Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Dennis Nicholls

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    166

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Dennis Nicholls

  1. Dennis Nicholls
    Mike, Two reasons. One. I was considering not changing the IMSB if it were a dual row bearing. You can't put a bearing back in once you've pulled it, since the puller stresses the inner race. Two. I don't like leaving the engine open for a week or two until I get the new IMSB installed. Too many dust storms etc. around Boise. I want to pull the original bearing only when I've got the new bearing sitting in the freezer ready to be installed. LN bearing on order today from the cheapest place I found, OEMBimmerparts.com for $577 shipped.
  2. Dennis Nicholls
    John, But you said in the quote I copied from 27 December 2013 that the 5MT and 6MT used the same lube. That PDF is dated 2000 so it's somewhat out of date. Both Suncoast and ECS Tuning sell the 999 917 546 00 lube for both kinds of manual transmissions. EDIT That PDF states that 999 917 546 00 is approved for manual transmissions, presumably both kinds. The PDF also says the Burmah stuff is NOT approved for the Boxster S transmission.
  3. Dennis Nicholls
    I have no idea what he is talking about; there is no difference between the S and non S manual gear box lubricants....................... :eek: I just got a confusing email from Sunset. I have a base 986 with 5MT, and requested a quote for qty. 3 of 1-liter bottles of 75W-90 Porsche gear oil, part # 999 917 564 00. Sunset told me that's ONLY for the 6MT. They said I should ONLY use Porsche part # 000 043 304 71 for my 5MT which ONLY comes in 20 liter containers for $$$$XXXX.
  4. Dennis Nicholls
    I pre-purchased the LN tools and all the misc. small parts, e.g. chain tensioner metal seals and O rings, and the cam end green plastic plugs. I could easily re-sell the tool kit whether or not I use it. It makes sense to pull the tensioners (one at a time), clean them with fresh oil, and reinstall them. OTOH if I end up selling the car, having an LN IMS bearing installed, with paperwork to prove it, should be a great selling point.
  5. Dennis Nicholls
    I went over and took a look at the LN websites....I didn't find any comparison photos. IIRC they have "pruned" their website recently. My problem is that I'm now at the stage of ordering an LN kit and if I order the wrong one it's not exchangeable. I'm just being careful. My engine serial # is 2265Y13700, and just the "Y" alone means it's most likely a dual row IMSB. Also....this is a fish-or-cut-bait moment. If I'd found a single row IMSB, the probability of failure P1 = 8% to 10% is unacceptable to me. But a dual row probability of failure P2 = 0.7% is much lower. There's a third probability P3 that I will screw up the installation. If P2 < P3 < P1, then I may be tempted to just change the RMS and clutch and call it a day. If P3 < P2 then I should proceed to change the IMSB. And for me P3 is unknown. I've followed with interest reports on this and other forums of dual row IMSB failures. They appear from this small sample size to be mostly a problem with the 3.2l "S" engine, not my base 2.7l engine. Even Jake Raby (in an unguarded moment I'm sure) made a comment that he seldom sees any problems with the 2.7l engine. What I found at 53K miles is a non-leaking RMS and IMS flange seal. I measured the thickness of my new vs. original clutch disc. New clutch disc 0.356 inches. Original clutch disc 0 346 inches I may be forgiven if I feel I've been "suckered" into pulling the tranny and flywheel on a wild goose chase.
  6. Dennis Nicholls
    Yes I've done that but I'm looking for verification. The ones posted on Pelican's site have part #s stamped onto them. Mine is plain. Looks like a dual row to me.
  7. Dennis Nicholls
    I bought a year 2000 986 because what I read online was that it was "sure" to have a dual row IMSB. Well I've been disabused of this notion - there are a random amount of MY 2000 with single row IMSBs, and the only way to find out is to pull the tranny and look. So I've done that. Shown are two photos. I think it's a dual row IMS flange but unlike the photo on Pelican there's no Porsche part number marked. Could experienced hands please verify the type of IMS flange this is?
  8. Dennis Nicholls
    I was able to get access to the real FSM, and on page 34-6 I found that there is "no reference" to a bolt at what Pelican calls location "G". Trusting the real FSM it appears the missing bolt is missing intentionally from the factory. Hey I'm doing better than the Porsche factory today. They couldn't get their car #20 to win at Le Mans, but I was able to get my tranny pulled for the IMS bearing job. The cheap HF tranny jack did yeoman service today.
