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JimEE

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Everything posted by JimEE

  1. Let me add one followup item. I did not notice abnormal wear on my front tires prior to the 4000 mile road trip (I checked the tread depth and it was about 7mm). For the trip the car was "full", ie, front and rear storage areas were packed full (but mostly just camping gear), plus I had a passenger for the whole trip (both of us weigh about 170lbs). I'm wondering if the extra weight might have caused uneven front tire wear. Thanks for all your responses, BTW. Jim
  2. 47K miles on the car. Last alignment when the fronts were new, about 10K ago.
  3. 2000 Boxster S, 47k miles, 10k miles on front PS2's. Just got back from a 4000 mile road trip and was noticing more tire noise than usual. Checked wear and find rears have 7mm inside to outside (even wear, these were new tires just before the road trip). Fronts, though, have 6mm on the outside, 3mm on the inside. (Front tires were not replaced when new rears were put on.) Both fronts have the same wear pattern. Is this just camber or is there something else? Running 30lbs in the fronts. Thanks, Jim
  4. 2000, Boxster S. I didn't do anything and it just started to leak. Well, I was getting it ready for winter storage, so I did do some things!! Washed it for the last time, yesterday, parked it at 55 degrees. Today, pumped the tires to 50, took it out for one last spin to get it fully warmed up (20 degrees outside), about 10 miles. Parked it in its winter spot (55 degrees). Cleaned the windows. Went all around with 303 Protectant on all the rubber stuff. Opened the front hood and did the rubber and wiped the other areas near the battery cover, including the windshield washer fill cap area. After a bit, noticed the fluid leaking with slow but steady drips, from underneath behind the left front wheel well. Dipped my fingers in it and it had essentially no odor. So, I think it's washer fluid, not anti-freeze. Sight greenish color. What the heck? Jim
  5. Don't know why folks are saying ScratchX is a filler. Detailing forums and even the package itself says it's a mild abrasive that quickly breaks down into a polish. I'd definitely try ScratchX on your rough spots, first, before anything more severe, like rubbing compound. When using ScratchX, it requires repeated applications with fresh material, as it breaks down into polish fairly quickly (thus preventing you from easily rubbing through the clear coat). Remove the used ScratchX before adding new, as the old will dilute the new. I've used it remove some fairly severe scratches on my hood and those pesky scratches near door handles, as well as swirl marks in various areas. Easy to use and hard to overdue. Good stuff. Not a filler in my mind. Jim
  6. I've got the ultimate's and they're great. I was talking to a guy with a Cayman and he commented on the Ultimate's and was dissapointed with the cup holders in the Cayman. Evidently, when he has a cup in them and goes around a left turn, they cup holder swings to the right. The other thing about the Ultimate's is that if something does spill, it's right there on the floor, not on the center console or someones leg. Jim
  7. Most important, you shouldn't have any vibration. I'd have them checked out to see if the pads/disc's are OK. What's you're experience with driving this way in this car before the event you describe? Have you driven this or other Porsche's this way before? Have you ever tracked it? And if so, how did the brakes feel? Sometimes, after tracking my car, my cars brakes feel different for awhile, when back on the street, even for a few days. I decided it's more me, than the brakes, as the brakes work fine on the track and fine on the street, but my driving intent is a lot different. That is, after driving on the track, I'm a lot more sensitive to the cars feedback. I have a boxster S with stock street brakes/pads. And I'm hitting the brakes pretty hard slowing from 120-130mph or so, down to about 60mph. These track runs are 20 to 30 minutes but we do 4-5 a day, for 3 days, not 1.5 hours like yours, though. My brakes don't vibrate, either.
