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ScottW

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Everything posted by ScottW

  1. ScottW
    "Normal" turbo wheels do not have spacers, the only ones I know of that have spacers from the factory and that can be left out for the narrow body are the Sport Techno wheels. -Scott
  2. ScottW
    The manuals says 130 Nm (= 96 ft-lb) -scott
  3. ScottW
    Hi Paul, I've been looking into this a little recently. Brey-Krause makes several different models. I don't have experience with any of them, just heard about them on the boards and reading the website. I think you need to add an additional bar beneath the front seat mounting rails for the anti-submarine belts, but I don't think that would interfere with day-to-day operation of your seats. http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/harnessmount.php -Scott
  4. ScottW
    Okay, that sounds better. Good luck with the car, I've had mine for just over 2 years and it's been great. -Scott
  5. ScottW
    Hold on a mintue, I am confused. Is 82 the original sticker or asking price? I assumed that was sticker and selling prices was much lower. If asking price is 82, skip it and shop around. -Scott
  6. ScottW
    Thanks for posting here Brett. I hope we can get a good group together. I hope most of the people from the first DIY day will come too. -Scott
  7. ScottW
    Tough call. I'd bet those miles were not "easy" miles, but probably not to the point of abuse, since most of the miles probably had a salesman along for the ride. Have you checked to see if any warranty work was done? Try contacting the old dealer and ask if any service records exist. The C4S is a wonderful car, but if you'll be driving around with a bunch of doubt in the back of your mind, then I don't think you'd be able to fully enjoy it. If you can put those thoughts away and just think that anything that goes wrong will be covered by warranty and fully enjoy it, then I'd say go for it. Are you comfortable with the price? My local dealer had a remaining 2004 C4S that was over $12k off sticker. I'm not sure of the mileage, but it was advertised as "new". Good luck with your decision, Scott
  8. ScottW
    The first San Diego work on cars day was a lot of fun and I learned quite a few new things. Thanks to Dieter (dieterro2) for hosting us at his house. Also attending were Dave (dbelleperc), Paul (drpaulmarsh) and joining us from all the way in OC was Jim (Coaster). Paul has some new pads and rotors for his C2 and we made a trip to Costco at the end so Jim could pick-up a floor-jack that he couldn't find at his local Costco. We had planned to do my brakes as well, but the brown Santa (aka UPS man) didn't show up with my pads. And of course, thanks to Renntech for the DIY instructions. I'm looking forward to the next one. For that one, we should post over on the Boxster board as well. -Scott
  9. ScottW
    My local dealer has it on sale for $1319.99. That's the lowest I've seen http://0038637.netsolhost.com/pcsd/parts.htm Click the link at the far left that says "Looking for a bargain? We've got it!" and you'll get a pdf with their sale prices. I think the one you want is 000 044 200 21. -Scott
  10. ScottW
    Personally, I'm fine with the stock pedals. IMO, a solid rubber pedal is better than the rubber dots. They look cool, but when do you actually see them? There was a thread over at 6speedonline about a group buy from Gert and/or Ruf. I don't remember whether they picked Ruf or Gert's, but search and you can probably find the thread. -Scott *EDIT* Here's the thread http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=24370
  11. ScottW
    Congratulations. Sunset Imports has parts at cost +15% (see link at top of window). Carnewal is great, but unfortunately the exchange is not too favorable right now. If you still have the CD holder, I'd recommend you replace it with another "shelf", available from your local dealer or from ebay (from a Porsche dealer). IMO, the CD holder is not a very efficient use of that space. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...7970036249&rd=1 The aluminum shifter is a good choice, I did that and the handbrake. I got mine from Suncoast Porsche. http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996IN If your mats are worn, you can get these Lloyd mats with a C4S logo. Lloyd is licensed to use Porsche logos/script and I hear they are good mats. My mats are starting to wear a bit and I'm probably going to get these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33697 Enjoy. -Scott
  12. ScottW
