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I've never seen "bug marks" that could not be cleaned up. Are you sure the dealer is diagnosing correctly? I've seen many things that can etch the paint over time and this may be what happened to this truck. You need a handheld or smartphone microscope to determine the defect and subsequent paint correction accurately. My 2012 S has lots of road rash for lack of a better term on the hood area. I use Meguiar's black wax to minimize visually.
Did you try soaking the screw side in PB Blaster or equivalent?
Replaced the valve lift solenoid. All is good now.
Brake system flush, both differentials, transfer case, engine air & cabin filters IMO.
When mine failed (at the dealer coincidentally) during a very cold spell they replaced these components: 999-607-073-00 Fuse 40A & 955-615-010-01 relay. Prior to this "failure" at the dealer I had one instance of chassis system failure that went away during a warmer day. I was not driving the car much at this time FYI. Did not have an issue after the relay & fuse replacement.
I would recommend every 10 or 20K miles for the X-fer case fluid change. I assume you utilized the Porsche -63 recommended fluid???
Very similar to my DTC's. Stepper motor surrogate had no effect. Replaced transfer case with new all good now.
Just out of curiosity why would you want to do this? I check my tires regularly even though all 5 vehicles have TPMS. Just another hassle after 8 years or so when the batteries go bad.
Thanks for the reply. My Indie shop has upgraded to a full PIWIS system so I am going to go there. 1st I am going to get a new battery as mine is (after charging) sitting at 12.21 V. Going to check grounds and relearn the necessary systems and clear the faults. 2nd will be to monitor faults and if they return tackle the valve lift solenoid. 3rd monitor and go forward. Again thx
Looking for advice on 2012 Cayenne S. Can O2 sensor DTCs cause Valve Lift Control DTCs or vice versa? Can't imagine both O2 and valve lift solenoid "failed" at the same time. DTC's are: P0133 O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1 P2097 Post catalyst fuel trim system too rich bank 1 P2195 O2 sensor signal biased/stuck lean bank 1 sensor 1 P1361,62,63 Valve lift control cyl 2, 3, &4 P0302, 303 Misfire Cyl 2 & 3 P0300 Random Multiple misfires P1372 Valve lift control bank 1 P2a01 Mixture bank 1 implausible P0172 System 2 rich bank 1 Looking to see if there are two faults or what to fix 1st. I originally thought bad gas as the errors happened after a fill up but now have burned thru 3 tanks of gas so ruling that out. Just donated need to keep this valuable resource afloat.
A friend of mine just bought a base 2012 $22,500 with 95k miles with several less options than yours. Black with Luxour Beige interior. I would say it is a fair price. Since you said it had the planned maintenance I would see if you could get a copy of the 80K maintenance invoice. Make sure you get a CarFax.
V6 is 300HP Cayenne S is 400, GTS 420, If your RAV4 is a turbo you will miss the turbo in the mountains. I've driven gas and turbo diesel trucks in Colorado no comparison -- go with a turbo IMO. The car you are looking at has some nice options but I would want the air suspension with PASM on any Cayenne. I'll say up front each to their own here. How many miles are on the used vehicle. Is it from a dealer? CPO? Maintenance history available? Put it on a rack and check for leaks and brake pad & rotor condition. Good luck.
I see the Ravenol meets the spec for the Porsche 000-043-301-36 / 00004330136 for Cayenne Transfer Case oil I am curious what the difference might be in the -63 "new" spec. x-fer case oil? In mid-April I will install the -63 oil which will be at 70K miles with 5K miles on the original spec. oil. I figure $60 in fluids is cheap insurance. I'll try to duplicate the pictures Chris shared as a comparison at that time.
Just to be clear my local Indie shop used BMW X-fer case fluid in the change a few hundred miles ago, Vehicle mileage at 65K. I believe this was the 1st change. Regardless, at 70K miles, with the next oil change DIY, I will go with the new OEM fluid per Don's update. My fluid drained relatively clear with no abnormal smells at this time per the Tech. New "superseded" P/N fluid on order at this time.
I have two of these bought 10/15. Great tools. Also have the hand pump type that screw in the top of a quart container. I won't be changing mine to the new fluid for another month or so at the next oil change. I'll have 2 quarts handy in case I spill any. Will report findings then.