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rsfeller

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Everything posted by rsfeller

  1. rsfeller
    ...are you doing it because you can or do you have a theory for doing it? I agree the clutch is cheaper then the tranny...just because you can do it doesn't mean you should!
  2. rsfeller
    I too have seen many solenoid failures on Vw's but I believe the bendix is what we are discussing here that makes that crazy sound. I don't think I experienced the odd sound with solenoid failure other then the starter run on from lack of engagement.
  3. rsfeller
    My bet is on the failed Bendix for the odd sound! JUNIINC, does your failure item perstain to the "run on sound" too?
  4. rsfeller
    This is a common issue with our cars (and many Vw I have had too including a eurovan and GTI 1.8T) and most learn to live with it. I do not believe the starter is running long but that the gear engagement system is not releasing as quick due to old grease or a worn part. Someone can clarify me on the terms used to describe the internal workings of a starter, I'm rather rusty since my last change of a starter. Just live with it unless you got money to spend. Mind has been doing it for two years w/o any noticeable different in starting capabilities. It does it more when the car sits in the garage but when I'm driving daily it only does it first start of the day. That is why I lean toward the lubricant/grease theory. If I get the car on a lift again this summer I may pull it out and inspect the system for signs for cause and/or failure. This is my opinion of the so called "sick elephant" noise.
  5. rsfeller
    Scott, Yes there are drain holes in that area for water to drain from around the convertible top down. Additionally others have had issues with water draining into their floor pan and shorting out their alarm system components which would harm starting the car. I am not sure if there are any points such collected water could drain there but do check for dampness under your seats on the and below the car to be extra cautions. You know own a used Porsche, buy the Bentley manual so you are familar with your car and you can save yourself a world of worry and expense if you have any DIY skills. If you feel your drain situation from rain is not the answer due to an extended period of dry weather you need to confirm if it's water or not. Taste it! Shawn
  6. rsfeller
    ha! That is interesting. I knew I wasn't clear on my comment/question! Although I understand the code stays in the system until you clear it can the counter still advance w/o clearing or will it stay at the current value until then? For example if I've had the #33 with DTC value of 3, does that tell me the system has been reset at least 3 times now or is it posible it has never been reset but the system still has detected that value 3 times? More confusing?
  7. rsfeller
    Thanks Loren, That does help my though process then. For some reason I figured my errors were present every time I read the codes. You commented a couple summers ago for me on two codes, the common (33) with the interior alarm sensor and also the (41) no engine start possible with faulty key pill. Since durametric doesn't have the ability to reset alarm codes I still have a question then. Since I cannot clear them are the able to "advance" another count? Since it is currently at only a value of 1 cannot I not get to 2 until I have done a reset? or will the system keep counting every time the error is seen on upon ignition? thus a persistent problem has dozens or hundreds of counts until the issue is remedied? You may have experience from you car (or a friends) and you PST 2. Do you ever see a crazy value other then 1 or 2? I'm hoping my no-start/pill comment was a one time issue that was remedied prior to my ownership as it still have only a value of 1 in the two years I've had the car.
  8. rsfeller
    I already have but do not expect to get a response from them until Monday, so I was hoping for a knowledgeable response from list members or someone like Loren with a PST 2, I'm quite sure it has the same values.
  9. rsfeller
    After having this software for some time and my alarm error codes I've noted that several codes have advanced from 1 to 2 or 2 to 3 over the last couple of years. Can anyone explain what this value means? Is this times the error has triggered since last reset (years in my case)? Or is this how many times it triggers an error during the read process?