    So my local dealer is having a sale right now on parts and on the sale sheet, there is an item listed as 000 044 500 38 LOWERING KIT C4S 20MM ($1649) I found this part number in the ROW Tequipment catalog and it is listed as 000 044 500 38 retrofit kit, lowering 20MM consisting: 996 333 980 15 spring strut (qty 2) 996 343 980 31 spring strut (qty 1) 996 343 980 32 spring strut (qty 1) 996 375 049 90 engine mounting (qty 2) So my questions are: 1. Is this the X73? In the ROW 996 PET, it shows individual p/n for springs and shocks, so I can't tell. 2. Why are there three p/n for the spring/strut? Are the two rear the same and different fronts or vice versa? thanks, Scott
  13. ScottW
    Cool! Please try to get before and after measurements as well as pictures. -Scott
  14. ScottW
    Is this it? http://www.performanceproducts.com/Product...&producttype=20 -Scott
  15. ScottW
    If we assume the numbers above are correct, then yes, it does lower it more than an inch. It will be -40mm front and -30mm rear, which is 1.57" front and 1.18" rear. I believe all of these measurements are +/-10mm (+/-0.4"), so it could be a bit less, or a bit more. I saw one post on Rennlist from a guy that was selling his X73 because it was too stiff for him. He made a comment about "too stiff for my old bones", so I'm not sure if it would be too stiff for me. You might want to try asking around here and other forums to see if you can get a ride in a car with X73 from a local owner. -Scott
  16. ScottW
    Jim, I've been researching this for a while and I'm leaning towards the ROW suspension for the C4S for my nearly daily-driver. There are several options. 1. Factory ROW Suspension (-20mm front, -10mm rear) 2. Factory X73 Suspension (-20mm f/r relative to ROW) 3. Bilstein PSS9 / H&R Coilovers (adjustable) 4. H&R / Eibach Springs only ROW: I believe it has the same spring rates as the USA suspension, just a bit lower all around. X73: I think the X73 would be too low, since I already scrape the front, and also too stiff with the roads here. PSS9: Fully height adjustable and many people say that it rides better than stock. I think this option is the most flexible with the adjustable compression and rebound, but I don't think I really need that and frankly, I think I'd get the settings wrong. Springs only: I've been tempted by this because it is by far the cheapest solution. I've read that it is best to use matched springs/shocks, and with springs only, you're operating the shocks outside of their normal range. Some say the shock life will be shortened dramatically by doing this. -Scott
  17. ScottW
    If you are unable to find one, you can order it from Carnewal for 27Euro , or it might even be small enough to get from your local dealer. Gert has both versions here: http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_p96078.htm -Scott
  18. ScottW
    Kevin, Thanks for the heads-up. According to this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3728&hl= that's the old part number for MY01 and older, but it looks like it has the larger bypass pipes of the new one. Can anyone clarify? -Scott
  19. ScottW
    Is this the same one available here? http://www3.us.porsche.com/english/usa/ent...ver/default.htm -Scott
  20. ScottW
    I believe this applies to your car: Left: Part no. 996 111 981 02 Right: Part no. 996 111 982 02 from this page: http://www2.porsche.com/isapi/english/usa/...kat=Performance -Scott
  21. ScottW
    Perfect. Thanks Loren.
  22. ScottW
    Here's the thread that shows two of the switch types. Look for the picture posted by Sandy. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2227&hl= I believe the Targa switch matches the top switch. The PSM is like the one on the bottom because it has the status light. When I did mine, I connected pins 4+5 from the PSM switch to pins 3+5 on the targa switch. I dunno what options your car has, but if you can find a switch of the same type (without the status light), then just connect the new switch in parallel with the old one using the same pins (3+5). If you need to connect it to the other type, do what I did. Good luck. -Scott
  23. ScottW
    I just did this recently using the same switch. I tapped the backlight from the PSM switch, and just plugged in the two wires to the backlight on the targa/garage-door-opener switch. Ideally, you could just pick the same two wires used for backlight, but there are at least two different kind of switches. The PSM switch has a status light, so I had to figure out which wires were used as a backlight. Someone posted schematics of the two switches on here a while back. I'll try to find the thread and link to it. -Scott
  24. ScottW
    Could someone please give me the equivalent P/Ns for C4S that are shown in the DIY Brake Pad change? Are there any significant differences in the steps required or is the procedure the same? Thanks, Scott
  25. ScottW
    Can we search with 3 char minimum instead of 4? Is there any downside to this? Thanks, Scott
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