rsfeller

I mentioned this about a month ago but since then I've got to drive the car some. Hopefully I can get some constructive ideas other then a "squirrel in my linkage"! My daily driver and back up car are both in the shop, so the 986 had to come out of winter storage. I noted that the left or right travel of the stick shift is very "thick" and slow, but doesn't have a mechanical binding feel. Travel through the gears from 1-2-3-4-5-R feels fine and smooth. If you put the car in netural and push left or right it doesn't return to center! After being in the heated carage (55F) all weekend and driving to work in 40F weather it feels slightly better but still stickes some. What is most likely the cause of this and fix. I'm guessing something needs greased badly. 1997 986 77K miles. Shawn

We'll I suggest you do! They are very approachable guys and make changes to the code on the fly by request, I know from experience! Shawn

You two need to stop with the animals! That is something I do NOT want to consider...

I'm sure I'm OEM as we are at 70K on a 1997 and the previous owner would have never done such an item. I've had it a year and gear oil wasn't on my todo list any time soon! We have warm weather here today and a light rain. I'll take it out today for a spin and natural shower to get the dust off it. We'll see if it loosens up. Nothing seems binding.

I would not say well, as I decided to not take it for a run until I did some research. I've drive many stick cars over the year and never felt a "thick" stick like this before. I've had a few vanagons (also transaxle units) that felt slightly thick but nothing like this.

The 1997 986 has been in our new "extra" cold storage garage for about a month in 30F Ohio. Just went out to check on the battery condition and get something out of the garage. Figured I take it for a spin and get it up to temp. The stick was so "thick" and hard to move I was put back with my attempt to take it out. If I pushed the shifter left (1&2) or right of center (5 & R) the shifter would even hold in those positions. It was like the gear shift was moving in thick molasseses. For a minute if felt like it was loosening up but then I determined it was still thick. I would not call this a mechanic feel or force. Does this sound right for a 20-30F car that has been sitting for a month? It was in heated storage the last two winters, so this is rather concerning. Thoughts? Shawn Ohio

Sounds like a simple starter solenoid not engaging. I would only let a guy at an local station admire my car. If he can tell you how to get at it before letting him look, then you can trust him. Otherwise find a import specialist. They won't be that much more...

Looking at numbers on a datasheet can be some what inaccurate if the difference between products is just splitting hairs. Saying a product is #10 doesn't mean much if number #10 is still quite. I'm going to stick with my answer of they are just fine and quite tires with the top down and highway speeds. I know what noisy tires are! I have some all season, snow and LT on my vehicles right now and the Kumos sound like a baby sleeping to me!

Love my Kumos. Kumos = quite for daily driving and weekend sporty driving. Wear is fine too!

$70!!! I've been using quality ones available from NAPA and other generic car suppliers. I've bought 1/2 amp units for my boats and cars for years that have adapters for permanent mount through the battery, alligator clips or a cig lighter option and they were only $29-$39. Been using them for a decade on two boats, 3 jet skis, a car and a tractor. Not a problem once...

Seems to me if you here something clicking the electrical is in fact good, so what caused the failure and why is the module newer? I would find the part number on the actuators and order them from Sunset if you are warm and fuzzy about the indie diagnosis. This will be the way better solution then the generic ebay listing you had. I've seen people try to put in the generic window regulators before and I was unimpressed. I'm sure the generic door actuators are not far behind. find your part number and price them, both tools for that need are on the this website...start with the quick menu.

No way something this generic is going to be a solution w/o some modification in my oppinion. At that point you might as well bite the bullet and do it right. Door "stuff" is easy DIY for anyone with moderate skills. Buying the parts online would be the best way to go assuming yo have the right apart number from the failure and have confirmed the need. It would seem highly unlikely that both would fail simultaneously, unless there is something furthur up streaming causing the common failure. Did they fail at the same time or at different times? Maybe others can give specific ideas based on actual knowledge and not my general comments.

I find it hard to believe that if someone bought through their website they would not honor that price! Have you verified that? Would they really cancel in state orders? As nice as they have always been to me via email and phone I would be very surprised if they had such a policy for local web sales! Most indies cannot get the specifics, just the basics...they have to go through the dealer/stealer to for unique needs. For example, I got my hardtop hardware from them. Are you getting the hardware with your top? Many sellers online don't sell the hardware with it or are to clueless (mechanically inclined) to remove it! Shawn

Brakes don't get much easier then this car. Got my pads, rotors and sensor dirt cheap on ebay. If you don't know already the primary sponser for this site is Sunset Imports, see links at top. They are a Audi/Porsche dealer on the webcoast that sells parts heavily discounted online. Great service and quick shipping. Sounds like you got a few dollars to spend. Get that software I mentioned for a few hundred dollars. It will solve half your problems and put your questions (that are yet to come) at rest. It does a great job of replicating a Porsche tech2 and the guys who are developing it keep bringing more functionality on line. I pushed them hard for some HVAC system last summer and they got it going ASAP. Shawn Ohio

Welcome Boxster newbie! Might have to pick your brain this summer as I may want to pick up a 944 or 944T for a project. Now take that credit card and buy the Bentley Manual and the Durametric software...smartest two things you'll every do! Shawn Ohio

I have not been following this since the early posts but there is no question you can always test a window motor by applying 12v directly to it. always!

ha! That is to funny, the wife sent me that last night! It must have still be on the computer clipboard and not the engine URL! Search ebay, there was at least one 3.2L engine last night.