  9. Dennis Nicholls
    I was mostly wondering if that missing bolt was an indication that the tranny had been pulled before for service. From all other indications I'm the first to pull the tranny on my car. I put a pencil down that hole and determined it's about 95 mm deep. Bentley says it's a 90mm long bolt and Pelican says it's a 70mm bolt. FYI the Neiko Tools set of triplesquare bits works fine for my car. The M10 bit is a very short socket and fits up to that furglisher triplesquare bolt head at "A". You can't get a ratchet in there but the bit has just enough of 10mm hex shoulder exposed to get a 10mm box wrench around it. The M16 bit is "tamper proof" so it can pull the tranny drain plug on the 5 speed.
  10. Dennis Nicholls
    I'm in the process of pulling my tranny for changing the IMSB/RMS. One of the bolts attaching the tranny to the engine is missing (2000 base 986 5MT). It's the one labeled "G" on the Pelican photo. Is this supposed to be missing from the factory? There was (just one) comment on another forum that the 986 is supposed to be missing this bolt.
  11. Dennis Nicholls
    Dumb question time: Does the engine compartment fan behind the passenger's side vent (US) suck cool outside air into the compartment, or does it blow out (exhaust) hot air from inside the engine compartment? I've got a boxer fan in the garage that could be used to help cool off the engine and I don't know which direction would be the most helpful. IIRC the owner's manual says to let the car idle for 2 minutes after driving but I doubt anyone does this.
  12. Dennis Nicholls
    All measurements were made with fully warmed up engine (driven 20+ miles). I'd thought that the deviation was mostly due to the wear on those plastic chain rail guides. I didn't realize that the tensioners would contribute this much. Not driving these cars seems to be a bad idea. The car sat on the dealer's lot for 7 months and probably only was driven from the front of the lot to the back of the lot for washing. The car runs so much more smoothly since I drove it about 2K miles since February.
  13. Dennis Nicholls
    Let me post the numbers first, and then add some background. 52,251 miles Cam Pos 1 -4.42 deg. Cam Pos 2 -4.25 deg. 52,998 miles Cam Pos 1 -4.05 deg. Cam Pos 2 -3.92 deg. My car had only been driven about 2K miles in the two years before my purchase (at 51,348 miles). I put in some fresh gas and a bottle of Techron. The dealer put in a fresh change of M1 0W-40 just prior to my purchase. The car ran a little bit rough at first. My thought was it needed to be driven and let the detergents in the gas and oil do their thing to unstick engine internals. So I drove it out onto the country roads at a good clip and almost always at least 40+ miles at a time. I checked the cam pos deviation when my Durametric first arrived, at both idle and 2K rpm. Same numbers (posted above). Last week John talked me into checking the calibration of my temp gauge using the Durametric. While I had it hooked up I checked the cam pos deviations again. To my surprise they had improved over the previous readings about 750 miles earlier. This is very odd. I would have thought that it would "all be downhill" with mileage. Have the detergents in the fresh oil, and the driving good distances with the engine hot, cleaned out some gum in the valve train? Is there any other reason that the cam pos deviations would get better with driving?
  14. Dennis Nicholls
    I've found that fresh coolant is a pretty good lubricant to slide the new rubber hoses into place. Every hose clamp is called out by part number in the PET. I'm not sure how to cross-reference part number to size. For me I prefer to use the spring clamps as opposed to the screw clamps whenever possible. Also in the rust-free western US hose clamps last "forever". I've run the AirLift with my very old 1HP 14 gallon tank compressor. I had to make two "passes" as the tank ran empty. It got to around "20" on the first pass, then close the valve, disconnect the supply hose, let the tank build up pressure again. The second pass easily got it up to the required "25". If you are old like me, it's how a carburetor works to suck in gas (petrol). It's also how a flute works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kl6R4Ui9blc
  15. Dennis Nicholls
    I have another idea.....use your flywheel! All you would need would be a plastic "ring" cut from that plastic pipe fitting of a carefully calculated thickness. Start the RMS, put on the plastic ring, then start the flywheel with four of the old used bolts. When the bolts are tight, remove them, the flywheel, and the plastic ring. Then remount the flywheel with your set of new bolts.
