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Hi guys. Just thought I’d provide a further update with this issue in case you haven’t solved it. I ended up replacing the driver’s side tuning fork on mine with the upgraded EPS version. At first, this did not seem to solve the issue as it still kept knocking at slow speed after warming up. This only lasted for about 100km though and has been quiet since now for a few months. I’m still baffled by the problem as you would think that the replacement would immediately solve it if that part is the problem but it didn’t do this in my case. I’ll update this again if anything changes, but it’s quiet for the time being, touch wood! cheers, Terry
Hi guys. I know that this thread is somewhat dated, but does anyone know if the amp pins for the rear speakers are always active for this Becker 6600 amp? My car only has the dash and door speakers and I am trying to figure out how to get the audio out to rear speakers so that I can fit them. I have the CDR-23 radio and it has no active analogue audio outputs. I’m hoping the rear speaker pins on the amp are already active and it’s just a case of finding somewhere to buy the pins to put into the amp connector. Also, thanks Loren for posting this diagram here. I have scoured the internet for months trying to find this! Thanks, Terry
I also forgot to ask - does anyone know how to enable the analogue audio out directly from the brown plug on the CDR-23? Mine has the audio going out via the MOST bus and I’d like to use the analogue out instead but it appears to be disabled. Thanks
Thanks for that information guys, but does anyone actually know what those 4 wires do?...... Yellow - CAN Comfort High Black - CAN Comfort Low White/Red - Wake up/Diagnosis Line Green - Key Code In i.e. what is CAN comfort, what is the wake up for and what is the key code in for? I can’t find any explanation of these anywhere. Thanks in advance, Cheers, Terry
Hi guys. Thanks for all your information posted here, it’s been very helpful. I am trying to work out how I might install a pair of rear speakers on my 2002 986 that has a CDR-23 with MOST bus and the yellow C1 connector on it only has 4 pins with wires that are black, yellow, green and white with a red stripe. From the diagram you posted Sanjeev, it appears that these are titled ‘CAN comfort high’ and ‘CAN comfort low’, ‘wake up diagnosis’ and ‘key code in’ but I can’t find any reference as to what this means, do you know? I presume that all the audio is getting to the amp in the trunk via the MOST bus as I don’t have an audio out connector on the radio but I also can’t tell which amp pins are doing the audio out from the trunk as my manual doesn’t seem to cover the 2002 wiring diagrams. Would appreciate any advice if you have the opportunity please.
Both keys should work manually in the driver’s door lock, unless they don’t match the ignition barrel. Do both keys work in the ignition? It is possible that a new ignition barrel or assembly was fitted previously without changing the door lock as well. Do you have the owner’s manual?
Hi V. Not sure exactly what you are asking here, but I installed the shifter last week and the plastic shift housing definitely had notches that align with the aluminium bushes. They are not easy to see, but you can feel them when you run your finger around the inside of the circular housing where the new bushes go. I suspect if one of yours was tight to fit then you may have inadvertently force fitted it incorrectly. If it is slightly twisted in the housing then it might prevent the shifter springing back to neutral. You also need to back off the set screws before installing otherwise you can end up with an overly tight fit. Hope this helps.
The Pelican Parts website has some good technical articles and this one is included. I found it helpful to loosen the 3 bolts that go up into the chassis at the front end of the control arm and use a hydraulic jack to raise and lower the main control arm (sometimes called the coffin arm) as this allows you to align the bolts better.
On mine, I had to turn the key to the ignition on position first, before inserting a large paper clip down the hole in the barrel. It also helps if the paper clip is a very straight one otherwise it jams in the hole or doesn’t go all the way in. The end of the pin or paper clip also needs to be rounded off with a nail file, rather than having a square or flat end on it. That way it will slip into the locking paul groove easier to release it. As discussed above, Pelican Parts have some very good info on this at: Porsche Boxster Ignition Switch Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM The ignition switches on these cars is very prone to failure. Porsche redesigned the part and everyone will probably eventually have to upgrade...
Hi guys. Have any of you had any success with finding the source of this issue? I have the same problem with the knocking noise in the front driver’s side but only once the car warms up, not when you first start driving. I’ve had two suspension specialists look at this and neither could work it out. I changed the sway bar drop link with no success and I ordered and fitted a new control arm (aka tuning fork) from European Parts Solutions but that didn’t work either. I’m loathe to continue trying to fix by replacement as it’s expensive. It also makes no sense to be a bushing or control arm as one would think that it would be apparent all the time, not just when warmed up, so I am wondering if the issue is in the strut itself that starts knocking after it warms up??