Westcoast engines... 1. http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Heath-Z...ck/76718/Cat/52 2. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-01-...sspagenameZWDVW 3. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00-01-PORSC...sspagenameZWD1V and here are the guys I see all the time on ebay: http://stores.ebay.com/Oklahoma-Foreign Shawn

Keep your eye on ebay. There is a large Porsche dismantler in Oklahoma that has engines all the time...

Congratulations on your new purchase. Now the 2nd purchase you should make is the Bentley manual. No owner should be without it unless they are the type to take EVERYTHING to the dealer... This is one of the two most useful sites on the web for Boxster owners and gets my vote for #1. If you get any good answers from this group you should donate to the site to get more functionality (such as access to TSBs) and keep the owner buying more bandwidth. The fuse panel is located by your left foot and this is clearly explained in the owners manual too. The manuals for model years are on this site if you didn't get one, just look around at the links at the top. Although you may ahve to donate to have access to that area. Others can verify if I'm telling the truth or not. Now if you are a DIY then you also need to cough up a couple hundred dollars and get the Durametric software that emulates many of the functions of the Porsche Tech2 device. This would include pulling codes, resetting codes and viewing more specific information that a standard ODB2 scanner will not provide. Google Durametric or this board for more information. The durmatric software will tell you if you have any error codes associated with your alarm system. Keyless entry is tied into (obviously) the security system and there is much that only the dealer can do there but there may be some commone issues at work. Have you replaced the battery, what do you mean "not working". Are the doors locking but no horn/alarm or lights? More info there for more specific comments from the group... Like all cars there will be about 10 very common failiure trends with your Porsche if you have the ability to google, check this site and wrench a little you will save a ton of dollars and have the satisfaction of knowing what is under the engine hatch of your car. Not everyone wants or choses to participate! Shawn Ohio

We'll in my case I have 12v batteries laying everyone from tractors, boats and my cars. So I simply grab some light weight jumpers and some gator clips and attach it to the wires on the motor. 12v one way is up 12v the other way is down. just be ready to stop the supply if needed as you have no fuse protection. Yes the relay can go bad on anything. My older Saabs are relay nightmares and when you pop them open you often see carbon build up on the contact or heat damage on the IC board solder joints from heavy power circuits like AC systems. 12v applied to the right pins on relay you will hear the click and circuit movement. Many relays have the map on them but simply trying to apply 12v to differnt pins will get you a response. Again I'm not familar with the Porsche window relay failing, I"m just tossing general troubleshooting for the average Joe before the experts give you better info!

So just to clarify: 1. No up or down when switch is engaged? 2. No auto drop or rise when door is opened (thus it's sticking on the channel when you open the door)? 3. If nothing is moving do you hear something inside clunking or a relay engaging? 4. When you put your test on the motor end of the wires and engage the switch in the console do you see 12v reading change or come on/off? You may have 12v to the circuit but if the switch (and/or relay) are not engaging that voltage you will get no movement. You need to check changes in voltage from the switching being applied at the motor. If not I would check your switch and connections. Lastly if you hear movement, clunking or relay engagement in the door something most likely is wrong with the cable system which is prone to fail, but these don't sound like the exact symptoms of that. Additionally, you can take your old motor and apply 12v directly to the connects to see if it moves one way and then another. I know this is 20/20 stuff but I never order a new motor w/o applying 12v direction to test it's integrity. My comments are not exact as I just tossing out ideas from general power window troubleshooting and my personal issues with the common cable and window drop problem. Shawn

Maybe I'm not understanding what part your broke but the pivot/latch clips are on there for on $10 plus shipping, but I guess price is relative to the buyer! I'm cheap and I think they are cheap. If I'm allowed to post another person ebay add here is the link to what I am talking about. SEE THIS LINK Shawn

Coming break. Check out ebay...they are on there dirt cheap. Grab and extra set, you'll need them. I'm sure they cannot be fixed in all cases. Mine required for me to lightly drill out the old post still in the pivot point. I take my out when I put my hard top on for the winter and I'm sure I'll do it again! Shawn

1. there are a couple thousand recyclers on ebay that would disagree 2. there are many people such as myself that are not wealthy and parting out cars from misfortune they can make a dollar back. 3. there are many people such as myself that need a great deal to help offset the cost of owning and expensive car. 4. i'm sure there are 1001 honest transactions for every stolen item, hardly a reason for the public to not buy or sell used items on ebay. 5. most of the people that own Porsches who need to replace parts buy new, the cycle is most likely not perpetuated as you state. The one who stole is headlights was most likely sent on a specific task for that item to replace another. Not an easy item to remove for a general thief and even knowing most theives are not the smartest in society I doubt many take the chance of posting FOR SALE an easily spotted item unless they are shipping from the other side of the country. Why is it once ebay became huge everyone feels it's a detriment to society? I still feel for savvy buyers it's a great asset to the internet and automotive community. Stupid comment for sure...flame on! Shawn Ohio