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Everything posted by dpatel710

  1. Found another post that documents this with pictures - https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-955-957-2003-2010/929076-fuse-12-in-the-waterbox-2.html
  2. I am having this same set of issues - brake booster light, secondary air pump code/CEL, and the coolant after run pump is not running. 04 CTT. I wrongly assumed that the coolant after run pump motor died and replaced the pump. After reading this thread, I found the F12 5A fuse to be blown. I replaced the fuse, started the car, and the brake booster pump works again but the coolant after run pump still does not function in "rest mode". I could not test if the SAI pumps work as the car was already warm. Visually, the relays look fine - no corrosion or obvious defect. I have a voltmet
  3. Turned out to just be stubborn air bubbles in the system that even the vacuum bleeder couldn't get out. I was able to bleed it the old fashioned way with a large funnel stuck into the reservoir and A LOT of hose squeezing.
  4. I have bled the car system several times. The uview airlift cooling bleeder worked well and did the trick for getting the air out. Pulled vac down to -25 and filled slowly, idled the car with the cap off up to operating temp, and once operating temperature was reached I put the cap back on (per instructions in the uview kit). New issue - Car only blow heat at idle. Temperature gauge is dead steady in the middle at all speeds. Anything over 2k rpm and the car starts to blow cold air. What the heck??? Could it be the secondary electric coolant pump going bad? HVAC system worked fine
  5. Hot is normal if the pump has been running for awhile. I had the same issue, all the visible connections were fine and I had jb welded them. If all the normal locations check out, there is one connection under the wiper motor assembly which is not visible for inspection. That's where my crack was and I caved and ordered new lines and an updated vac pump from an audi (same part #, diff letter at the end for newer revision).
  6. More research shows that the cayenne's cooling system is a PITA to bleed right. Ordered the proper vac bleeder and will try again. If that fails, I will try "rocking" the car to help burp it.
  7. I was unable to find the correct CCV without ordering trough gogal directly so I opted for compressor replacement. Picked up a used one off an 06 CS.
  8. Long read but I did a lot of work and am at the end of my rope figuring out what is wrong here - I need some help! Did a major maintenance service on the 04 CTT as it approaches 200k. Replaced all the various bits on the front of the motor with the car in service position. Pulleys, tensioner, rollers, alternator, ac compressor, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, upper+lower radiator hoses, diverter valves, etc Vacuum bled the system and tried to burp it but it is running hot and holding at the 3rd bar. Tried the heater at max but it is only blowing cold air.
  9. I replaced the compressor and dryer, all is well now. Before replacement - low side was around 35, high 150. After replacement - low 30, high 175.
  10. Gotcha, I will try the CCV rather than a used compressor as my next step. Thank you for the help!!
  11. I ran into trouble with this too - ended up using NGKs website and their recommended plugs. My CTT had 4 prong plugs in it from the PO. I switched back to single prong - didn't notice any difference although the 4 prong ones were def due for the swap when I got to them. I ordered a coil pack kit for my CTT and it came with the single prong plugs for the NA V8 and those were gapped to 1.6mm. I returned the plugs and then ordered the NGK recommended plugs for the turbo which came gapped to 0.8mm....Although their website doesn't reflect this difference.
  12. Thanks Brett! I did see your past posts and this is next on the troubleshooting list. I tried a deep vac and recharge by weight, replaced cabin filter, then replaced the condenser fan and relay. The car fooled me and the ac seemed to be working better after the fan replacement but it was just cooler weather at the time. Still no real improvement but I have noticed that the AC will randomly blow ice cold on long road trips - leads me to think its something going on with the compressor. When I did the recharge, at idle - low side 32, high at 150. Around 2k r
  13. My a/c went from working well in the sweltering Florida heat to barely keeping the cabin cool on 80F days. First check of the low side was at 35 with ambient temps around 75F. A tad low but still within range on the gauge I have. Tried topping it off to 40psi and the vent temps actually jumped up a few degrees. VCDS shows no faults for hvac and measuring blocks show positive voltage, load, and rpm's for the compressor. The vents blow around 55F at LO with the outside temperature around 75F. While checking the low side pressure, I did notice t
  14. Great looking p!g! I'm not too sure about the whine but an easy troubleshooting step would be to flush the front diff fluid and check for metal particles. If you have a lot, it may be time for a new diff. Also, try adding a bottle of oil stabilizer. I added lucas oil stabilizer to mine and it hushed up most of the noises that it was making. Good luck!
  15. Different car but the same procedure applies. I did this on my Audi and used the same steps on the Cayenne. The cayenne cycles through fluid quick! To avoid the car firing up for 1-2 seconds and shutting it off, I pulled the fuel pump fuses prior to flushing. http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/psflush.html
  16. Mine presented the same way initially. There is a servo motor that controls the temp mixer flaps on each side, it has probably gone bad on the passenger side. You can remove the glove box and IIRC the mixer flap is the lower servo, outboard (towards the radio). You can grab the flap and move it to see if the temp changes on the passenger side. See the following link for more info:
  17. Sounds like the servo motors. I eventually had mine fail shut so that I had no ventilation in the car.
  18. Brake booster fault fixed. Turned out the only area of the line that can’t be visually inspected was cracked at one of the valves, per usual. It was located under the wiper assembly. The audi part number for the booster pump seems to work. It is a newer revision than the 7L0 part number that was in the car. Plus, they can be had for ~$20 off eBay.
  19. I had a similar issue. Replaced the door lock actuators with ones from 05/06 cayenne and haven’t had any trouble since. If you are diy handy, it can be done at home. You have to remove the door card, disconnect the handle and cable, then remove the outer screws holding the door skin in place, and finally unbolt the two large bolts that sit on the inside of the door from by the hinges. Afterwards, the door skin and window frame will slide out of the hollow sheet metal part of the door and the locking actuator can be replaced. The rivets have to be drilled out and a new ones can be p
  20. All the parts are in - the steering is heavy and precise now. The joints on the new lemforder parts were loose (could move by hand) but had no play in them. On the old parts, my upper control arms were completely shot, the metal sleeve in the center separated from the rest of the bushing. Lower rear bushings were cracked. Surprisingly, the strut mounts were in good shape. Ratcheting 21mm and 18mm wrenches were very helpful for doing this. As an added bonus, some of the vibration I had on the highway has gone away as a result. Now, I am dealing with the brake booster
  21. They are lemforder parts. Everything looks new and the joints themselves don’t have any play in them. We’ll see how it goes....
  22. I got my front suspension parts in and was checking out the joints and noticed something unusual (to me). On the lower control arms and the tie rod ends, the joints are pretty loose but movement is smooth. Is this normal for the cayenne tie rod ends/control arms? When I replaced the tie rods and arms on my Audi, the joints on the new arms/ends were so stiff I couldn’t move them by hand. Update: Installed new parts and all is well.
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