  10. rsfeller
    I run an older version of Durametric (3.x.x) and cannot clear these either. Maybe some else can elaborate on if alarm codes can be cleared or the item simply must be fixed first. Anyways, I'll pulled my Durametric screenshots as I have the same (33) as you. I believe Lauren speculated some time ago that this is the infered sensors (rear view mirror) for motion control failing and it's fairly common. FYI that my system (alarm) still works fine (doors and trucks) with no error beep. I believe I tried to trigger the motion last summer (testing) and could not to support the theory. I do not know of the other two codes, I'm sure Loren can shed some light. That issue about the local sounds as if there is a mechanical issue with the lock or the sensor is thinking there is a mechanical failure and thus telling the system the lock cannot work. Maybe the error codes tells of the location but I would check the trunks (and glove box if you have one) if the doors seem to be operating as expected. Note my interesting pill failure code, sounds scary but car starts fine!
  11. rsfeller
    Glad to read you got your new toy! this screen shot will answer your one question, looks like I'll want to find a PST 2, now I have a reason to joing PCA and bump into some people at Mid Ohio! I'm going to go to my car and pull codes again as I have the #33 too.
  12. rsfeller
    Hate to tell you but I would bet money you are wrong. I feel it is impossible for foam from the filter to get through the system as it would not be able to pass through the evaporator unless it was extremely small pieces. Most have speculated this over the years but once you look into the air system you'll see the evap would act as a screen and catch any such debris from the filter before it could get out your events. Read my write up here on another project that proved to me where the foam REALLY comes from. http://www.carboncow.net/index.php?option=...6&Itemid=51
  13. rsfeller
    I do recall some of your cooling discussion but what was the primary issue again. Slow warm up? I know it flux'd some but nothing to be concerned about. Change that thermostat as we discussed. Otherwise the will most likly be no error codes or help to tell you about the cooling system. Now it will give you "real time" values of different coolant sensors on the system, assuming they are working correctly.
  14. rsfeller
    I didn't read your post correct, I see it was the "auto down" feature and not the "auto drop" when you open/close the door. If the problem comes back you may have a ground issue. As far as the durametric run a search on the site and/or google. All you need to know is out there. I don't want to sound short but there is much written here. Durametric is the software (free) but you buy the cable ($200+) to go from USB to the Porsche port. It can run on any laptop or desktop but I found a it runs best for live values on Pentium 4 machines or P3 with LOTS of memory. Otherwise you will love it for simple codes and CEL resets. The guys who run created respond very well and at my request got the HVAC portion working so I could see realtime values of the motor/servos of the AAC system while troubleshooting a lack of heat. Good guys, good product... Even if you don't have a laptop I slapped it on a $100 P3 I had around my office until I got my new laptop for home. I put the software on three computers in my world and simply carry the cable in the car so regardless if I'm at home, work or my summer place I can pull the codes, if needed. You'll wnat it some day when you 02, MAF, belt buckles (SRS) and such start rearing their ugly heads. These are all DIY items for someone such as yourself and you will love the fact you spent the money on the software and can get the parts need cheap from the site sponser(s) all for the cost of talking to the guy at the Porsche Dealer desk!
  15. rsfeller
    Interesting that I never saw your 2nd post (cancel it was the wheel) until just now! What were you specifically doing to your car from your original post that required the battery disconnect? It sounds like a ground or such may have been disrupted to cause issues with the alarm and now the window drop feature. First, have we established the drop issue is in fact with both windows, or just one? Are you still having the alarm issue? Everything is good with starting the car now? My personally opinion is that anyone who can own a somewhat expensive (and mildly exotic) car such a Porsche should have two things sitting on the bench if they are planning to DIY anything on the car. One is the Bentley manual and the other is the Duratmetric software. The 2nd will pay for itself after one trip to the P-dealer to have a simple CEL reset. Plus it can tell you many specific things that are bound to surface on your Boxster. Just spend the money and get it if you need to save money and know enough to take the connection off the battery! It is posible to have error codes related to your alarm w/o a CEL light. So there is most likely codes in there. Others can correct me but I doubt there are any codes related to window failure. It's a pretty low tech system in there. The window drop is controlled by a microswitch in the door handle. Did you do any work to disrupt the switch(es)?
