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Dennis Nicholls

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Everything posted by Dennis Nicholls

  1. The coolant temperature gauge has some markings with numbers but others without numbers. Between the marks labeled 180 and 250 there is another unlabeled mark. Is the Porsche gauge linear - which would make this middle mark at 215* F? The spec. for an OEM thermostat is 83* C which is 181.4* F. After spending the day cleaning my radiators, my car now fairly quickly heats up to the 180 mark then levels off, going higher only with demands on the engine (e.g. hill climb). This sounds like my cooling system is working properly. Oddly enough, Wayne Dempsey in his book "101 Projects....Boxster" says the OEM thermostat starts to open at 187* F and is fully open at 210* F. This doesn't sound right to me. His own Pelican Parts says the OEM thermostat is nominally rated 83* C.
  2. I used the Coughlan's WBSS....it works. There aren't any leaks around the rear window now. But I must caution the reader that it's not an easy application. You can't draw the applicator like a brush, but rather must "daub" each portion of the seam. This makes a ragged and unsightly line. I came back a second time and this time I used masking tape to try to ensure an even line. This was only partially successful.
  3. Hmmm.....it turns out that the AirLift can give you false confidence. I took the car out for a 40+ mile shakedown. When I returned it was leaking coolant and down about 2.5 cups in the reservoir. Turns out that I had neglected to tighten down the screw clamp on the "green arrow" hose. Fortunately the plastic undertrays make it obvious which connection is leaking. Unfortunately it took 2 hours to get the car up on jackstands, pull and clean the undertrays, then tighten the screw clamp. The AirLift held a vacuum for 4+ minutes. I'm guessing that hoses make a better seal under vacuum than they do on over-pressure.
  4. The kitty in my icon is named Duke for John Wayne. I also have a black female named Condoleezza.
  5. I got those four hoses installed yesterday. I'm still sore....ever since turning 60 it's been more effort to crawl under a car to work on it. The hoses I removed didn't appear to be in all that bad a shape on the insides. But I figure all will need replacing someday. The AirLift worked as advertised. My small air compressor (14 gal. tank) had to take two passes to get to 25 in. Hg but it got there quickly enough. After 4 minutes with no change on the dial I let it suck in the coolant. Pretty slick operation.
  6. Back when I was rebuilding BMC "A" engines I had a handful of scrap cams to play with. They really would ring like a bell so I made a wind chime out of them. The test for a cracked crank was to hang it on a string and hit it with a hammer. If it rang it was OK, if the sound was muffled it was cracked.
  7. This was my concern...perhaps needing subsequent re-torqueing. Charles has been kind enough to supply me with a conforming part, so all is now good in my particular situation. It appears that LN goes to lengths to make customers happy.
  8. I've discovered a source for my confusion in the original post. It's in Dempsey's book "101 Projects...Boxster" on page 117, in the notes for Fig. 2. There he states the "green arrow" hose is the RETURN hose from the radiators. If you have this book you may wish to pencil in a correction.
  9. IIUC the clutch disc for the 5 speed vs. the 6 speed has a different number of splines.
  10. "Roadie" is American slang for technicians who follow around rock groups setting up the sound equipment and light shows. They hope to get the excess girls that the rock stars don't have time for.
  11. In the meantime I've found another Airlift demo video for Boxsters. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQnfUe6P5VI
  12. Here's my idea. Take a 27mm 6 point socket, and place three layers of electrical tape down the flats. This then becomes a "press fit" onto the machined hex "nut" of the LN adapter. There's no slop and the fit is tight.
  13. Unfortunately this problem may have been going around for some time. I'd guess most owners pay someone to install it for them. JFP uses an alternate installation tool. Who knows what Gordon24's shop used - maybe he should inquire. Most home mechanics probably just do what RD996 did and scrounge around in the toolbox for the next larger size socket.
  14. I've been thinking it over. My thought now is to wrap the "nut" on the adapter with turns of electrical tape until it is a snug fit on the oversize socket. After installing, remove the tape. Any debris from this would be on the input side of the filter so they wouldn't go anywhere. With only 18 ft.-lbs. required this may get the job done without damage to the adapter. EDIT Even better. On an oversize 6 point socket, put the tape down each internal flat side until the required snug fit is achieved.
