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Everything posted by vza

  1. Well, I found the 'glitter' in the IMS shaft (stuck to a magnet) then out of curiosity I ran the magnet through the drained engine oil and didn't get anything seemed strange to me....nothing in the filter either. Well I'm going to cross my fingers and proceed. Installing an RMS and I've read both to install completely dry or use Curil T on the outside diameter....which is it? Thanks V
  2. Well ....technically....what about in reality??(reference to your quote) Well that's a drag...I sort of knew that going into it.....picked the car up on the cheap.
  3. What about the glitter and compromised bearing....LN engineering says STOP DO NOT PROCEED....other blogs and sites(pelican) don't seemed to be to concerned ….they actually tell you to remove metal debris from the IMS shaft if there is any....lots of different views goin around....very confusing. I kind of thought I was in good shape...no metal in my oil filter at all...3 small flakes in bottom of filter housing and as mentioned fine glitter in the shaft. Ugh
  4. Well that's alarming ….only hand tightened them and they were loose after the bearing came out, I've read the IMS has a little play and can move forward into the oil pump I wound up snugging them up but only finger tight using a socket between thumb and forefinger...and installed the LN cam lock and marked the cams. I mean I doubt I disturbed a pressed fitting by having these hand tight,.... Correct?
  5. I used the easy out tool....just snake it behind the Bearing and screw the threaded bolt on and proceed with the included puller. Worked great....good amount of force to get it to pop. Bearing was in fact compromised, the rubber seal was torn allowing engine oil to get into the bearing and wash out the 'permenant ' grease. Some metallic 'glitter' cleaned out of shaft....hope it hasn't done too much damage!!! Any thoughts??
  6. Well I got the Ims tool kit from LN engineering and the cam lock dropped right in for bank 1 which leads me to believe the P253cam tool is off I couldn't get it in bank 2 but didn't spend that much time with it. I went ahead and marked the other 3 cams and inserted 2 set screws in place of the the Ims cover bolts as per Pelican instructions. Went ahead to remove the bearing and of course the center stud for the bearing snapped. I rented a pilot bearing puller but would have to fashion a 2'' pipe to use it with. However I didn't realize the tool kit comes with an 'easyout' sort of an oval nut w
  7. Yeah ...I saw that I'm just wondering if in fact its the tool....seems like it would be considering both banks are out at the same place. V
  8. Well... I got my tool the other day and am having similar problems. It won't drop in when crank is locked TDC....I manage to get it in a few degrees after TDC and the bolt holes don't line up to bolt it to the side of the engine case as intended. The interesting thing is this is duplicated on the other bank as well. Now some will say well....your out of timing....BUT what are the chances both banks are out at the same exact place(few degrees after TDC) and why doesn't the bolt holes line up? I can only assume the tool was machined incorrectly. BTW nothing was done to the engine yet to facilita
  9. 99 Boxster Base Yeah ...don't know whats up with the FW lock, it 's for a 99 boxster base...bolt did not thread easily. Yes, I wanted to check the cam timing with the P253 and was also going to use to hold the cams...Pelican said it was fine.??. Worked on it some today...I was able to get it to click in both cams after much jockeying around. But still was not able to bolt it to the case ....holes didn't line up. Went over to bank 1 and was able to hold with my left hand while turning the crank and felt it click in at the same spot bank 2 did.....and...was not able to bolt bank 1 either. Now th
  10. Well the flywheel lock didn't seem to fit correctly. When inserted into the FW teeth the bolt sort of began to bind in the case so I did not force it. I only grabbed maybe 1 thread and proceeded with a impact wrench....all was good....FW came off and the case bolt hole was unaffected. BUT....getting the FW back on and torquing it down maybe another issue. Any tips on how to get the tool on to allow the bolt to be tighten up without any binding or chance of cross threading the hole? I tried to jockey the FW around so it would line up but couldn't do it. While I'm having my run of bad luck with
  11. Reading about thread lube....is it the same as anti-seizing? ....wasn't mentioned in Bentley or Porsche 101...
  12. Hey Thanks ....Dealership matched the online price....$$$ big help$$$
  13. Wow....Dealer was my 1st choice but figured they wouldn't have it. Thanks for the info...appreciated. V
  14. I'm having a hard time finding the tool. Is there any risk in using a metal strap as a flywheel lock....everyone seems to be doing it. Would it be ok to use an impact wrench on the pressure plate and flywheel bolts? Thanks v
  15. Hi, Does anyone know if the 944 flywheel locking tool will work on a 99 boxster having a hard time locating the boxster tool. I know you can use a metal strap bolted to the bell housing but reading you can crack the the housing from over torquing. Engine is installed not on a stand. Thanks Vince
  16. Hi, I'm hearing different names for this tool, Pelican calls it a cam timing tool and the 9624 tool the holding tool. On a 99 Boxster I read the intake cam end is not slotted, if so does the diamond shape fitting on the tool fit into the intake cam to insure both cams are timed in relation to each other? Thanks V
  17. Ok thanks, I have the Bentley manual \ 101 projects...read a lot diy at pelican and thought I had it straight in my head. Can you point me in the direction to a serv manual, the Porsche manuals are more than half I paid for the car...The work I'm doing is the IMS, RMS and solenoid replacement on bank 2 and was inquiring about timing as to check that it wasn't lost after my work was complete. Thanks again for responding any additional input would be appreciated. Vin
  18. Hi All,99 Boxster. In removing Flywheel do I need to use a flywheel lock if I'm locking the crankshaft at TDC? And...to check the timing after cam cover removal and IMS job... if the crank is locked at TDC and I check the cams with the P253 timing tool the cams are timed with the crank as well because the crankshaft is at TDC...correct? Another words there isn't a procedure for checking the crank with the cams. Thanks V
  19. Thanks ...right the tool that locks the cams in place. But do I have to remove anything from the top side or is it all accessible from the bottom? Vin
  20. Thanks for exploded view. Still need to get bank 2 cover off for solenoid. Do I have to remove the intake and injectors or do I get all of it from the bottom? Thanks v
  21. Hi Loren, Bank 1 seemed to have fresh oil drip from bottom of cover. A lot of dark oil around perimeter of both covers. Thinking back there may have been oil around a few coil packs …so im not sure. Bank 2 has a bad solenoid that needs to be replaced anyway, CEL P1539. Measured resistance across solenoid at .5 olms and no click when applied voltage. 8 inch oil ring on garage floor. Seems like there's oil everywhere ...oil pan looks leaky as well. I thought it was RMS or IMS but didn't pull tranny yet. Kind of overwhelmed ...don't know what project to start first. Any suggestions? Thanks v
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