  16. rsfeller
    Are you sure it's just not a coincidence and you have a bad (common) switch tumbler? Additionally, my would not turn either even after swapping the tumbler. It seems to me the design flaw in the steering lock is very sensitive. Even w/o the steering wheel turned I often have to turn the wheel and find the sweep spot (sometimes) to get the ignition to turn. My wife called one day and could not get the car started. I drove and hour to help her and when I got their I made the discover that slightly turning the wheel (steering) one way or another found the spot to allow the unlocking. As far as the beep, I do believe one beep does warn of an alarm failure. You'll have to review the owners manual or Bentley to confirm. Mine also does this from time to time and I have not been able to figure out the cause. Hasn't done it in 6 months but all last summer it was picky when engaging. Durametric pulled error codes related to the inferred sensors which I believe Lauren said was common. Not sure if this causes my issues or not. Regarldless my point is sometimes things are truely unrelated to the activy you just preformed and you car has other common issues with ignition tumblers and/or steering wheel interlocks.
  17. rsfeller
    Just some thoughts. I know you stated there were no codes but should not the P dealer be able to "know" if a DME is good or not? With that being said... If not then they should have one available or sitting on the shelf to test this theory. I would refuse to pay a dealer for an expensive piece of equipment if they cannot guarantee that is the issue. Another dealer in the area may provide a "test" DME to solve your question. Somewhere there is one floating around for testing needs. If that is not an option a junk yard is your next choice. Check EBAY for a Porsche recyclers in Oklahoma as well as Cali. the DME is most likly a third as new. Don't buy anything unless they can backup the theory, they have the skill and technology and this should not be that difficult for a dealer!
  18. rsfeller
    Personally I think these types of quest would only drive you nuts. I tried this a couple years back with a Vanagon and wasted to much time and money trying to level out the cooling system. Yes the themostat could be to blame (and is and easy swap) as it could be a non-spec model (different open temp), but it could be the sensitivity of you sender, gauge electronics and the fact you have an automatic. I'm guessing those of us stating 24/7 where 5 speeds, but I could be wrong. If you are between 180-190F count you blessing and leave sleeping dogs lie! You inquired about warm up times, do you feel yours takes to long? if so I would swap the thermostat especially if you don't know the maintenance history of the car.
  19. rsfeller
    Mine points 12 o'clock 24/7 no matter what the temp, where I drive or if the A/C system is involved. This is approx. 190F as mine is to the right of 180F like your photo. This is with a one year old thermostat (factory spec) and I am up to operating temperature in a bout 5-7 minutes of city driving at current spring temps. I would expect auto-boxes to take a minute or two longer to warm as I am sure they are cooling the transmission too.
  20. rsfeller
    let sleeping dogs lie...
  21. rsfeller
    That is a good price!
  22. rsfeller
    Did they check out your RMS too while there?
  23. rsfeller
    You put in a new transmission as precautionary!?!?!?! do you mean clutch?
  24. rsfeller
    We'll if you are convinced the tires are flawless and there is no rim damage then yes you may have some loose front end components/bushings or something bent. You best bet in a populated area is to find a Porsche independent shop if nobody will touch your car. There are some things items that are the same on all cars and suspension tends to be one of those things to shops that specialize in such work. I live between a large market (Columbus) and some hick towns and in those hick towns are shops that have been working on cars and trucks for years that have no issues looking at my Vw Vanagon Syncro, Saabs or Porsche. Sometimes it does take work to find them. If you cannot do such work yourself you need to find an Indy shop. Bug the list with a new post and on other boards if necessary for your area to get a good recommendation.
  25. rsfeller
    You should always look at your tires first when you have steering shake, you do not make any mention of their condition and a confirmed visual inspection of all tires. Additionally, a alignment can be done for $100+ by a quality suspension shop (not a BP procare!). So tell us about your tires and/or rims first and when can start looking suspension components.
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