. lewisweller
    Try this thread. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43820-removing-rear-cayenne-seat/
  24. lewisweller
    This is good advice and spot on technically RE oil from pcv not turbo Seals. I would add that the MAF is straight after the air filter and is not able to be contaminated with oil, it could be covered in dust/dirt grime or if you have an oiled after market cotton air filter this can transfer oil to the maf sensors. Where is the pressure location please?
  25. lewisweller
    To get to the maf sensors just unclip the filter air box, and pipe connecting to it by rotating the plastic torxs bolts to line up the marks and then pull out. The you have enough access to put a small socket with 1/4" Driver to unbolt the jubilee clip and remove the pipe and maf complete. Then taking the maf off the pipe or if you have the special tool unbolt in the maf from it housing is straight forward. When cleaning don't go too crazy with the cleaner M, some people have caused maf failure but they must have soaked it rather than spraying and allowing to dry a couple of times. What about you boost pressure sensor, I think it can also be cleaned but I'm not sure where it is accessible from.
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