  8. I just used the same product. Very strong odor. It's a fluorpolymer, whatever that is. But you definitely need to air out the vehicle and not let it sit closed up. I wonder what Raggtop is? It may also be a fluorpolymer and have the same odor issue. I do know that fluorpolymers are used all over as coatings on all kinds of things. The coatings when used or incorporated, resist dirt, water, and stains and are used in everything from protecting fabrics (tents, tops, clothes, carpets) to a wide array of commercial applications. the "fluor" part means it's a teflon based product, I believe. Jim
  9. I have a 2000 S and had the windshield damaged and it was replaced by Harmon Glass. Everything seemed fine until I tracked it. At 120mph the rubber gasket came loose along the top and the rapidly vibrating rubber was drumming on the soft top, loudly. Did I say loudly! Quite exciting since it was so weird. I simply pushed it back in, taped it down, and continued on the track. Later I had it glued back in place by the local glass man who's used by my Porsche dealer. Just giving you a heads up. Jim
  10. This was my first season doing DE's. I have a 2000 Boxster S with the 18" sport wheels, running with PS2's. It's my daily driver but I store it in winter. I've been thinking of getting another set of wheels and put Sport Cups on them for next season (I still want to drive it to the track). Is there value in running stock 17 inch wheels versus 18? Thanks, Jim
  11. What size wheels, what were your old tires, what are your new tires and what tire pressure are you using? Jim
  12. When my Pzero's got worn down they got VERY noisy. Jim
  13. Try newspaper. Take two sheets, crumple them up, wet one and scrub the window. Dry with the other. Finish with Invisible Glass - great stuff. Jim
  14. This is my first summer of doing DE's with a 2000 S. I don't have toe/heel down and when I downshift while braking I just let the clutch out. Of course I feel a little bump when I do it. I know I wouldn't feel this bump if I was heel/toeing and revving the engine so my downshift was smoother, but how much damage might I be doing by doing this. I have had experienced drivers tell me "not much" and not to worry about it because synchro's are pretty well engineered. Opinions? Thanks, Jim
  15. I have a 2000S. My first set of tires were pzero's, and when I was moving slowly, parking, etc, and turning to near to the lock positions it, too, would tend to stay in that locked position and did take more steering effort to move it off of the lock position. That all disappeared when I put on a set of ps2's. So, I think it's more about the tires, IMHO. Jim
  16. I don't know about Goo Gone, but, I just did this today. Here's what I did. Used dental floss to slide under the existing logo and worked it back and forth to slide along. It was easy, no problems. There is a fair amount of residue left about .5mm thick. I used light pressure with my fingernail to peel it up. Sometimes you can pull up a long string of the residue as it holds together and stretches. Still, there was a little residue left. I, too, thought about Goo Gone, but used Scratch X instead which worked perfect and left a clean smooth surface for the new logo. Jim
  17. If you still have the original coolant reservoir cap, replace it with the upgraded cap (part # ends in 01 instead of 00). I also had a slow loss of fluid in my 2000 S until I did the replacement. With the old cap, I never saw any fluid anywhere, just a slow reduction in the fluid level. It could be other things, too, but this is the simplest, and it's a known problem. Another simple thing it could be is cross threading of the reservoir neck that the cap screws onto, preventing a secure fit. Good luck, Jim
  18. Can you tell me what these two codes mean: P1128, P1130. Thanks, Jim
  19. I have a 2000 Boxster and had trouble with the cigarette lighter, as it tends to blow fuses in certain situations. I think the issue relates to a slightly sloppy fit for some things you might put in it, like the cell phone power plug. It might fit too loose and short out, blowing the fuse. This has also happened to my LED flashlight that recharges in the lighter socket. I've had to take a plastic screw driver and jimmy out the prongs near the back for a more snug fit. But sometimes just putting in the flashlight will short out the lighter fuse. Easy fix though. Jim
  20. I have a 2000 Boxster S, 6 speed, with 30,000 miles. Just before my 30k inspection, my check engine light came on and stayed on (steady not blinking) for the 4 days or so until I got it in the shop (Porsche dealer). Dealer said the readout indicated a bad O2 sensor, but he checked it out and it was OK. So, they didn't replace it, and reset the readout and did the rest of the 30k inspection. About a week after the 30K inspection, the light came on again. But I kept driving it (it was steady not flashing), and I figured I'd need to go in and get the O2 sensor replaced, and made the appointment. But then the check engine light went out. So, I cancelled the appointment. Drove another week and all was fine. But then, the check engine light came on again (steady, not flashing). I drove it that way for a week. My normal driving to work is all I was doing, but that driving is mostly in the 30mph range, as I don't get on a freeway. So, I thought maybe the slow driving was causing the O2 sensor some problems. I went out on a 25mile freeway romp about 80mph in 4th gear, keeping the rev's around 4k or so. The light was still on. Next day I went to work, light still on, but then, after work, the light was off. I seem to notice that when the chk engine light is on, my car runs rougher, if it's cold (just after starting). Now, maybe all these chk engine lights are for the O2 sensor and maybe not. I'll have to bring into the shop to find out. But, has anyone ever experienced this intermittency?? I'm thinking it might be a connection instead of the sensor itself, since past experience in all things electrical/electronic often indicate connection issues when the problems are intermittent. Thanks, Jim
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