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I live in southern california so the top gets a lot of usage. I imagine it's wear and tear from being stretched out over and over again over the past four years. The top is up more than down, all things considered, but I do leave it parked with the top down overnight sometimes. Maurice, thanks, I'll have to spend some time and read that page. I gave it a glance last night though and it seems that the straps aren't quite the same on the 986. The one I'm talking about doesn't look like it could be replaced.
I'm hoping this is a common issue that has been around "forever" and someone has a solution. My 2005 987S is having the symptoms described in this thread. When the top is closed, the top doesn't close into the side channels properly. This happens primarily on the right side. This is happening because the "fold placer" as it has been designated, is all stretched out. Upon further examination, many of the straps on my top are stretched out. Not too surprising--the car was built in 2005 and has 59,000 miles. This thread has a picture of the exact strap that is causing me grief: It's the one labeled "3A". Tying the strap shorter will not work I suspect, as the elasticity is there for a reason--I expect it would just snap if I tied it, or something else would break. This strap, from what I can tell, is NOT REPLACEABLE. How the heck could they design a top with a strap like this bonded to it!? Elastic is of COURSE going to wear out! My dealership (Pioneer Porsche, San Diego) has informed me that there is no procedure for repairing this part. They say they might be able to fix it by replacing the strap, but it's not a standard procedure! Is there any DIY procedure for addressing this? I really don't want to have to buy a new top--the canvas and glass are fine.
Why not supply the link? I just looked and I don't see any 987 videos on bbexhaust.com. I just swapped out my exhaust for an AWE Tuning exhaust. I learned the following: 1. German cars are a pain in the *** to work on. 2. You will need U-joints and both deep/shallow sockets. 3. 50,000 miles adds up to a lot of corrosion on even a southern california car. 4. Liquid Wrench is your friend. 5. If you snap a stud on your pre-cat, you CAN press it out and replace it with a bolt. *sigh* :(
I saw a bulletin somewhere else that showed the new intervals. They're different depending on region. Mexico has a recommended service interval of like 7500 I believe, whereas North America is at 10,000 or 12,000. I talked to my dealership about this asking what the deal was--seems kind of shady that they wouldn't back-date those recommendations for older 987s...
Yeah, I was just wondering if they were perhaps stretch-to-torque or what not, like head studs usually are. The threads are clean on the bolts, no problem. Thanks for the input.
I agree. But then you also agree that there should be no need to go buy new bolts, right? I'll ask my service guy next time I'm at the shop just for piece of mind, but I'll locktite them in the meantime.
Thanks for the write-up, this, combined with the factory manuals, allowed me to install my red belts today. You forgot two crucial steps though: When reinstalling panels: Be sure to do what I did and break off the inside tab when you try to get them to clip back onto the body. It's not a "job done right" unless you get to curse and moan at yourself. Especially twice. If someone can tell me how to get those panels back on without breaking off those tabs...well, I guess it's too late for me. :P After you've put everything all back together again and reconnected the battery: Be sure to do what I did and freak out when you turn on the car and get "PSM FAILURE" and "PASM FAILURE" on the display. Certainly, don't go drive the car around the block and have the computer reset/recalibrate/whatever it does--that'd be way too calm and lord knows, we all want to be able to say that installing seat belts by yourself instead of taking them to the dealership is enough to cause massive system failure! One other thing--the factory manuals state that you shouldn't reuse the bolts. I thought that was preposterous--there's no way these bolts are stretch-to-torque. They tell you not to use any kind of lubrication or substance on the bolts. So I took a closer look and realized that the bolts must come coated with a lock-tite paste. This was further affirmed by the fact that I had to chase the threads a bit on the bolt holes before the bolts would go in properly. So, a question--Should I buy the Almighty New Porsche Bolts to replace the perfectly-fine ones, or should I use blue lock-tite as it seems the factory did? Or should I not worry about them backing out even though I didn't coat them? Questions, questions...
Hi all, I'm sorry to start a duplicate topic, but since I'm the last one to reply to the other topic, I feared that any further response in that thread would be missed. Of course, my question is still the same as the one I last posted in that other thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12854 I still can't remove the panel that jinijazz marked in red in that thread. Anyone have any insights into how to do this? I'd appreciate any help!
First off, I'm surprised that they actually opened up the transmission (you're in the US, I'm assuming). Porsche WAS telling all dealers to ship back all trannies to Germany before. Most dealers didn't have the capability to repair the transmission, was what I was told. Maybe they've changed that. If they only changed the shift forks I wouldn't expect any notchiness. if they chanegd any of the gearsets i'd expect things to not feel the same for a while. Nevertheless, I'd say you should take it back to the dealership and let them tell you if you're nuts. If they do say you're nuts, get a second opinion, preferably not from your significant other. :)
That wasn't "educating" that was "ranting condescendingly". Toejam, the simple matter of fact is that basic power adders only work on cars that have been hamstrung in some fashion. You take your average car and realize that power wasn't the ultimate goal--comfort, safety, noise levels and emissions requirements were. Yeah, there's some power to be gained in a car like that. A porsche, not so much--it's already been fairly tweaked from the factory to get as much as reasonable within the parameters of longevity, safety and law. That said, if you want more power out of the car, you can add an exhaust system and remap the ECU, sure. The car won't be smog-legal in all countries/states, but you won't be due for a smog check for quite some time so that probably isn't an issue for you. The engine won't last as long either and the parts may fail prematurely, but that's the risk you take. You want it to be quiet though (well, in as much as one would say a stock Porsche is "quiet")--ahhh there's a problem. You can't leave the stock exhaust on the end and expect any gains. You need to widen the whole pipe. Most people would start from the back and work their way up towards the engine when widening things up, not the other way around as you're questioning. In the end, the money spent probably isn't worth the gains. If you really want more power out of the Boxster S, you should probably start considering a turbo/supercharger/engine swap. Bring lots of cash. Personally, I'd say just enjoy the car as it is. It's already very balanced and adding more power's just going to upset that and put you on a downward spiral into modification. I've been down that road before and mehhhh... I'm over it. The Boxster S has plenty of power to keep me happy. Take the money you'd have spent on modding the Boxster and go buy a 993 of some sort. :)
eslai replied to jinijazz's topic in DIY Articles - Boxster/Cayman (987-1) - AccessoriesActually, I'd love to know how you guys got that first plastic piece off. I keep pulling and prying but I can't get it to pop off.
Heh, on other forums I visit people are still deriding Porsche for not having fixed this problem. I got lambasted for saying that I was glad things were better with the 987--people were telling me I was kidding myself, etc. being all nasty. I hope things go well for the 997 and 987 and that RMS is in the past. Personally I'm not worried about it--if it happens, so be it. I'm not going to lose sleep over it. 29,300 miles, no RMS. Built in April or May, 05. Oh and FYI, my car was eating oil pretty well up to about 10,000 miles. It seems to be normal behavior.