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fasterjames

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Everything posted by fasterjames

  1. Mine was bad enough to drip when the a/c was on. When I had it in for brakes, my Tech cleared out the drain tube that sits right in front of the dash. Haven't had a problem with it since.
  2. Went to an Independent. Paid $635 for a 60K service that included Oil and Filter Change, Poly Rib Belt Replacement, Cabin Filter Replacement, Air Filter Replacement, Wiper Replacement, Spark Plugs Replaced. Porsche of Orlando wanted $1,100 to do the same. The price was OK for me because unfortunately I just don't have the time to do maintenance anymore.
  3. In the owners manual it states this is nomal and the noise was built in by design.
  4. I came to this conclusion after researching it last fall when my Independent Porsche Technician didn't twist my cap on correctly and I lost 1 gallon of mix. I too recommend replacing it with 50/50 mix because of the special anti-corrosive properties in the Porsche coolant. Not to mention even filtered water might accelerate corrosion. Here is the wikopedia version: Distilled water is also commonly used to top up lead acid batteries used in cars and trucks. The presence of other ions commonly found in tap water will cause a drastic reduction in its lifespan. Distilled water is preferable to tap water for use in automotive cooling systems. The minerals and ions typically found in tap water can be corrosive to internal engine components, and can cause a more rapid depletion of the anti-corrosion additives found in most antifreeze formulations.
  5. Figures: my car just made a liar out of me. Just went to lunch and it happened in 1st as well. BTW, I have only used/burned 1/2 quart of 0-40 in 5K miles.
  6. I have searched heavily for this and haven't yet found an issue quite like what I am experiencing. About once every hundred miles or so when I am accelerating, there is a squeal or chirp that happens immediately after I let out the clutch. It's coming from the engine compartment most likely from the right side and only lasts about 1 second. It only happens when the engine is warm and has always been after up-shifting into 2nd. Never downshifting. It makes a sound like my kids make while skidding Hot Wheels around a corner. Also kind of like the sound tires make when locking the brakes. I have a 2002 2.7 Boxster with 5 speed manual and 63400 miles. Bone stock. Had a 60K service done last August at 57K and no oil leaks were found. Always been a Florida car. Other symptoms that I have that might/might not be contributing so in order to help you help me here they are: 1. About once every 3 months there are 1-3 nickel sized oil drops on the garage floor coming from the right side. I wipe them up and don't see them again for months. 2. When the engine/tranny are cold, I sometimes get a light shudder when taking off in first gear as described in some of the flywheel topics. I drive my Boxster respectfully and because of time (4 little kids and a new career) I haven't opened the engine compartment yet to look for any new leaks. Thanks in advance for your help! Renntech is awesome!
  7. Great thread! Thanks for having the guts to come out and say what most of us are thinking but wouldn't say! Kudos! I have the same experiences it seems most of you do too. It's rare to get a wave or a look back but I still often make the effort. Funny enough, the nicest person so far was a younger guy in a new 996 Cabriolet which is probably worth 4 times what my Boxster is. After riding street motorcycles for 15 years, I have seen the one hand wave go away as well. Used to be if you passed another motorcyclist you'd get a nod, wave, etc from almost everyone. Now, even in the same genre of bikes you only get the wave about 30% of the time. I guess that's why Renntech's Forum is so awesome, it's basically a big wave and a helpful conversation with hundreds of enthusiasts for the most dynamic vehicles made.
  8. This is probably not your pedal. Most likely you need to clean your Throttle Body. This is common on all vehicles where it gets gunked up. Typically it is determined by quality of fuel used, quality of air filter or frequency changed, climate, mileage, etc.
  9. my guess is an A/C compressor clutch or bearings.
  10. I have had good luck with Warranty Direct and National Republic on other vehicles.
  11. I'm not sure about how to do this but you may want to consider linking it to something else like the parking brake, etc instead. Having the load of headlights turned on while starting your car will wreak havoc on your battery and charging system. In addition, when your battery is just about dead and you are in the middle of nowhere with one last crank left, your lights will keep it from starting. No doubt it will happen at the worst time. If you aren't worried about the daytime running lights and only about leaving them on when you shut off your car, perhaps you could add a loud buzzer that will alert you when you leave them on or open the door. Just some ideas that may or may not help. Best of luck.
  12. My sentiments exactly, Valentine One is the way to go. You'll never regret it.
  13. My Independent told me it's a good idea to change the sensors anyway. My light did come on however so perhaps that's why.
  14. I drive my 02 Base in town about 75% of the time (unfortunately). I drive aggressively but do not abuse my car by any means. Even with tons of starts and stops in the Orlando area I average 18-19 mpg. I did have a complete 60K service done a few months ago but have not had my MAF cleaned yet.
  15. I drive my 02 Base in town about 75% of the time (unfortunately). I drive aggressively but do not abuse my car by any means. Even with tons of starts and stops in the Orlando area I average 18-19 mpg. I did have a complete 60K service done a few months ago but have not had my MAF cleaned yet.
  16. 986Jim is right on target. I am finding out that the maintenance performed by previous owners is worth much much more than the money that it might take to 'catch it up' to where it needs to be. It would be worth more to find one that has good records. Because the body hasn't changed too much since it's introduction (a common and great characteristic of German vehicles) it is perceived that it is still a newer and expensive model. So when people see the 97 Boxster with 150,000 miles many still equate it with the newer 987s. This is why it may be surprising to find a Boxster for 13-15K. This being said, I think it is a great tribute that 10 years later it still holds 25%+ of it's original value. Good luck in your purchasing.
