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About LJPete

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  • Present cars
    99 C2 Aero
    04 Grand Cherokee
  1. The brown wires if I recall where the negative. Look on the other row and you will find a pin that doesn't line up with one in the seat. I moved that one and everything worked afterwards. Hope this helps,
  2. No. Unfortunately, there is no link as you will know if your seat doesn't work when you first try it out after installation. If that happens the power wire is just in the wrong pin position in your harness. All you have to do is remove the pin and move it to the location where the power wire is on the seat side of the harness. There is a special tool that makes this very easy. Don't forget to remove the pin lock (a small plastic retainer that prevents the pins from backing out) before you try to remove the pin. What year is your car? What year car did the seats come from?
  3. It should be plug and play. Depending on the year of the seats and your model year, you may have to move a pin or two to a different hole in your harness. No, the Memory function will not work after you swap seats if the (if there is no memory module under he sport seat. I lost mine when I swapped sport seats in to my MY 99 from an 04 GT3. There is a DIY on this sight that is very helpful.
  4. My first 996 had the 3rd radiator and it would reach more or less the same temp as my 996 with 2 radiators (maybe slightly higher). With that said, it would cool much quicker once I started rolling or when the fans kicked in. It was kind of nerve racking at first seeing the temp needle move to the middle of the 0 in 180 and then the fans would kick in and the needle would head back to vertical quite quickly. With that said, my 996 with the 3rd radiator, the 2 main radiators where pretty dirty and where in need of a cleaning so temps might have been a bit better if they where cleaner. My bone stock 996 now, rarely gets the needle up to the middle part of the zero in the 180 degree marking on the gauge. I suspect that this is due to the clean radiators it has when I bought it.
  5. I did this mod last spring. Easy mod. All 996 wheels are interchangeable. If I recall, there is a DIY on this site that details the procedure. Follow it and you won't have a problem. My only other words of advice are be careful with the clock spring tabs that slide into the wheel as they are pretty delicate and make sure you unplug all the ground straps to the wheel. I mistakenly pulled on of the crimp connectors off. Had to fix that which delayed me 10 more minutes. All in all, it should only take 30 mins to an hour depending on how slow or fast your work. Hope this helps,
  6. Wow, That's a really nice looking box. I think that would do the trick. Why did you select a single sub over a dual 8 inch setup? What is the advantage? I have been looking for a sub solution and this maybe right up my alley, Thanks in advance,
  7. Bmohr, I'm sorry to hear about your situation but I thought I'd chime in and let you know that you have some decent options as of late as you are not just stuck with getting a factory re-man motor. Jake Raby's group and L & N engineering have been working together to put together a promising solution to all of the M96's short comings. I would suggest you contact them to discuss options. They also have options for putting in larger displacement motors so this maybe a hidden positive as you could end up with more power from your car. Also, Roock does engine swaps and conversions so if you have a 3.4L you have some options there as well. There is a guy local to the DC area that worked with them and had a positive experience with them. He's on this board and did chronicle his experience. His name escapes me but if you run a search you'll probably find him. IIRC it's Paul996? Hope this provides a foundation to getting your car back on the road, Pete
  8. The GT3 motor is different than the standard 996 motor and doesn't have dry sump or external reservoir (GT3 has a derivative of the 964 block where we have m96). Follow the DIY at the beginning of this thread and you should be fine.
  9. Congrats on the 3.6. Keep us updated on your swap progress and any issues you encounter. Are you using Rook or some other service to do the swap and programming?
  10. I just did an oil change and noticed some of that stuff in my oil fill tube. Not bad but a bit. Odd thing is when I drive my 996, I drive it for 30 mins +. I did note that it's only recently that this stuff shown up, didn't happen in the summer months with the same driving patterns. I'm wondering if I should be concerned?
  11. I have a Fabspeed and it does make some very light droning at low RPMs (under load) but it's gone by 2600 RPM. By my standards it's one of the most livable exhausts. As the exhaust is braking in the drone is getting less and less but that could be me getting more used to it.
  12. Performed my first oil change on my MY99. Everything went well with no issues. Just wanted to thank you Loren for this fantastic resource.
  13. According to the trip computer I get 23.7 mixed city/highway. Pure highway I can get 28-29.
  14. I'll try to help out a bit. 1) for the most part the 996 is a very reliable car. That being said, the engines do have some weak spots and there is potential for issues. Those issues are the rear mains seal leaking, which is not a big deal, just have it replaced when you get your clutch changed. On the deeper end of the scale the IMS (Intermediate Main shaft) can fail which results in a catastrophic failure of the motor and finally, on the earlier MK I cars they have some cylinder wall issues that can fail. The occurrences of these issues is a closely guarded secret by Porsche AG and no one really knows how often these things pop up. Don't be deterred from a car with a motor replacement as these cars tend to have new motors from Porsche with the latest update parts in them. I wouldn't walk away from a car with an original motor but having a fresh one is a nice plus in my book. For the most part, it seems that engine failure is a minority of the cars but it does happen so you may want to educate yourself to what your alternatives if it happens. Thankfully, there are now new options for sourcing rebuilt (arguably stronger) motors than ordering a replacement from Porsche but this information is just hitting the forums now. There is much anecdotal information that says a car that's driven tends to have less issues. 2) Working on the 996 is not any more difficult than another car. The only caveat is that much of the motor is not assessable by the rear deck lid but from the underside of the car. 3) Differences in the C4 and C2 aside from the obvious 4wd is the weight difference between the 2 cars and balance. The C4 is a bit heavier and will push more at the limit. The C2 feels lighter and more nimble and is easier to drive with the throttle. 3b) X51 adds a new intake manifold, heads, headers (IIRC) and upgraded oiling system. It's rather an expensive option but I can't speak to the value of it as I've never driven a car with X51. The standard 996 motor offers quite a bit of power already. 3c) You can add on some bolt-ons that will provide an increased performance but will it equal the X51? Probably not but the X51 was around a 10k option IIRC. I'm more in a position to recommend learning how to drive the 996 as it is a challenging car where the BMW is a very forgiving car. The 996 requires finesse and sensitivity to drive it effectively. Your money is better spend in driving schools if you want to go fast. The MK I engines seem to respond better to bolt-ons but you can add more performance (straight-line) with an intake, plenum and exhaust. That will make your car a bit more punchy and slightly quicker. Again, is it worth the money? debatable. I'd go for suspension and schools before adding other items. 3d) The X51 is pretty much maxed and I haven't read of anyone extracting more NA power out of them but I could be wrong on this. Of course there are supercharger options for both motors but those are quite pricey as well. At that point, you might as well go for the turbo. For background information, I picked a 99 996 MK I even with the higher risk associated with the 3.4 because of the following reasons. MK I Aero kits to me are the best looking of the 996 narrow body (subjective), they tend to be the lightest cars of the bunch and finally, they were offered with a LSD and defeat able traction control vs the PSM that was offered on later cars. These cannot be turned off and will try to fix you if you in the most in opportune times (when you are trying to rotate the car). LSD was only offered in the 99 and the 04 40th anniversary edition cars. I came from an E36 BMW and have driven virtually all generations of the 3 series including M3's in autocross so I have a penchant/passion for BMWs as well. The 911 is a whole different ball game entirely in terms of experience and driving dynamics of a rear engine car. Hope this helps, Pete
  15. I thought I'd post a quick follow up. I found a solution to the seat wiring issue by confirm hot wires and borrowing a re-pinning kit from a friend who works at a local dealership. We where able to pull the pin out without damaging the pins and re-insert them in the correct open hole in the plug. Everything works fine now.
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