  15. Charles at LNE was apologetic about this and sent me a replacement unit. However the replacement unit had the same spacing across the flats: a little over 26.5 mm. Best fit among the sockets at Lowes was a 1-1/16" 6 point deep impact socket. Even their 26 mm 12 point chrome deep socket wouldn't fit over the adapter nut. JFP, you probably install these adapters regularly. Have you seen this problem crop up? Part number on the box is # 10601. It would appear that all recent production of the unit has this issue. Unless Charles has a better idea, I'll ship him his replacement back and install mine with the 1-1/16" socket. It only goes on to 18 ft-lbs. so it shouldn't distort the "nut" very much.
  16. This "flushing" is boiling them out in a pan of Marvel Mystery Oil, right? I'm waiting for warm weather so the rest of the car is warm compared to the IMSB from the freezer.
  17. I found it uses the smallest adapter: the knurled knob really expands the fit. For a Boxster see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQnfUe6P5VI for use. There's also another YouTube on Pedro's site.
  18. I just picked up a UView Airlift....which of the 3 rubber adapters do you use? The smallest one is a loose fit and the middle one looks too big.
  19. Let me tag onto this thread, although my application is for a 986. JFP had a nice tutorial photo of using a plastic pipe coupler to install a new Teflon (PTFE) RMS. Unfortunately this was in the "parts wanted" part of the forum and has since been deleted. This is the new RMS which I have received. The part number appears to be the latest rev. I presume the blue plastic ring is a tool for installation only. It has a small flange at the bottom. I presume the blue plastic ring centers itself on the crankshaft flange to help the actual seal slide onto the crankshaft end without damage. The blue plastic ring then falls off and can be discarded. In the other thread JFP mentioned using a CPVC coupler instead (chlorinated PVC). PVC and CPVC are different and may have different sized couplers - which to use? All I can find here so far in 4" OD sizes are for black sewer ABS. Please see the following photo - is the fit appropriate? I guess the main concern will be whether the "ridge" in the center is the right size for the old, discarded flywheel bolts to engage when cranking down the new RMS. Last of all, it appears that the new style RMS is intended to be put in "dry". No Curil T on the outside, and no oil on the contact side (where the seal rubs on the crankshaft). Please comment on this. Sorry to beat a dead horse but almost all threads on installing a new RMS (here or even via Google) discuss the old-style obsolete RMS.
  20. So basically just a drop or two after torqueing the nut, placed on the threads just outside the nut. Hey I got my hammer. HF sale for $9 with a 25% off coupon, net price $6.75. The LN tool kit is on order, paid $240 shipped.
  21. Unfortunately the instructions must be applicable for both 911 and Boxster variants. You can't say "the driver's side of the motor" as that will be bank 2 of a US spec Boxster but bank 1 of a US spec 911. If LN said "lock bank 1", then they would have to explain to a novice exactly what "bank 1" refers to . I've been pulling my hair trying to figure this out myself, and have been working up an "expanded" version of the LN instructions. Bank 1 (cylinders 1,2,3) has the cam chain tensioner at the bottom, near the flywheel. Bank 2 (cylinders 4,5,6) has the cam chain tensioner under the AC compressor, near the "front" of the motor (serpentine belt pulley side). The other tensioner you indicate is for the chain between the crankshaft and the IMS. You lock the bank 1 cams at the "front" of the motor (serp belt pulley side) even though the corresponding bank 1 cam chain tensioner is at the back of the motor, near the flywheel. What's your year? Is it 5 chain or 3 chain?
  22. I've always been leery of green Loctite. It is supposed to be almost impossible to get two parts separated when jointed with green Loctite. If you ever had to go back into the IMS.....could it be disassembled?
  23. Thanks. HF 3 lb. is $10, and has a striking face diameter of 2-2/5" = 2.4" or about 61 mm. The IMS bearing OD is 47 mm so it should more than cover the insertion tool's face. It's amazing how many loose ends there are in preparing for an IMS bearing service. Since I have a 2000 I'll still have to pull-and-inspect prior to ordering the darned bearing anyway. The green wicking Loctite is #290, right?
  24. The LN instructions for the IMS bearing install say to "use a Snap-On dead blow (red, plasticized hammer)." But there are many such hammers in the Snap-On catalog. Is there a suggested weight that is best? The Harbor Freight store sells orange plastic dead blow hammers in 1 lb,, 2 lb., 2.5 lb., 3 lb., 4 lb. sizes. Since I have to go buy one, it may as well be of the recommended weight value.
  25. I chose the Blackhawk tool because it's a 6 point impact-rated socket. I've found that impact sockets tend to be a closer fit to the nominal size than regular chrome plated sockets.
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