  17. I have Warranty Direct for my wifes Honda Odyssey and they have been excellent to work with in the 3 times we've needed them. I wrote service at a few dealerships in the past and typically associate lots of frustration with any company. I would say that WD is one of the easiest I have worked with. Peace of mind is worth a lot but so is your cash in hand. Do you have maintenance records? If you have proof that it was well maintained you 'likely' won't need it. If you don't have records you may want to do a major service yourself and check for things like oil leaks, metal particles in the oil (you can look or even send to a lab for analysis), bad spark plugs, etc. This will give you a better idea of it's maintenance. One thing to watch out for: when a company tells you 4 years/75K miles, make sure it is from the date of purchase, not the in-service date of your Boxster. This is a very common issue and people find out they just spent $1500 only for an extra year. As for DIY maintenance you should be fine but keep ALL of your receipts, make photocopies (because the receipts will lose their ink after a few months), and make mileage notes. If you want to go the extra mile, take a picture of your receipt next to the mileage on your Boxster each time you perform a service just to lend some extra credibility to any claim you make.
  18. Same with my 02, they stay open a few inches. Like jmatta I would be opening them anyway so I typically open them all the way before I open the top-a little less wear on the motors.
  19. Mine rattled too. I ran a thin line of foam tape up the sides and trimmed it with a exacto knife. My rattle is now gone. I did however have the experience of losing my roll bar deflector insert on the right side. I moved my passenger seat back after getting a CD case and I guess it went back too far. When I got home that night the deflector was gone! I cant decide if I am going to replace it or not. Has anybody filled these in with a solid deflector? I am thinking of making a deflector that would be solid lexan/epoxy or perhaps have a logo in the middle of it.
  20. I had a similar experience where the 'boot cover/clamshell' (pardon my ignorance as to it's real name) was actually shuttering when it opened. When I looked closer I was surprised that the entire assembly (including the fasteners attaching it to the lift struts) is plastic! Those fasteners/clips are really loose with lots of play in these. So between that, the boot cover being plastic, and the runners/sliders for the top being plastic it most likely just wore a spot where it didn't slide smoothly anymore. You too many have a small spot worn somewhere along the runners. A little bit of grease (usable for plastic pieces) along those runners made my issue go away and I haven't heard it in about a month. I hope that what you are experiencing is as easy to take care of as mine was.
  21. I wouldn't worry about it either. If it were engine, transmission, suspension I would definitely look deeper into it. At this point the noise is just a minor annoyance and I would drive it until it breaks. However, it may not ever break and repairing it (most likely at a huge expense) wouldn't guarantee it won't be back in the near future. If anyone asks what the sound is, you could always just tell them it's the afterburner firing up! Then tell them how much safer you will be riding in your Boxster because you just filled up the red brake light fluid. :)
  22. Correct, it is in the HVAC system. Probably what you are hearing is the Blend Door Actuator or the vaccuum pressure building up in the lines pressing on the doors making them ready to direct air to the vents. You will hear this on most vehicles but it is louder on my Boxster than in most cars I've had.
  23. After searching through this awesome forum, it seems that Coolant Tank fractures are common in the Boxster. Fortunately mine has not broken yet but it seems inevitable. Thinking about this, I have a possible solution I'll throw out. 1. Has anyone ever tried repairing these with either a hardened epoxy or a semi-flexible epoxy? 2. Or has anyone ever covered the coolant tank with an epoxy to help provide longevity to it? As a hobby I am restoring an old mahogany runabout and have been using various types of epoxies. These are not your Home Depot/Lowes everyday super stong epoxies. These are actually made to be able to hold a sea-worthy boat together of up to 40 feet in length without screws. ( a smart builder however would still use screws.) Fiberglass is a sponge compared to this stuff. Needless to say it's nasty stuff to work with but some of them have a similar consistency to the ABS plastic used in automobiles and in particular the coolant tank. I was thinking that if the tank was already cracked, this could be applied and would most definately seal the crack forever. If not cracked it may be a good deterent to breakage. They can handle stress like you can't believe and are very heat resistant too. There are some that have zero flexibility (West Marine for example) and some that allow just a small amount of flex. Im not sure how much heat they can take but do know that before mixed and cured, the boiling points of these products are typically around 200 degrees which would make me think that cured they could withstand temperatures much much higher. I am not a chemist but have learned a lot about using this stuff and am very impressed. Anybody have any thoughts on this?
  24. I had a strong steady stream of coolant coming from the right rear wheelwell too and some on the top of the overflow bottle. After searching the forums found out that my problem was that the radiator cap wasn't on straight. My 60K service did not live up to its cost so far. Anyway, I bought new Porsche coolant and a new radiator cap even though I already had the updated one-didn't want to take any chances. Filled it up, put on the cap and haven't had this issue occur in the 2500 miles since.
  25. Radar jammers flat out don't work. Test after test proves that they are a waste of money, unless of course you are selling them. As for detectors, I have tried at least a dozen over the past 10 years. I always come back to the V1. I am now on my second-the first flew out the window on a hard turn in which my suction cups surrendered to the G's. Needless to say it didn't work so well after that and I threw it away. I tried a few others, Bel, Escort, Whistler and was fairly happy with the performance but missed the bogey count and directional controls of the V1. So about 1 year ago I threw down another $400 for a V1 and have been happy ever since. My only wish is that they would update their faceplate with larger alerts and provide more of a stealth mounted antenna. I am considering the K40 Calibre but am not certain it is worth $1000.00+.
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