  16. Dennis Nicholls
    The performance shop Flyin' Miata makes a RMS tool for $27. So that price point is reasonable. https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5681&parentid=0&stocknumber=35-60500 Their design is somewhat different and doesn't use a hammer.
  17. Dennis Nicholls
    Hmmm.....I took my new RMS out of the box and out of the plastic bag for inspection....with my bare hands. Do I have to throw it away and order a new one? Or can I clean it somehow?
  18. Dennis Nicholls
    The weather warmed up so I was able to take a second reading of engine temperature. After a 60 mile jaunt I was able to hook up the Durametric and discovered that when the needle was at the left edge of the "0" in "180" the engine temperature was 96* C = 204* F. Summary: Needle reading "180" is nominally accurate at 180* F. Needle reading left edge of "0" (midway between two marks) is about 204* F. I think I got lucky and got a more-or-less accurate temp gauge. I would guesstimate that cleaning the radiators lowered operating temperatures by about 8* - 10* F.
  19. Dennis Nicholls
    The whole placement of the Porsche thermostat confuses me. Rather than on the OUTLET hose, like most cars, it's on the INLET hose. Thus it's surrounded by cooler coolant coming back from the radiators. It would seem the thermostat would not be open in proportion to the temperature of the coolant leaving the engine.
  20. Dennis Nicholls
    I bought a 2 foot vacuum crevice tool and got a lot out from the front, but that was only the tip of the iceberg with respect to the bugs/leaves/feathers/dirt in the radiator. The photo shows the AC condenser hung out on a wire, and after taking off the bulk of the crud with a soft plastic brush and shop vac. After the photo I brought in a large plastic tub and the garden hose and blasted out the remaining crud. You need to remove the bumper cover and the plastic wheel well liners. Expect to break a few of those plastic rivets getting the wheel well liners off. Mine's a 986 but the 996 should be similar.
  21. Dennis Nicholls
    I took the car out and drove it another 10 miles. Didn't need to drive it so much as it was already warmed up. I unplugged and reseated the connection between the basic Durametric cable and the extension cable a couple of times. I then ran it again. I might have read the engine temp and oil temp upside down the first time. This time when the engine temp was 87.0* C, the oil temp was 90.8* C. That's more like it. Also funny was that I had just erased any trouble codes. This time I went and checked the monitor program "ready" status. It showed a "pass" on all 5 monitor programs. It would require a "drive cycle" to make all the monitors come ready and I doubt driving just 10 miles with a hot car would do so. This again makes me think the two P codes were spurious. I am running software version 6.3.2.5 which according to the website is the current version.
  22. Dennis Nicholls
    Well I used my Durametric to check the engine temperature just now. I let the car sit until the gauge's needle was on the mark for 180. Durametric reading at that point was 82.5* C (= 180.5* F). That sounds right on the mark. The oil temperature reading tracked the engine temperature a few degrees lower. But sometimes my Durametric acts funny. It also turned up a P0300 and P0306 pair of codes. Normally these are the highest-priority codes and not only light the MIL but flash the MIL. My MIL only comes on at startup so I know the bulb isn't burned out. And I passed ID smog a few weeks ago where they check the "monitor program" status and passed with all monitors completed. Perhaps my Durametric doesn't like running over the long 50' cable but it is THEIR cable that I paid a small fortune for. Maybe I should hunt up a long USB cable like John suggested.
  23. Dennis Nicholls
    This is a modern trend. After 1994 Mazda put in their Miatas an oil pressure "gauge" that only indicates two positions: zero and "some" oil pressure, driven by a switch that toggles at 7 psi. At least racing heritage Porsche puts in a real oil pressure.....hey wait a minute. Porsche puts the key to the left of the steering wheel to celebrate their racing heritage at Le Mans but deletes the oil pressure gauge.
  24. Dennis Nicholls
    When buying my car from a dealer, I discovered it only had one key. I made them supplying a second key part of the negotiations. For them the cost was minimal so they didn't push back much on that issue.
  25. Dennis Nicholls
    Well that's no good. According to Dempsey, a 50/50 mix of OEM coolant with an OEM cap should boil at 255* F. I know you should stay well away from the actual boiling point as bubbles of steam will appear well below that point and they are highly corrosive. I'll have to hook up my Durametric next time I come in from a run. By the way cleaning the radiators is a pain, but I sure removed a lot of junk in there.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.